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TWIDDLE DAY 2


Pete Lewis
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Post twiddle update.

Dropped off one of the carbs tonight and the butterfly was installed correctly (was little doubt there was but not being able to get the idle down as ran out of adjustment had to check!)

Looking through the carb when fully closed, you can see the meerest hint of light around the "join" to the body. But given a turn down produces quite a gap, its not significant I would suggest?

There is no obvious gaps between the flanges as the carb bolts on to the heat sync and then the manifold.

So I thought I would check the blanked off servo take off - and it was reasonably loose - not finger tight - but not a lot more. How much extra air is needed to get the idle up?

I only ask because I've not restarted the engine as its pretty late and we have some young kids next door and whilst I would happily start it to go somewhere, I don't think its fair to have it idling.

I've also noticed the oil level has dropped more than I would have expected. But I haven't noticed any smoke in the exhaust and I don't see any leaks either. And the water looks clean (Blue essentially).

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Grant,

Before you buy another modern sealed unit, you may want to consider having your unit rebuilt PROPERLY with a life time guarantee. I flagged a company in the Midlands via this Forum, of which Colin has used - his report & review is an excellent product and service.

Regards.

Richard.

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Grant,  its the worst ive seen for  a  long time , wish we had the time to experiencd the bunny hops,

Try the throttle pedal to add  a  spring may just help the lurch  by reducing the  slack.

Hows the tappets,  new pump will transform the engine noise 

Pete

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it was a great day, thanks again everyone who took part! So after being shown the rear drum brake cylinder retaining clips, i'm in the process of dropping my diff and as the half shafts are coming out for a clean up and light refurb i thought id have a look, turns out either half of it has jumped out or the PO just had no idea so replacements need to be ordered. i cannot for the life of me remember which of the various spare parts dealers was recommended any help would be appreciated.

Leon

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Canley classic james paddocks or  anywhere     rimmerbros   so long as they are the dark tempered metal theybare ok 

Anything shiney or roughly cropped are junk,  a quck fit the pair together the dimples on the curved clip should align with the holes in the outer

You dont need to drop the diff , just drop the shafts and remove the inner axle housing 4 socket screw

Pull the shaft out and no heaving anything heavy 

The pinion seal can also be removed on car.

Pete

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11 hours ago, Anglefire said:

So I thought I would check the blanked off servo take off - and it was reasonably loose - not finger tight - but not a lot more. How much extra air is needed to get the idle up?

It doesn't need a huge amount. When I had a PI estate, I started it up one morning to find the idle heading for 2500RPM as it warmed up. That was caused by a mouse eating a 2mm hole in a hose.

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An idea for another Twiddle Day - compression testers!

It would be an interesting project to use a single tester on several similar engines in good nick, to get an idea of the range of pressures they may have.     It would be good to have engines with known, theoretical CRs, as they will vary.

And, use several testers on one engine, to compare their accuracy.     I've long said that different testers cannot be compared, they are not precision instruments nor calibrated, but I have no evidence of that!

John

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we had one on the bench but did not get round to using it 

yes next time ...around september  would work  once i have Duxford over and finished 

Pete

Mark  there some common ground in that  both carbs had the same problem , so external air feed or throttle plates seemed the most likely culprit

if the plates closed with a hint of light at the spindles that sounds OK  

with a semi sealed breather system is there a leak from the rocker cover or crankcase letting in some stray air???

Pete

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some of the gear we demonstrated on sunday 

side slip tracking gauge   search around but amazon are good value

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D3084786031&field-keywords=trackrite&rh=n%3A83450031%2Cn%3A!83452031%2Cn%3A!161460031%2Cn%3A3084786031%2Ck%3Atrackrite

Gunson G4008 Trakrite Wheel Alignment Gauge

stud extractor    https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/tool-connection-tc3986-impact-stud-extractor/

265DA522-B3E3-41D3-B058-A7B556D5B394-large.jpg

petes home made parallels  and tape measure toe in

 

and click adjust which performed so well it stays firmly in the back of the cupboard

71%2BxbRlhu6L._SL1500_.jpg

 

petes toe in.JPG

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6 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

 

Mark  there some common ground in that  both carbs had the same problem , so external air feed or throttle plates seemed the most likely culprit

if the plates closed with a hint of light at the spindles that sounds OK  

with a semi sealed breather system is there a leak from the rocker cover or crankcase letting in some stray air???

Pete

Well there was a hint all way around but I would expect that tbh. Though I will have a look at my other carbs later too. Though I’ve had the same issue on the the previous engine so it has to be something other than carbs directly. Not sure if I said before but the old manifold servo take off was as loose too - but that had a disintegrating “paper” gasket. So that could be the common problem. 

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A agree compression testing and carb balancing on sep menu. Water pump on its way from Rimmer’s hopefully here for the bank holiday. Will fit the pedal spring too I was donated. Tappets are nice and quiet now thanks. Really enjoyed my day and great bunch without any pretentious prima donnas. 

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14 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

Canley classic james paddocks or  anywhere     rimmerbros   so long as they are the dark tempered metal theybare ok 

Anything shiney or roughly cropped are junk,  a quck fit the pair together the dimples on the curved clip should align with the holes in the outer

You dont need to drop the diff , just drop the shafts and remove the inner axle housing 4 socket screw

Pull the shaft out and no heaving anything heavy 

The pinion seal can also be removed on car.

Pete

Pete

Sorry i wasn't clear, i'm dropping the diff because its being replaced, I've got access to a sand blasting cabinet and a 2 tonne hydraulic press so i'm going to try and completely refurb the half shafts and hub assemblies myself!

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12 hours ago, Anglefire said:

Well there was a hint all way around but I would expect that tbh. Though I will have a look at my other carbs later too. Though I’ve had the same issue on the the previous engine so it has to be something other than carbs directly. Not sure if I said before but the old manifold servo take off was as loose too - but that had a disintegrating “paper” gasket. So that could be the common problem. 

I had another look last night.

Idle is possibly a bit lower - but not much. 

Taking off the oil cap and you can feel a bit of pressure in there - which I'm sure isn't right as there is only one place that can come from I assume.

Removing the oil breather from the rocker cover and plugging it also made no difference so any extra air is not from there (which given its before the throttle disks is no real surprise!) Though if you blocked the pipe on the carbs with your finger then if you took it off the idle speed would change and almost stall - but if it didn't the idle speed came back - but I'm guessing that is just the differential pressure across the needle changing and then re-balancing itself. 

So I think a compression test is on the cards for a start.

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Cant see a compression test solving this  the idle was quite even and regular no real hint of any missfire 

Somewhere theres stray air passing or bypassing the throttle plates  as the throttle stops are wound right off and she still idles 

At a smooth 1200  ...   theres no imbalance or misfire   suggesting any compresion problems

The normal removal of the filler cap or breather hoses would be to increase the idle  

Did your orig carbs have the same breather set up ??

Pete

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5 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

Somewhere theres stray air passing or bypassing the throttle plates

Haven't heard from the start as I wasn't at Twiddle day (Drat! and double drat!) However could this be my own nemesis, leaking manifold gasket?

Doug 

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

Cant see a compression test solving this  the idle was quite even and regular no real hint of any missfire 

Somewhere theres stray air passing or bypassing the throttle plates  as the throttle stops are wound right off and she still idles 

At a smooth 1200  ...   theres no imbalance or misfire   suggesting any compresion problems

The normal removal of the filler cap or breather hoses would be to increase the idle  

Did your orig carbs have the same breather set up ??

Pete

Yes it’s the same as I originally setup when I had it. But that doesn’t necessarily mean anything!

Actually what I’ve not tried it closing down the intake to the throttle bodies with my hand. Though fuel has to be getting to the engine too. Though my what I think is high oil consumption could be it? It went from half way up the dipstick to the min mark in about 130miles. But no sign of a leak or blue in the exhaust. Unless it’s going somewhere else. 

2 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

Haven't heard from the start as I wasn't at Twiddle day (Drat! and double drat!) However could this be my own nemesis, leaking manifold gasket?

Doug 

I didn’t think so - but not sure tbh. I’m not sure the best way to check. The gasket was new so I would hope seals ok.

and the only way to change it is to drop the water down a bit and whip it off - I can’t think if the exhaust has to come off too? I can check that on my spare engine though if needs be. 

I didn’t put any additional sealant on it. 

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