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Other people's bodges


ShaunW

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15 hours ago, Peter Truman said:

Colin the new shiny backplate looks to be a thinner gage than say our Triumphs?

Well done sir I assume copper grease was put on the threads upon reassembly

It's actually very very solid and heavy; you can just make out a second inner plate on the front that supports the brake shoes, and it's very solid and unbending. Cost me £50 per backplate! It's just the scale of things that makes it look thinner, as it's all larger than Triumphs would be, but a lot simpler to assemble the brake shoes. I used plenty of copper grease on the studs; you can see it on the adjuster bracket to the left (no adjuster fitted yet). Of course, the Innotec that John recommended arrived today, but it's now available for the front brakes when I start those.

Thanks for all your encouragement; it's great to be able to rant for a bit, then roll up the sleeves and back into the fray...

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14 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

It's actually very very solid and heavy; you can just make out a second inner plate on the front that supports the brake shoes, and it's very solid and unbending. Cost me £50 per backplate! It's just the scale of things that makes it look thinner, as it's all larger than Triumphs would be, but a lot simpler to assemble the brake shoes. I used plenty of copper grease on the studs; you can see it on the adjuster bracket to the left (no adjuster fitted yet). Of course, the Innotec that John recommended arrived today, but it's now available for the front brakes when I start those.

Thanks for all your encouragement; it's great to be able to rant for a bit, then roll up the sleeves and back into the fray...

You wouldn't think a trailer would give such grief, but they do on a regular basis. I think it's something to do with with farmyard sh*t being acidic? I have never had an easy one to take apart. A caravan backplate on the other hand come off easy.....

Tony.

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It's just the way we use trailers - unless you use it every day, any moisture can do its worst, before use dries it out.

I'm beginning to worry about my modern car that is sees much less use since lockdown.     It's nine years old and the battery let me down for the first time ever, gave it a recharge, and it did the same, so I had to get another.

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2 hours ago, JohnD said:

I'm beginning to worry about my modern car that is sees much less use since lockdown.     It's nine years old and the battery let me down for the first time ever, gave it a recharge, and it did the same, so I had to get another.

My "modern"'s battery is OK as it failed the year I bought the car. However, its service and MOT cost me £600 this year, mostly because of things that had rusted from not being used.

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  • 2 months later...

That is just down to p*ss poor maintenance Colin. That could have passed an mot over here as you are not allowed to remove the wheels to check pads. Plus if they pull up straight you can only put it down as an advise, bloody stupid i know. God help the rest of the car......

Tony.

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I seem to have deleted the original post and can't find an 'undelete button' so here's the offending articles again:

FA05E126-1B6E-49B9-97E4-D259B2B85727_1_105_c.jpg.5d4761150cfb9b423136f408fc838330.jpg

I don't run any kind of business, John, so did not give any kind of official verdict; the new owner merely wanted to know if any parts were available locally or who the best mainland supplier was. He was amazed that the seller claimed the car required no MOT and could be used straightaway, and I used the opportunity to free off all the seized wheel nuts with my impact wrench, as well as separating the very loudly grinding front pads from the discs to make the car easier to push off the transporter and into his garage when he arrived there. I ended up removing the pads to get the calipers pushed back in, and couldn't resist a quick photo.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just disassembled all the rear hubs and removed all the bearings on my mk3, gt6.

 I was going to change the studs for longer ones anyway but 2 of the studs on one hub are a different length and 1 on the other hub is a different length.

It looks factory but could be someone else's bodge....

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  • 9 months later...

It's the turret I want to reuse, plenty of wishbones but even so hate destroying any of them. I don't have an airsaw, the hand hacksaw took ages at an inch of movement max and made no difference whatsoever, and all of my grinding discs are too small in diameter to cut right the way through. It was rounded off before I even started so couldn't get a socket on it. I'll get there... but if he'd done it the correct way round with the nut on the outside, it would have been a doddle.

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Now if I had tried to fit that and tighten it up, then the bolt would have snapped!! You have probably tried the mole wrench on the nut as tight as humanly possible (looking at the state of the nut) and turned the head of the bolt with a socket and 3 foot bar to snap it?? Maybe even a multi purpose tool with a metal cutting blade to take out the nut and then bash it off

image.png.07900c566e9a518621c0e0020fd94073.png

 

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9 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Sawing through the bush between wishbone and turret gives about an inch, maybe two, of movement of the saw blade. It's gonna take ages at that rate... :(

About time you invested in an airsaw. I use old hacksaw blades in mine, chop the unuded ends off and they work a treat (assuming you use proper bimetal blades)

They are not expensive, don't get used a lot, but when you need to do something like your "issue", they are ideal

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IF it`s just the turret you want?. I would put a slitting disk through the bolt under and over the wishbone?

In retrospect I think that`s how I did mine?.

The other option is to split the nut with a Hammer and Cold chisel in the old fashioned way?.

Pete

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1 hour ago, clive said:

About time you invested in an airsaw.

Not the first tool I'd have bought for one use, then it sits on the shelf for years... :)

10 minutes ago, PeteH said:

IF it`s just the turret you want?

It is, but I hate damaging any part, after all they may be common now but a few years down the line if anyone's still driving our cars they might be needed. I'll hacksaw the bolt on either side, as even if I grind the nut off it'll still be stuck in the tube. The other three were wee buns compared.

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I brought a cheap electric reciprocating saw ($50) several years ago to cut thro the Dollys sub frame bolts best thing ever, also use it in the garden to cut tree branch’s all the neighbours have used it looking for a battery unit to replace it.

reckon it would take less than 5 min to cut thro that bolt

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6 hours ago, Mathew said:

Wear a glove on the hand operating the saw, its amazing how many times you can slip and cut your hand!

Bought a saw handle that enables a hacksaw blade to be used one handed; I've gone through two blades so far. They just bend, almost immediately, and from the feel of it they're not even through the rubber bush yet.

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