Guest Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Hello. Checking the car over the other day, I gave the steering wheel a pull towards me whilst sitting in the drivers seat and felt the column suddenly give & move towards me. Holding the steering wheel I can move it back & forth with about an inch of movement. Looking at the column, from within the engine bay, as it runs down to the rack I can hold the column and repeat the movement. Prior to my tug on the steering wheel, all was well and have to say the steering seems to operate without a problem; although needless to say I am a tad concerned !! What is the likely problem ?? Any opinions & advice will be more than welcome. Car: 1971 Triumph Vitesse Mk2 CV Many thanks in advance. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Sounds like the pinch bolt (one or the other) on the steering coupling needs tightening. A bit of a fiddle to get in there, but once in there it is OK. The coupling is literally attached to the steering rack. If the coupling itself is an issue, I would suggest getting a solid UJ version (but yours sounds like it just needs tightening) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Hello Clive. That's very useful info & many thanks. Good timing as the car is fully raised on mobile axle stands at the moment so hope that will assist with the access. Do I need to push the steering wheel as far forward to the engine before tightening or should it be somewhere in-between ?? Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 There is also the colapsible slide clamp just below the tube, this is designed to shorten on impact it can also lengthen , the simple proceedure to nip up the allen key bolt and locknut is to make it grip ut not be ridgid, the saddle clamps on the outer tube can also be loose allows up and down shift alway keep a gap between switch cowl and handwheel or the horn will toot on corners pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Thanks Peter - all noted. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Reason I suspect the bottom joint is that the column is moving in the engine bay from the description. And yes, push the wheel down, you ay need to just pull it back a little if it is scraping on the cowl though. Access is from above, between engine and suspension tower. And at an odd angle. Hence tricky... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 6, 2015 Report Share Posted February 6, 2015 Fitted a modern uj to the Vit6 makes another good upgrade for just a few ££ can be a bit tight under the turret , but did have to jockey between the 631 the column , rack postion far more direct than the old flexi disc and bushes pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Direct as regards vibration too… no rubber sandwich in the joint. I had one a few years ago but got rid of it fairly quickly; all of the road noise came straight to my hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 26, 2015 Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 Hello Folks. Finally got around trying to sort the steering column problem and not a lot of success, so far :-( I identified the lower pinch bolt area and tried to tighten the 2x sets of nut & bolts but have to say there was no give at all and found to be fully tight. Have taken a few pictures, attached to show the area I'm working on. Checking the steering shaft movement again (probably about 10mm movement) it is most definitely moving as it reaches the steering wheel end pinch bolt location (picture with spanners in place); but there is NO movement on the other side. Of interest there are two other bolts but with slotted heads and wire going through these bolts which you can see on one of the photos (jpeg 4 photo) - I have not tried anything with these yet. So what is the next stage, please ?? Any advice much appreciated. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted July 26, 2015 Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 So the shaft is moving and the joint is fully tight? I would be removing the bolt and checking it is not "bottoming out" on the unthreaded section, a washer may sort that? Best not undo the wire-tied bolts, at least not until you have to either change or recon that joint. If the pinch bolt will not tighten up enough, it may be time to change the joint. Unusual though to fail like this. I know some do not like the solid UJ replacements but they really are excellent, I have used them for years. However, IF your joint splines will tighten up and grip, but you later find the rubbers in the joint are shot, you are lucky enough to have a rebuildable joint. For similar cost to a new one you can fit polybushs that will outlast modern rubber by about 100 times. ie new rubbers in joints routinely last under a year of use. I fitted polybushes to one 20 years ago, did massive mileages in the car (vitesse CV!) then the joint went onto my herald estate, and as far as I know is still in use. Most joints are not easily rebuildable, and so I changed to the solid UJ's and have no hesitation recommending them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 26, 2015 Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 No help! Nothing to add but, what excellent photos! They could be in an art exhibition. What camera do you have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 26, 2015 Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 Thanks Doug, much appreciated. Nothing over the top. It's my trusty Sony Cyber-shot (7.2 mega pixel) which I have used for many years and I cannot fault it. These photos were taken with the built-in Macro facility, hence the detail. Of course this forum uses an excellent upload photo facility which makes transferring the photos a doddle and in the long run benefits others. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 26, 2015 Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 Hello Clive. Thanks for the info. So I guess my first move is to remove that bolt as you suggest. Is it worth doing the other bolt or "do not mend unless it's broke" scenario ?? !! As you know (1st thread) this merely came about due to pulling the steering wheel towards me to ensure all okay !! Hopefully I have not caused the joint any additional wear as I have done over a 1000 miles in the car since it occurred. Best wishes. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 26, 2015 Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 Richard, I mean it! The shiny spanner, the rusty bolts, the light and shade. That's art that is! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 26, 2015 Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 There is a anular groove in the splines to make it locate the bolt.. the intention being to stop too much shaft shift if it comes loose, There is normally a wire on eyelets to bridge the coupling insulation for earthing the horn (Not the lock wire you see) if it was just the upper column then its the collapsible slide is too loose , this can be undone and extend or drop the wheel height, have to move the outer column to match. just something else to play with make sure when the boss pulls the wheel its not the fabric/rubber disc thats not moving, there are some cheap plates across the disc bolts to control lift and fail save should the disc collapse more fun pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 26, 2015 Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 Result !!!!!! Clive you have just booked yourself a pint @ The Laughing Fish at the next area meeting !! The washer has done the trick and all back to normal. In essence a simple job of unbolting & re-bolting............................................................but in reality a pig of a job !! I'm not sure I will be able to stand up straight for another couple of hours, at least !! I do not think Triumph could have made it more difficult to access that nut if tried. On a more serious note, it is probably useful to remove the engine bay side cover. Additionally for anybody who needs to do this in the future the nut & bolt is 1/2". Finally ensure the vehicle is raised and supported on axle stands, NOT RAMPS, as you will need to move the wheels back & forth a tad to get the best angle for getting a spanner on the nut & bolt. No chance on ramps. Did not touch the other nut & bolt as al sound. Thanks to everyone for their advice and comments. Appreciated as always. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Glad it was a "simple" if faffy fix! Yep, access looks of, until you need to get your hands in there, let alone a pair of spanners. (note, spanner size 1/2", bolt is 5/16 UNF) Won't be at the next meeting, away for our silver anniversary (crikey, I don't look old enough) though should be at Septembers meet. Doing a brief track session at 6-7pm at Brands beforehand, but hope to be there by 8 on the way home. As long as nothing falls off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Okay Clive. Will keep it in the barrel !! Congratulations & enjoy. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Brilliant, next thing on the wish list is a very long flexible extention bar On mine with a6.3.1 in the way it was I right faf from undrneath, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jezza Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 A good read, this. I have the same issue and think the problem may be the same and might have been caused by me removing the nut in order to fit the horn earth strap. When I tried to refit the nut the plastic locking ring on the inside of the nut seemed to fail and it meant the nut was rotating but the inner plastic locking ring wasn't moving so a replacement is due. It fixed my non-functional horn though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 Hello Jezza. If you are talking about the nuts / bolts shown in the photos which is directly under the suspension housing, then the ones on my car where normal nuts not the Nyloc type. I cannot be 100% certain but I would have thought Nyloc's would not have been used for this. No doubt somebody will be able to confirm for sure. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jezza Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 If you are talking about the nuts / bolts shown in the photos which is directly under the suspension housing Hi Richard, yes the same ones (where the steering column connects with the steering rack). It could be that the garage that replaced the steering column / rack joint did so with nyloc nuts.. I need to get in closer to have a look and assess what's what but my suspicion is that this nut needs replacing and possibly a washer added (as discussed above). Before I added the horn earth strap the steering column had no adverse movement, but the horn only worked intermittently.. as with most things you fix one problem only to cause another! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 Jezza. I think you are correct in what you say regarding the washer - should do the job. Especially as the steering was fine before trying to fix the horn earth strap. Personally, I would use a non Nyloc and go for the standard nut with a split washer. You then have the best of both worlds: bite + nut security. Just a thought. Regards. Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willis Posted September 22, 2017 Report Share Posted September 22, 2017 Hello everyone, I don't suppose anybody has any pictures of how the steering column on a Vitesse mk2 convertible is mounted? i've put it in place but there is a certain bracket that if I line it up, the outer column cover moves up too far and i can't get the steering wheel on. Wish I had a photographic memory. Thanks for any help you can give. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 22, 2017 Report Share Posted September 22, 2017 That sounds like the inner column collapsible slip joint is setting the inner shaft too low/short ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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