Jump to content

STEERING COLUMN MOVEMENT


Guest
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello.

 

Checking the car over the other day, I gave the steering wheel a pull towards me whilst sitting in the drivers seat and felt the column suddenly give & move towards me.

 

Holding the steering wheel I can move it back & forth with about an inch of movement.

 

Looking at the column, from within the engine bay, as it runs down to the rack I can hold the column and repeat the movement.

 

Prior to my tug on the steering wheel, all was well and have to say the steering seems to operate without a problem; although needless to say I am a tad concerned !!

 

What is the likely problem ?? 

 

Any opinions & advice will be more than welcome.

 

Car: 1971 Triumph Vitesse Mk2 CV

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

Richard.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like the pinch bolt (one or the other) on the steering coupling needs tightening. A bit of a fiddle to get in there, but once in there it is OK. The coupling is literally attached to the steering rack. If the coupling itself is an issue, I would suggest getting a solid UJ version (but yours sounds like it just needs tightening)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Clive.

 

That's very useful info & many thanks.

 

Good timing as the car is fully raised on mobile axle stands at the moment so hope that will assist with the access.

 

Do I need to push the steering wheel as far forward to the engine before tightening or should it be somewhere in-between ??

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is also the colapsible slide clamp just below the tube, this is designed to shorten on impact

it can also lengthen , the simple proceedure to nip up the allen key bolt and locknut is

to make it grip ut not be ridgid,

 

the saddle clamps on the outer tube can also be loose allows up and down shift

 

alway keep a gap between switch cowl and handwheel or the horn will toot on corners

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Reason I suspect the bottom joint is that the column is moving in the engine bay from the description. And yes, push the wheel down, you ay need to just pull it back a little if it is scraping on the cowl though.

Access is from above, between engine and suspension tower. And at an odd angle. Hence tricky...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

Hello Folks.

 

Finally got around trying to sort the steering column problem and not a lot of success, so far :-(

 

I identified the lower pinch bolt area and tried to tighten the 2x sets of nut & bolts but have to say there was no give at all and found to be fully tight.

 

Have taken a few pictures, attached to show the area I'm working on.

 

Checking the steering shaft movement again (probably about 10mm movement) it is most definitely moving as it reaches the steering wheel end pinch bolt location (picture with spanners in place); but there is NO movement on the other side. 

 

Of interest there are two other bolts but with slotted heads and wire going through these bolts which you can see on one of the photos (jpeg 4 photo)  - I have not tried anything with these yet.

 

So what is the next stage, please ?? 

 

Any advice much appreciated.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

 

 

post-818-0-35056900-1437921192_thumb.jpg

post-818-0-30038200-1437921232_thumb.jpg

post-818-0-94683700-1437921260_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the shaft is moving and the joint is fully tight? I would be removing the bolt and checking it is not "bottoming out" on the unthreaded section, a washer may sort that?

 

Best not undo the wire-tied bolts, at least not until you have to either change or recon that joint.

 

If the pinch bolt will not tighten up enough, it may be time to change the joint. Unusual though to fail like this.

 

I know some do not like the solid UJ replacements but they really are excellent, I have used them for years. However, IF your joint splines will tighten up and grip, but you later find the rubbers in the joint are shot, you are lucky enough to have a rebuildable joint. For similar cost to a new one you can fit polybushs that will outlast modern rubber by about 100 times. ie new rubbers in joints routinely last under a year of use. I fitted polybushes to one 20 years ago, did massive mileages in the car (vitesse CV!) then the joint went onto my herald estate, and as far as I know is still in use. Most joints are not easily rebuildable, and so I changed to the solid UJ's and have no hesitation recommending them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Doug, much appreciated.

 

Nothing over the top.

 

It's my trusty Sony Cyber-shot (7.2 mega pixel) which I have used for many years and I cannot fault it. These photos were taken with the built-in Macro facility, hence the detail.

 

Of course this forum uses an excellent upload photo facility which makes transferring the photos a doddle and in the long run benefits others.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Clive.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

So I guess my first move is to remove that bolt as you suggest. Is it worth doing the other bolt or "do not mend unless it's broke" scenario ?? !!

 

As you know (1st thread) this merely came about due to pulling the steering wheel towards me to ensure all okay !!

 

Hopefully I have not caused the joint any additional wear as I have done over a 1000 miles in the car since it occurred.

 

Best wishes.

 

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a anular groove in the splines to make it locate the bolt..

the intention being to stop too much shaft shift if it comes loose,

 

There is normally a wire on eyelets to bridge the coupling insulation for earthing the horn

(Not the lock wire you see)

if it was just the upper column then its the collapsible slide is too loose , this can be undone and extend or drop the wheel height, have to move the outer column to match.

 

just something else to play with

 

make sure when the boss pulls the wheel its not the fabric/rubber disc thats not moving, there are some cheap plates across the disc bolts to control lift and fail save should the disc collapse

 

 

more fun

 

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Result !!!!!!

 

Clive you have just booked yourself a pint @ The Laughing Fish at the next area meeting !!

 

The washer has done the trick and all back to normal.

 

In essence a simple job of unbolting & re-bolting............................................................but in reality a pig of a job !!

 

I'm not sure I will be able to stand up straight for another couple of hours, at least !! I do not think Triumph could have made it more difficult to access that nut if tried.

 

On a more serious note, it is probably useful to remove the engine bay side cover.

 

Additionally for anybody who needs to do this in the future the nut & bolt is 1/2".

 

Finally ensure the vehicle is raised and supported on axle stands, NOT RAMPS, as you will need to move the wheels back & forth a tad to get the best angle for getting a spanner on the nut & bolt. No chance on ramps.

 

Did not touch the other nut & bolt as al sound.

 

Thanks to everyone for their advice and comments.

 

Appreciated as always.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad it was a "simple" if faffy fix!

Yep, access looks of, until you need to get your hands in there, let alone a pair of spanners. (note, spanner size 1/2", bolt is 5/16 UNF)

 

Won't be at the next meeting, away for our silver anniversary (crikey, I don't look old enough) though should be at Septembers meet. Doing a brief track session at 6-7pm at Brands beforehand, but hope to be there by 8 on the way home. As long as nothing falls off!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

A good read, this.  I have the same issue and think the problem may be the same and might have been caused by me removing the nut in order to fit the horn earth strap. When I tried to refit the nut the plastic locking ring on the inside of the nut seemed to fail and it meant the nut was rotating but the inner plastic locking ring wasn't moving so a replacement is due.  It fixed my non-functional horn though!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Jezza.

 

If you are talking about the nuts / bolts shown in the photos which is directly under the suspension housing, then the ones on my car where normal nuts not the Nyloc type.

 

I cannot be 100% certain but I would have thought Nyloc's would not have been used for this.

 

No doubt somebody will be able to confirm for sure.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are talking about the nuts / bolts shown in the photos which is directly under the suspension housing

 

Hi Richard, yes the same ones (where the steering column connects with the steering rack). It could be that the garage that replaced the steering column / rack joint did so with nyloc nuts.. I need to get in closer to have a look and assess what's what but my suspicion is that this nut needs replacing and possibly a washer added (as discussed above).  Before I added the horn earth strap the steering column had no adverse movement, but the horn only worked intermittently.. as with most things you fix one problem only to cause another!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jezza.

 

I think you are correct in what you say regarding the washer - should do the job. Especially as the steering was fine before trying to fix the horn earth strap.

 

Personally, I would use a non Nyloc and go for the standard nut with a split washer. You then have the best of both worlds: bite + nut security.  

 

Just a thought.

 

Regards.

 

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Hello everyone, I don't suppose anybody has any pictures of how the steering column on a Vitesse mk2 convertible is mounted? i've put it in place but there is a certain bracket that                if I line it up, the outer column cover moves up too far and i can't get the steering wheel on. Wish I had a photographic memory.                                                                                                              Thanks for any help you can give.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...