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Draining the brake system on a vitesse


Robin
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Is there a correct way to drain all of the brake fluid out of the system? I need to remove the brake master cylinder anyway so I thought I may as well drain the fluid as it hasn’t been changed for a while. Is it simply a question of undoing all of the bleed nipples and pressing the brake pedal until no more fluid comes out? 

Thanks

Robin

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I think draining may be a little difficult in so far as it never all comes out!

Undo one bleed nipple - probably off side rear - and pump the breaks and some will come out - but once the master cylinder is empty that is pretty much all that you will get out. 

Then change the master cylinder and add more fluid and bled. Farthest to nearest to the master cylinder. And go round at least twice to make sure all the old fluid is out as well as the air. 

Mind you, if you intend to go silicon then I’d change the pipework calipers and rear cylinders first. 

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Mark's right, you don't usually drain, just replace. Use fresh fluid to push the old stuff out, but if you're emptying the master cylinder don't refill it, just let it empty out.

Once the new one is replaced then just refill and pump out of each corner - as Mark says, start with the one furthest away and work closer to the master cylinder until it all looks bubble free and clean.

I'd avoid silicon fluid unless you're intending a rebuild of the entire system with new components.

 

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Robin.

In addition to the above:

One tip I will add is that it is worth jamming the brake pedal down fully after you have completed the bleeding process. This keeps max pressure in the system and helps to dispel any final air bubbles over night or at least 12hrs.

I normally use a piece of wood to keep the pedal jammed down and in addition if there is a problem with the tightness of the system it will soon become obvious.

Good luck.

Richard. 

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I agree but to ensure I replaced all my fluid I have an oil syringe that I use to get all the old fluid out of the m/c  The remainder oin the pipes is removed as part of the bleeding process

https://www.screwfix.com/p/handy-parts-hp-162-oil-change-kit-1ltr/27283?tc=FT4&ds_kid=92700024374056971&ds_rl=1249481&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1q3VBRCFARIsAPHJXrF73u4YMaZj5pcKI3DySzpdMAstZrgwJeHVoALFKwQYIk9B6oYabogaArddEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CN_Gx6ms8NkCFc63GwodDXAORQ

Audan

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Robin, yes do you want to drain for a particular reason or just change the fluid  (recomended every two years)If  you realy want to drain , then the  only way to drain the calipers is take them off and up turn them.

Otherwise as all have said  refill with new to flush the old out ,

While mcyl is off make sure the pedal pivots are free and well oiled

Pete

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I don't see how the fluid isn't changed as part of the normal bleeding process as the reservoir is at the top of the m/c? And if you expel it like has been suggested, there will be little fluid it in and again bleeding will remove the rest. And anyway Robin is removing the m/c so is a mute point in this case!

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Just flushing the sysytem with new works well at replacing old fluid, whats not so easy is making sure you fully swirl the new through the caliper as the bleed outlet is above the stored capacity of the pistons, , the new can flloat on top of the old

some good vigorous  workout with the right foot should disturb the old with success till the new clean starts to appear.

 

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I replaced the braking system on mine - but on my previous modern I had to replace the M/C and used the onboard diagnostics system with a tool to close each line as each corner was bleed  and it then operates the ABS to give a good pump out! - the fluid seemed to change ok and came out clean. I can't remember if the in is at the bottom and bleed at the top as I did it a couple of years ago.

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