Blitz Posted March 22, 2018 Report Share Posted March 22, 2018 Car delivered on Tue and first drive today. Starts no problem and idles fine. Full throttle is ok too but a dodgy Kangaroo spot in the middle. All in all better than expected. Brakes seem fine as does the steering and suspension. No engine temp problems so far. Dials and electrics seem ok. Few niggly bits to sort out. One of the hard top front bolts won’t tighten. Boot lock won’t lock and the passenger door lock doesn’t want to work properly. I screwed the inside catch up tight to prevent it lifting up as a temp fix. boady work looks good apart from some cracks in the paint work around parts I guess are prone to flexing. shes going to Yorkshire Triumphs once they have finished moving premises, for a good luck over and service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomL Posted March 23, 2018 Report Share Posted March 23, 2018 Nice looking car and a great colour. The few niggling troubles you describe are quite common on these cars and easily fixed. Let us know how you get on. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted March 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Thanks oh passinger seat back seems to have snapped somewhere too. I blamed the other half for that its noisy and everything rattles and vibrates like it’s at warp 9 constantly. Proper classic loving her so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 well you seem to have got a grasp of the smiles and odd despairs with getting to love you car, it will as you have found put a wide smile on even when its playing up a little I would start withnyour kangaroo and check the carb dashpots are filled with 20 /50 engine oil these are dampers and any thin oil will give you a weak mixfure on trying to accelerate Spitty sear backs are a regular fractured problem a bit of de trim and weld a couple of reinforcing plates welded on where the back rest tube supports break will resolve it cheaply. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted March 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Thanks Pete. Completely new to these carbs. Got them on my motorbike but nothing like these things. Thanks for the tip I'll read up and work out how to fill them up and where to put the oil. Oh yes big smiles all round. As said previously been waiting 25 years to get my Spitfire and take it off my bucket list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Looks tidy, the Spit was last mass produced traditional separate chassis sports car. Well done. Driving all Herald based cars also brings a smile to my face. I took the Vitesse for it's MOT last Wednesday, Magic. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted March 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Ok Haynes manual out. Looking at carb diagram. Is their a drainage screw to remove the oil ? From the dashpot. I see a screw but it's labeled up as screw so no bloody help there. Assume removing dashpot will release oil all over the carb body ? First of many noob questions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 The normal way of removing the oil from the dashpot, firstly remove the damper, is either to carefully suck it out using a straw. or remove the piston and turn it up side down and drain it out. The screw on the side of the piston retains the mixture needle. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Nooo! If it's not been done for a while there may not be any oil! As Dave says, but I don't fancy sucking, leaves a nasty taste, so piston out and invert. I have Strombergs and they seem to need topping up monthly! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 a short tube attached to the wifes turkey baster always comes in handy for removing the unwanted . if you want to remove the top cover screws , the oil is ( doesnt hold many spoon fulls ) in the piston centre tube you can as dave suggests lift and remove the air piston tip it out on your shoes , you can look see if the needles are all in the same place , the needle fixing boss level with the base of the air piston, another look inside you will see the jet, they should both be at the same level . with all SU the choke can stick and hold the jet down making normal running very rich, its worth pull the choke and return it poke a finger under the carb and press/check the jet body has accutally returned back up to its adjusting nut the nasty linkage is notorius for sticking the jet down , even when the control has been push back in. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted March 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Ok thanks for the info. I get the general gist. I'll take a look inside and see if I can spot any obvious issues although they will have to be obvious In for a penny in for a pound springs to mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 29 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said: Nooo! If it's not been done for a while there may not be any oil! As Dave says, but I don't fancy sucking, leaves a nasty taste, so piston out and invert. I have Strombergs and they seem to need topping up monthly! Doug Doug, You use a clear straw and stop sucking when the oil reaches near the top. I refrained from making are comment about sucking! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Dave if youve ever seen Doug with a straw you would refrain ....and suggest he needs 0 rings and a sprag washer for the easter bunny stromberg fix. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Pete, I will refrain. Hmm it's those Orball 150CDSE carbs! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Im sure doug wont agree but thats a sensible plan.....refrain, refrain , we must refrain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 4 hours ago, dougbgt6 said: Nooo! If it's not been done for a while there may not be any oil! As Dave says, but I don't fancy sucking, leaves a nasty taste, so piston out and invert. I have Strombergs and they seem to need topping up monthly! Doug Topping up monthly? I dream of topping up my dash-pots as infrequently as that, and that's after changing the o-rings! I wonder if Redex is 20 weight? I could use that to calm down the carb piston whilst dosing the engine with upper cylinder lubricant (or whatever Redex claims to do) Wayne 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted March 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 The dash pots had oil in but I emptied it and put in 20/40. Needles look very clean but a bit of grime here and there so I cleaned that up. Jets look in the right place when pulling the choke etc but I oiled the mechanisms and the choke leaver seems to work better. Didn’t get too adventurous doing anything else in case I made things worse (easy for me to do) put in some redex and run her with that whilst stationary. Things seem fine but hopefully a test drive tomorrow will tell. I know carbs can seem to work great until the engine is actually under load so not counting any Chickens yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 4 hours ago, dave.vitesse said: those Orball 150CDSE carbs! Aw, Pete, go on go on go on go on! I KNOW you like them! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Dave said that, are on the pils ner Niice to be back in blighty Grant, one easy idea for under load misfire is the sparkplug ngk bp6es is the most normal Never any with any R in the suffix , if they are of unknown age just renew them... life and soul of the car. Dont bother with any silly one's stick to basics 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted March 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 Thanks Pete and also for supplying the code number for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted March 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 Ok bit of an update. Took her for a spin whilst the weather was good. Less Kangaroo now once heated up. Being driving like Miss Daisy but opened her up today. Revs no problem whilst stationary but will not go above 4K revs whilst driving. Like hitting a brick wall with some backfire. So as suggested I’m sure it’s electrical. I’ll start with sorting new plugs and take it from there. Few oil leaks too unfortunately so probably some seals will need looking at main one is directly under the exhaust mid section so I’m guessing drive shaft ? Thanks for all your help Grant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 Sounds like timing though could be as said spark plugs or it could be contact point gap. I had that very problem with mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitz Posted March 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 Ah ok. I’ll add timing to my list too, not thought of that thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 Don’t forget the points gap. Mine was almost closed and wouldn’t rev on the road. Assuming you are using points still? If so, worth getting a dwell meter as they are a bit more reliable as it’s measured when running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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