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Other people's bodges


ShaunW

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  • 1 year later...
23 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Not a bodge, more a case of... serious neglect. If that was a child he'd do time.

yikes.thumb.jpg.1d01374060a84631aaaaeafd05173c07.jpg

 

I have seen worse than that, a customer brought his MK3 Escort in for what he said was its 1st service..... I thought strange, it's over 10years old. Asked a few more questions and he said that the service was due at 18000 miles which he had duly done..... He had missed the part which said "or 12mths" whatever is sooner. Managed to prise the rocker cover off with a slurping noise, and you could not see the rockers at all.... just the shape of the cover. Cue new engine fitted  :) 

Tony.

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Inside the rocker cover of my PI didn't look too dis-similar to that when I got it, 

you could just about make out the rockers amongst the sludge.

I do not think the engine was serviced in a very long time, if ever.

Did me about 15k before other things got the engine. 

When the block went for cleaning recently, they commented they hadn't had one that bad for a while. I stunk of neglect,

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  • 4 weeks later...

Oh Lord. What am I meant to do with this??? The lining came off the opposite shoe and jammed the wheel of this Ifor Williams horse trailer, so I removed and replaced the shoes on that side. Now to replace the other side to balance the braking... drum comes off, no linings at all on either shoe, springs hanging loose and one jammed around the top shoe, but then, no backplate either... tools down for the day. Tomorrow, then.

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That's a common problem I'm told, Colin!

I took SofS to Spa two years ago, and became convinced that the shockabsorber in the tow bar was shot, as whenever I slowed, the trailer would hit the tow bar with a crash.    1000 miles feeling a bit worried - but 4.3 miles ever so many times of absolute joy!

Anyway, get home, inspect the trailer.    Shocker is fine!   Inspect the brakes - OMG!  - four wheels, eight brake shoes - and only two still had brake material attached!  They were all rusty, and my supplier of trailer parts tells me this is common.   Trailers sit for most of their careers, the brake drums get damo and stay that way, and the rust attacks, pushing the brake material off the shoes!   They only rarely get warmed and dried out, so need inspection and replacement much mor eoften that a car, even one used occasionally.

Like trailer tyres - they never wear out, they don't get enough use, unless you're a pro trailer operator.   Instead they go out of date, and quicker than car tyres as they sit, baking in the sun.    Huh! Trailers!

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1 hour ago, JohnD said:

They only rarely get warmed and dried out, so need inspection and replacement much mor eoften that a car, even one used occasionally.

Lesson learned, John - one down, three to go and I hope the uninspected two aren't as bad as this one. £40 approx for a new backplate, so possibly times three? Oops...

(Can't even get the old backplate off, too badly rusted, so plenty of penetrating oil, heat, and Weetabix needed...)

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Scary!  Changed from trailer to Renault master conversion 5 years ago, and because it's also my work van, it doesn't get neglected...  We used to have a very old extremely heavy Rice trailer in the days when we didn't really care what we towed it with. Clutch smoke from an Opel Record estate was a common occurrence.

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Colin,

I have used some "Innotec Deblock oil" and found it most effective!  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Innotec-DeBlock-Oil-500ml-ONLY-Authorised-Distributor-on-EBAY/222799217914?hash=item33dfde44fa:g:1pUAAOSwNm5ZqmUc

Alternatively, the old trick of heating and then rubbing the bolt head with a candle!   Not very hot just enough to melt the wax, which then wicks into the thread and lubricates it.  

Ultimately, the maximum heat can be inflicted by welding a second bolt to the first, or else just welding a blob on the head.  Local red heat can be achieved that way!

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36 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Another hour's work using a blow torch and no further on. Once it cools I'll try the penetrating oil and leave for a few hours. Scary thing is: can we expect MOT-exempt cars to go the same way?

I found heating up a stubborn bolt and spraying WD40 , some smoke 😱 needed several applications and worked for me 

Paul 

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46 minutes ago, JohnD said:

Colin,

I have used some "Innotec Deblock oil" and found it most effective!  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Innotec-DeBlock-Oil-500ml-ONLY-Authorised-Distributor-on-EBAY/222799217914?hash=item33dfde44fa:g:1pUAAOSwNm5ZqmUc

Alternatively, the old trick of heating and then rubbing the bolt head with a candle!   Not very hot just enough to melt the wax, which then wicks into the thread and lubricates it.  

Ultimately, the maximum heat can be inflicted by welding a second bolt to the first, or else just welding a blob on the head.  Local red heat can be achieved that way!

Consider it sold!! I like the sound of that stuff - thanks for the link John. Never tried candle wax, that's another tip I must salt away. These are Allen-headed bolts; thankfully I have the Allen key bit for the impact wrench but boy are they stuck fast. I work on them for a few minutes, then go off and do something else, then return again... I'll get there.

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Try giving giving the bolt heads a good whack Colin, not a tap pretend you are trying to knock the trailer off it's stands :)  The allen bolt might flatten a bit, but you will be able to knock the allen key back in so it wont round off. Don't bother with penetrating oils just hit HARD and it will come out. Give one a try.

Tony.

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This one subtle enough, Tony?

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Four hours down and an aching back, I've stopped for lunch. Three bolts out but the fourth.... what a bu$$er. Still hasn't moved and has broken all of my 10mm impact sockets and Allen keys. Will now have to wait until the Autofactors opens on Monday to get more.

 

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