Dave pb Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Hello An old chestnut I'm afraid. Rear carb leaking fuel from the right hand side, top hole in the carb face and then out via the air filter cover. (150cdse) I believe this is either a stuck valve or a stuck/leaking float. Any alternative but to take both carbs and linkages off and do a refurb? The WSM is not very helpful either, it says disconnect carbs from engine but doesn't mention anything about accelerator / choke cables/ fuel lines disconnection. Is it that obvious people should know all that anyway? I guess so... Any advice appreciated. Thanks Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Dave, I'll get in before Pete! Rubber slivers could be blocking the valve open. they are debris from the rubber pipe. The reservoir and then the valve can be got off in situ with only air filters removed, but easier on the bench. Worth trying before you start refurbishment. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted June 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Hi Doug I like the idea of taking the reservoir off in situ. Sounds right up my "try everything that's easy first" street. (only then to find it didn't work and turns into a major job anyway). Thanks Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Dave, It's fiddly, you might need a mirror to locate the screws. Best to familiarize yourself with the layout before you start. You may also need new reservoir gaskets if it hasn't been taken apart for a while. Here is a useful Link to Buckeye Triumphs, a USA club who have some good technical stuff. Their Strombergs are 175s off a USA TR6, but essentially the same as our 150s. Having said that there are half a dozen variants to 150s, top adjusting, bottom adjusting etc. The carb overhaul is in 3 parts, links to parts 2 & 3 at the bottom of part 1. http://buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted June 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 ok . the 5 screws are out. Petrol leaking from the gasket and I now have very clean petrol-soaked hands. However the reservoir wont come off. Does the plug at the bottom have to come out too? I thought I might be able to pull the reservoir over it. As far as I can see the plug is screwed in to the body and only a rubber o ring is sealing it to the reservoir? Dave ==== Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 1 minute ago, Dave pb said: ok . the 5 screws are out. What about the sixth one? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Indeed! There are 6 screws. db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted June 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Aha! a very good point. Sixth one off, reservoir off! I hate that WSM. Shows 5 screws (but 6 holes!) Floats dangling free. Needle valve seems to be free, but I'll take it out and clean it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Yes been on school run had to detour via the dark part of the town takes hoirs to go nowhere. Dougs on the ball, take a Browse at buckeye you can if the float has double float arms fit the float upside down Rubber slivers crafty little sods get into everwhere Whiles its nearly in peices check the temperature compensator on the side (2screws) are actually closed as these bypas the throttles and if open when should be closed you cant set the idle and mixture correctly Easy just turn the small nut to close the platic plunger onto its seating Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted June 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Turns out I have a carb refurb kit in the garage, so I have put a new needle valve in. Now, gasket sealant or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted June 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 I read on buckeye that the fuel will dissolve any gasket sealant so I didn't bother. reassembled. Runs! No leaks! Job's a goodun! Thanks for the advice. The 6th bolt was a classic. Now for a look a the temp controllers. Should they be open or shut now? Its a warm day, engine is warm but definitely not hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 Temperature compensators should only open in a hot climate, Florida, Arizona etc., to be honest they are more trouble than they are worth. I think they were only put on to placate the Americans and their emission regulations. Don't attempt to adjust them, Buckeye shows you how but I wouldn't try it. Best you can do is replace the seals, two on each. TCs purpose is to bleed air past the butterfly when the weather is REALLY hot, but if this is happening all the time, even when it's cold, you'll never get the carbs set up right. Some people say block them off all together! Did you know air conditioning was an option on America GT6s? Not a lot of people know that! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave pb Posted June 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 I could do with some A/C in mine. Just had a 5 mile test run. Beautiful. Usual clunks and bangs from the back end Tailgate? Exhaust? Boards in the back bouncing about a bit. But otherwise runs lovely. Few little jobs to do, change the oil, flush the cooling system, but that's all. Thanks again Dave ==== 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willis Posted August 8, 2019 Report Share Posted August 8, 2019 Hi folks, could this be the same problem I'm having with my Vitesse? I can't see any fuel leaking from the carbs themselves, but it is leaking from the air filter box at the rear so the carb(s) must be doing something they shouldn't be doing. Could it be just new gaskets required or will it be more involved? Cheers, Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 8, 2019 Report Share Posted August 8, 2019 Hi Rob, sounds like the float chamber is overflowing as it discharges out of a hole in the front face of the carb into the airfilter box. Can be down to float punctured, sticking or float valve not closing properly due to wear or dirt. Another possibility is that youve changed to a new fuel pump and it has a higher output pressure than the old one.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 8, 2019 Report Share Posted August 8, 2019 Rob, Sounds like one or both are flooding. Could be dodgy floats in the reservoirs or stuck inlet valves, the dread rubber slivers in the fuel line! An inspection and clean up required. Johny beat me to it! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willis Posted August 8, 2019 Report Share Posted August 8, 2019 Thanks chaps, looks like another strip down and fix to do. This car just doesn't want to be driven. Ah well, here we go again. 😠 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 9, 2019 Report Share Posted August 9, 2019 Mine was down to rust coming through from the fuel tank (quite common in our cars) so you might have to decide whether to do a complete job or clean and hope for the best (took this option but have bought an additional filter to install)..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 9, 2019 Report Share Posted August 9, 2019 If you are not familiar with the rubber sliver syndrome this is wnen you disturb the rubber hoses and inserting the metal tubes you slice off a small shard of the hose inner wall these little sods float about back and forth with the fuel flow and when youre you least want it they get into the back of the needle float valve and jam it open Stromberg floats are generally solid foam and dont puncture or take on fuel When refitting get a jam jar and get the pump to squirt into it , see what you can catch Every hose connection is a source of slivers The more you strip the more you can make Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 9, 2019 Report Share Posted August 9, 2019 With the encouragement of a gnarled old member (whose name escapes me) I replaced the assorted pipes and rubber tubes between fuel pump and carbs with a single rubber tube. This reduces the chance of slivers and keeps the fuel cool. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 9, 2019 Report Share Posted August 9, 2019 im Knurled not Knarled its on the tablets Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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