Jump to content

Hi Torque Starter Motor RAC401 in Spitfire 1500 - Retain the spacer?


Mike Bicknell
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello,

 

Purchased a PowerLite Hi Torque Starter Motor from Rimmers.

 

They shipped the RAC401, PowerLite list the RAC414 for the Spitfire. eBay sellers also list the RAC414. Our Club Shop lists the RAC401.

 

Rimmers inform me they've been shipping the RAC401 for Spitfires since 2010 with no problems. Stating that the RAC414 is for the Dolomite/TR7.

 

Asked if I should retain the spacer between the motor and the engine, Rimmers thought not. The Moss parts book also advises removing the spacer.

 

Just tried it and the starter doesn't disengage when the motor starts  :unsure:

 

My obvious next step is to fit the new starter with the spacer, but first wanted to check if anyone else had a similar experience and can confirm the RAC401 is the right motor and I do need the spacer?

 

Thanks,

 

Mike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike,

You do need to retain the spacer to make the Hi Torque starter engage correctly. Sometimes there are some shims fitted as well, in that case I always advise that you measure the relative throw from the mounting face and see if you need the shims. Rimmers were 100% incorrect to tell you that you did not need the spacer! As for the different part numbers, I have been dealing with powerlite for over twelve years, both while I was at Rimmers and also while managing the club shop. RAC401 is the correct one for Heralds, Spitfires,Toledos and Dolomites fitted with 948/1147/1296 and 1500 engines. The main difference between the model numbers is the angle the mounting plate is fitted to the motor body to make it easier to fit. I have had the same RAC 401 fitted to a Dolomite 1500, GT6 MKIII, Herald 1200 and a Herald 13/60 and it is still going strong eleven years later, so as you can see the part number is not quite as important as some suppliers would make out, it is just more difficult to fit on the six cylinder applications in this guise as the terminals are against the block because the starter is on the other side compared to the 4 cylinder engines.

It only starts getting important which one you fit when you stray away from the Herald/Vitesse/Spitfire/GT6/Bond range and start looking at Stags, TR's and Dolomites with OHC engines. I hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Firstly, thanks so much for the really quick replies and advice.

 

Re-fitted the new starter last night with the spacer and fired up as expected. Actually weird to hear a modern starter and then a classic motor! 

 

Wanted one of these for years and when my third recon starter failed after 3 years moderate use it was time to invest.

 

Thanks again,

 

Mike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello All

             I am thinking of fitting one of these type of starters to my 1500 Spitfire.

 

I have been looking on the web at the pros and cons and prices(of course)

 

On one of the triumph club sites it is stated that this one fits? anybody know if this is true?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STARTER-MOTOR-ISUZU-TROOPER-2-3-1985-1988-LRS02036-/310970914595?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item48674f9723

 

Roger

 

ps I may still buy one from the club shop for delivery to Stoneleigh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most of the Hi-torque motors will fit, provided the mounting plate is for a Spitfire… so many of them come with the proviso that you’re intending to swap the mounting plate over. I don’t know if the Isuzu Trooper one is a straight fit, but I’d prefer to buy one that I’m sure will fit from the word go, to avoid disappointment especially if you don’t have the proper plate to begin with….

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fitment was straightforward, especially as I practiced without the spacer first time!

 

When my third starter motor in 10 years, just 20,000 miles, started to give problems I thought it was time to fit a product that would last a few years.

 

I put a bigger battery in 5 years and have never had problems actually starting since, just the issues with starters not disengaging quickly despite taking out cleaning and dusting with graphite powder.

 

I know some folks like to keep the cars original, but I tend to upgrade if I can for reliability and safety factors each time a component fails. 

 

Mike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello All

             I decided to fit one of these starters, so I popped up to the factory to have a look(they are only about 5miles from me)

 

I like the look of the RAC801 and RAC802 but they are about £60 more?

 

So I settled for the RAC401.

 

Now when I came to fit it I did some carefull measuring and came to the conclusion using the spacer as fitted to the car the teeth would only be about half in mesh?

 

So I found another spacer I had with a spare engine and this one was only 7mm thick (original 10mm?)

 

So I used this one and started the engine a few times then removed the starter to see the marking on the teeth to check meshing.

 

This photo shows what I found and it looks good and I think it is as near as no matter full mesh across the starter ring and about 3mm clear when not engaged.

 

It does not sound as bad as my brother in laws TR6!

 

 

post-44-0-14494800-1423771325_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hello All

             I have been looking at my new starter set up and decided to see how many amps are need to pull the soleniod in (at the moment I have it wired through the starter sol ) so disconnected the small lead and put a shunt and amp meter in circuit and to my suprise it pulls about 40/45amps.

 

So if you wired it through your ignition switch it would fry.

 

Looked at the wiring diagram of our modern ford fusion they use a relay for the sol and 30amp fuse!

 

So be careful how you wire these type of starters(I shall stick to the standard set up, in fact I have purchased a spare soleniod to carry as a spare as they only cost £10)

 

Roger

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have just used the original starter cable and solenoid, nothing extra has ever been required

just a straight swap

you should have with the kit a short link to power the Ht solenoid from the battery feed terminal

And you need to check the current of the old bendix or pre engage unit

you are looking at 100, s and much more

 

 

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Pete

                That is how I fitted mine but I was curious as they say they can be run through the ignition switch for the sol side with the main cable direct to the battery if replacing a pre engage type but it would still need a relay, not as big as the ones fitted to our cars.

 

So I think this information is incorrect?

 

Roger

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok I see where youre coming from , I would agree the old ign switch would struggle to power the piggy back Ht solenoid load but on most the orig starter sol is run direct from the ign switch crank position and should be / could used to incorporate and run the Htorque and it solenoid ..

 

down to preferance

I was always going to fit a push button,,, more nostalgia but sold the Vit6

 

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello All

            I tested the power needed to operate a standard soleniod today(new) it was 4.5 to 5 amps which is about what I would expect so no real strain on the ignition switch.

 

I hope all the above may save some one burning out their ignition switch

 

Roger

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...