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Other people's bodges


ShaunW

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  • 1 year later...

Latest bodge: I mentioned to a dealer back in July that a car I was thinking of buying might have had a sticking brake caliper, but it freed up before purchase. If it was ever sticking, I don't see how.... :)

Both rear brake calipers coated in spray-on copper grease, including pads and discs.

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On 05/10/2021 at 15:26, Colin Lindsay said:

Bought a saw handle that enables a hacksaw blade to be used one handed; I've gone through two blades so far. They just bend, almost immediately, and from the feel of it they're not even through the rubber bush yet.

That would be a "pad saw".    Which way around did you mount the blade, Colin?     It's essential that you do so so that it cuts on the 'pull', as there is nothing there to keep the blade straight on the 'push'.  And hacksaw bales are made with soft metal bodies and hardened teeth, so they  dont do well if 'pushed'.

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Also lubricate the blade.  WD40 is good.

John

Edited by JohnD
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26 minutes ago, JohnD said:

That would be a "pad saw".    Which way around did you mount the blade, Colin?     It's essential that you do so so that it cuts on the 'pull', as there is nothing there to keep the blade straight on the 'push'.  And hacksaw bales are made with soft metal bodies and hardened teeth, so they  dont do well if 'pushed'.

image.png.15ce368d953f5818cf4bc5c004175cd5.png

Also lubricate the blade.  WD40 is good.

John

Thankfully my (genuine) pad saw blades are handed, they'll only fit into the handle at one end, so I copied the angle of the teeth for the hacksaw. I know only too well the flex/ bend of the hacksaw blade, ruined too many good ones in my time!

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13 hours ago, johny said:

So theyre breaking even set up correctly Colin? Maybe the rubber is 'grabbing' them and as John says some lube is needed along with a lighter touch😬

No, that's just me being ham-fisted. It wouldn't be the first time I'd grabbed a spare blade, wound tape to protect my fingers round the nearest end without looking, and then found that it bent the first time I pushed it forward. They last longer in the proper saw frame.

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14 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Thankfully my (genuine) pad saw blades are handed, they'll only fit into the handle at one end, so I copied the angle of the teeth for the hacksaw. I know only too well the flex/ bend of the hacksaw blade, ruined too many good ones in my time!

Colin,

You didn't answer my question!   Which way do the 'handed' pad saw blades go in?   If to cut on the push then then they are wrongly made!

John

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2 hours ago, JohnD said:

Colin,

You didn't answer my question!   Which way do the 'handed' pad saw blades go in?   If to cut on the push then then they are wrongly made!

John

Apologies!! They do cut on the push, only one way to fit as they taper to the other end.

IMG_6427.thumb.jpeg.3666480ae81f29d77d117b4fef597837.jpeg

 

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Ah! Such pad saws may be great cutting the plaster board they are meant for.   Those teeth are too coarse for metal, no wonder the saw bound in the cut and bent!

You need something like this, takes metal cutting blades!  https://www.amazon.co.uk/ENGINEER-Handheld-Hacksaw-Fitted-Plastic/dp/B002F9MNZO/ref=asc_df_B002F9MNZO/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=222086461140&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11766364234994815043&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-421950512803&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

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I have one similar to Colin`s. Inherited from my Dad, so at a guess at least 100years Old!. Still have the "proper" taper fit blades which cut on the "push". One advantage is it will also take a hacksaw blade, and gets use occasionally in confined places where a power tool will not go. Designed originally for cutting wood/light boards etc;. light strokes and let the blade do the work. On metals I fit the hacksaw blade to cut on the "pull". Fine (24 teeth or more) blades show less tendancy to "jam", with or without a light lubricant.

Pete

Edited by PeteH
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best bodge i came across in my years was a rover P6 with a seized caliper had sheared/fractured the brake disc where its undercut  from the hub flange for whatever reason 

and the PO had removed the "floating " disc and replaced with a lump of wood to stop the pistons extending too far ...3 wheel braking 

he would not replace the dunlop  ££ caliper and a week later he complained the new disc we fitted against all logic had failed again ...well it would (wood)

Pete

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Chipping in whilst 'House Sitting' in Cumbria.

I made my junior hacksaw frame as a 17 year old apprentice. One piece of 3/8" dia spring steel. It had to lay flat on a surface table with and without a blade fitted. It took me a whole week. Somebody 'Nicked' it some twenty years on and if has my clock number CA216 on it if ever appears.

I used it for standard Hack sawing and in reverse for 'Coping' applications.

Hacksaw blades come in various forms, hardened on tooth side only, hardened and 'Brittle' throughout and with all sorts of tooth pitches.

My favourite metalwork teacher had a 'Saying' for all sawing tasks. 'Light and long, you can't go wrong'. It has often proved the best method. I can remember some other task where this approach is very favourable.

 

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