Exhaust Manifold Leak Mk1 2L Vitesse

[68vitesse]

Does any one know of a source for better quality gasket for the manifold head joint?, the current ones on offer are thinner than original and do not have reinforcing at the holes for the studs.

After a drive this morning now have a leak on number 1 exhaust port and not to sure on another, current gasket lasted less than two years in use.

Many thanks

Paul

[Algy]

I have not seen any. I wouldn’t want reinforcing around the stud holes but it would be nice to have a folded metal ring around the exhaust ports. The big problem for this gasket is it has two very different jobs to do: sealing high temp / high pressure exhaust gases and low temp / low pressure inlet mixture, unlike a cross flow engine.

[Pete Lewis]

ive found many Mk1 gaskets are all cut incorrectly and ports and stud holes are misaligned 

never had any troubles with MK2  ones 

dont know who to suggest

Pete

[68vitesse]

Agree with Pete repro are not good hence the question.

Have thought of trying to make my own, only ever done paper gaskets wonder what the practicalities would be.

Gasket is long and not very wide with some quite narrow bits, will have to see what Ebay offers.

NOS gaskets would be the other thing to try but how have they been stored down the years?.

Regards

Paul

[daverclasper]

Would Chic Doig/Canley have better ones,as they work on these cars?.

Mick Dolphin NOS?.

Gasket cement if no joy?.

Dave

Edited April 8, 2018 by daverclasper

[Dick Twitchen]

My last one came from Mark Field at Jigsaw Racing and has been fine; and with a tubular manifold that probably flex's more than a cast one.  Along the line of Dave's comment he uses them on his cars.

Dick

[68vitesse]

Running out of exhaust manifolds, nice crack in the leg and bit missing from No1 exhaust gasket. Also surprised at how loose the nuts were on the end studs rest of bolts and nuts felt ok never read anything about retightening the manifold like cylinder heads.

Regards

Paul

 

[daverclasper]

Hi Paul.

What has caused the cracking, is this a common thing please?.

Thanks, Dave

[68vitesse]

Had a couple crack in over the twenty years I've had the car don't know if it's bad design, age or just unlucky.

Regards

Paul

[daverclasper]

Thanks.

I guess hairline cracks, could fill in with carbon, though maybe the cracks get more severe over time?.

Dave

[68vitesse]

On one of them one of the legs broke of complely cannot remember if it was one or six, cracks will only get worse.

Regards

Paul

[Pete Lewis]

Think mk1 are more prone to this  m2 perhaps a better design,

Heat expansion stress  has to be the main culprit, and I guess how the pipework is supported have an effect

There is no sequence to the  tightening just a normal   should be equal  and low torque  5/16  = 12lbft  and the 3/8  =20 lbft

So much lower than a std bolt,  guess this is to allow   some panting and shift on the graphite gasket as heat and pulses are absorbed

Pete

[68vitesse]

Spoke to a couple of the more specialist suppliers one said he always retorques the manifold after initial run. The other said he believed there was less nickle in the Mk1 manifold mix than the Mk2, neither knew of a better quality alternative for the gasket.

Regards

Paul

[dave.vitesse]

Not sure it would work, but worth a try. Use two manifold gaskets. Not the best way to go but if there is no other solution at present.

After fitting a new manifold I  have found if you check the bolts holding the manifolds in place they always require tightening up. This is a standard workshop process as the new gasket compresses with heat and use. The same goes for a new head gasket.  So yes check and re-torque, if require, after a few miles. If you don't it will eventually start leaking. 

Dave

[Pete Lewis]

the gasket does probably fail if its done up too tight something has to give , the mating faces must be allowed to shift around a bit , hence the material used 

if its secured too firmly could be the grip is wrecking the gasket , so it looks 'blown'  when its actually  ' walked out' as the manifold will move more than the head 

Pete

[dave.vitesse]

Pete, Totally agree the nuts should not be over tight. 

One thing I forgot was the exhaust should be fixed/supported at the bell housing and diff to stop to much flexing. These fixings are often left off.

Dave 

[dave.vitesse]

Vitesse - The original factory set-up hard fixes, not flexible, the exhaust pipe to the bell housing, this is to reduce the movement at the exhaust manifold. The fixing at the diff carrier is by using a flexible strap, as is the rear exhaust box fixing.

If these gaskets are weak and the bell housing support is missing it may be worth re-instating it.

Dave

[68vitesse]

Always had the bellhousing support and used torque wrench for the manifold fixings but never retorqued fixings, intend to give it a try.

Regards

Paul

 

[68vitesse]

Did about fifteen miles last night and have just retightened the exhaust manifold nuts and bolts to twenty foot pounds engine cold.

Surprised how much they moved, they where less than fifteen foot pounds, now just a waiting game.

Regards

Paul

[dave.vitesse]

Paul, That what I have found in the past.

Dave 

[daverclasper]

Just looked underneath Vit. Can't see that exhaust front fixed clamp and can't remember it when taking exhaust off .

Guess I should make something up.

Any reason why not, from folk  with more understanding on component stress please?.

Thanks, Dave   

Edited April 11, 2018 by daverclasper

[68vitesse]

If you don't the only firm fixing of the exhaust is the manifold bolts and studs.

Regards

Paul 

[PeteH]

Hi

Bit of an Anomaly here. Haynes Vittese (p87) do not show a Bellhousing clamp. Though there is a Clip Shown?. The GT6 does however show a full clamp and bracket. The Stanpart catalogue for the 13/60 shows a full clip and bracket?.

I seem to remember, (30+ years ago) that my Wife's (1968 2L) Vittese did have a clamp and bracket to the Bellhousing.

 

Pete

 

[Pete Lewis]

Somethings in th e back of the grey matter is recalling the drop bracket/strap was made from a spring steel so it was

More tolerant to vibration cracking

Or was that on something  else ??

Pete

[PeteH]

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

Somethings in th e back of the grey matter is recalling the drop bracket/strap was made from a spring steel so it was

More tolerant to vibration cracking

Or was that on something  else ??

Pete

Hi

Not something that I remember, but it was 30+ years ago!. The one (that was) on my 13/60, appeared to be just mild steel. Now my curiosity is aroused, I can see a session of raking through the "meccano set" ,to check!. (Bu**er!)

Pete