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6 cylinder rocker shaft end caps, removal


daverclasper

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Dave  there is utopia or compromise

 If its fomula 1 then utopia is the only option  when its 50 year old triumph    then a compromise to a working condition is king

Theres a balance based on  the costs and anticipated milage  little point in a  £5k engine rebuild and do 500 miles a year 

Spend £100 on rockers and get 20,000miles on the clock is a  more sensible option

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Hi. Have dismantled old shaft. Only one rocker seemed really bad so will replace that. Do I have to screw the adjusters in a bit to allow for the new shaft not being worn, before I fasten the pedestals down?. Of course I will be checking valve clearance's before I start it.

One other thing, the WSM says there is a rattle proof washer for the Pozi screw that goes through oil feed pedestal, into shaft. mine didn't have one. the screws pretty beveled below the head so does a flat washer crush to that shape when tightened?. Shall I just make sure screw is pretty tight?.

Also my shaft is blanked off at each end, so think it's ok to just to use split pins?.

New shaft is about 1mm longer than old shaft, I'm guessing rocker cover will still have plenty of room, also a couple of the oil flats have been machined to only just within the sides of the rockers, in there position on shaft (well it was only £25), so hope that's ok.

Any further advice great please.  

Thanks, Dave 

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Flat washer wont work  best to use a loctite and do up tight with a correct fitting screwdriver think its a no3 posidrive 

But by age it may be  a  phillips   both look similar as a cross head  but angles are very different 

The conical washer would be an external star shakeproof 

Pete

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dave its the cam follower that rotates the push rod ,  the follower is lightly offset to the centre of the lobe so any lift makes it rotate

its not rocket science , this may be just general wear on the cam or the follower contact surface, 

a bent pusrod can make a similar back and forth motion 

look at that but not overly anything to worry about 

Pete

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Thanks Pete.  I didn't make a note of which rod it was (should have been more anal!), though maybe was no 4, which was the rocker that had most wear in the bore and on the pad and corresponding area of shaft.

I guess the push rod can be removed to check straightness by valve in closed position and screwing in the adjuster?.

Sorry, another question.

Dave 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi. Before I replaced the very worn shaft, my valve gaps were stable over 1000's of miles. Car has now done about 3000 since new shaft and seems to be getting progressively more tappety. Sounds like more than just one cylinder. Could this down to old rockers bedding in to new shaft (hopefully new shaft isn't like cheese and wearing quickly).

Cheers, Dave

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not to worry too much but i have a local who used a reputable local engine shop to face and cut the valves seats and fit a new shaft

first they lost 6 of the lower spring cups, (very rare to find)then chucked all the numbered pushrods in a trico tank all mixed up, refitted the collets and had one jammed in the top cup which ended up locking the hand engine turning and bent a pushrod, chucked the supplied mills pins and fitted ..the split pins instead....you just cant get the best feeling when all this goes wrong , and its been paid for .....diy.... if goes wrong its only you to blame 

put your beloved in the hands of professionals and all heck breaks loose

pete

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17 hours ago, daverclasper said:

Hi. Before I replaced the very worn shaft, my valve gaps were stable over 1000's of miles. Car has now done about 3000 since new shaft and seems to be getting progressively more tappety. Sounds like more than just one cylinder. Could this down to old rockers bedding in to new shaft (hopefully new shaft isn't like cheese and wearing quickly).

Cheers, Dave

If it's any consolation, mine was the same. Reset the clearances after around 500 miles and they've stayed quiet. I also checked with a torque wrench that the pedestal nuts were still tight after a number of heating / cooling cycles.

Gully

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Thanks

Only used "professionals"three times in my life when I had less experience and all were unbelievably bad through lack of skill/knowledge. In all cases I ended up sorting it myself after doing research.  I must have been unlucky as there will be good mechanics out there.

That is hopeful Gully,  cheers.

Dave  

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