daverclasper Posted July 10, 2018 Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 Quite surprised no threads since May about cooling, especially in this weather!. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted July 10, 2018 Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 Mine hasn't been an issue - at least on the water side - not 100% sure about oil, but I think that is probably ok too! But I do have a new full width rad on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted July 10, 2018 Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 I didn't notice any real issues at CLM either, and the cars were often stuck in traffic etc. for extended periods. In fact it seems ignition caused a couple of issues, and one of our group needed to blow down their fuel pipe to clear a blockage..... But then again cars that get used seem to have far fewer issues than those that don't. (there is a moral to that) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 At the last Cambridge area meeting, somebody commented on the lack of engine bay valances and radiator ducting on my GT6. "Don't they overheat without them?" they asked, as that appears to be the common wisdom. Well, in my experience, no. It runs hot in the cabin and it tends to stutter when pulling away in traffic but the gauge just sits in the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 The 1850 in the Dolomite is running GREAT in traffic and slow driving, but the temp climbs under heavy load/higher speed. I'm looking at a recon rad to perhaps address the issue. The Spitfire 1500 doesn't seem the least bit bothered, but then I have fitted the wider rad and an oil cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Just like Clive, stuck in the CLM traffic and the temperature did rise (standard radiator, no side valences and mechanical fan) but not to the 'pull over' stage and on checking levels fine. It may just have been timing and the route but do not recall seeing a classic at the side of the road bonnet up/broken down; my accomplice in his MGBGT V8 still manged to limp to the camp site with only 4th gear before the distributor packed up so going home on a lorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nautam Mistry Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 My Spitty has a normal radiator with some of the front cardboard valances in a poor condition...despite this no problems so far in the hot weather....all good. As a precaution, my heater knob is on hot but the heat does not bother me as it dissipates well when the hood is down and it also helps keep the car cool. Nautam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 My GT6 didn't let me down once, needle in the middle of the gauge and no starting / moving off issues. A recent round trip of over 100 miles went perfectly despite the roasting heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 To be honest, I don't think my pull-away misfire is due to heat, although it's not there when cold. When I replaced the disi cap last year, it pretty much disappeared... for a couple of weeks. I've probably got a weak coil or tired ballast resistor or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Rob I have recently got possibly the same issue. Its only been like this with my GT6 this year, the only thing I have changed is to put new fuel in! ( not sure if ethanol makes an evaporation difference and has recently increased) I thought I might have a dodgy plug or something but that does not seem to be it either Coil is new last year although its a lucas Gold one?? so might change to a bosch and its 3 ohm system so no ballasting Again fine when cold, dizzy cap is in good nick and dizzy is well lubricated Again just at low revs it plays up but is happy @ 70 down the dual carriageway It was fine last year in france when the temperature was around 40 degrees ( although it did get pretty hot!) Can anyone advise on the model of the bosch coil I should get? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Thanks Aidan. I'm sure you're right that the modern fuel formulation has a bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted July 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 I think Clive had a recent link for a Bosch coil, about £20 I think. Can't remember which thread it was though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maff Posted July 12, 2018 Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 My mk3 spitfire has suddenly started to get hot, needle above halfway and climbing. Opening the bonnet reveals a spray of coolant hitting the underside of said bonnet from somewhere, nothing major but a bit concerning nonetheless. I drove it to Lubenham and back, 50 mile round trip, the other day and it was fine so wondering whats happened in the meantime. Is it just the heat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted July 12, 2018 Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 Radiator cap? Got a bit hot, lifted the pressure relief and once lifted takes a bit of time and temperature drop to reseat ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 Or thermostat jammed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 Yes its a cheap part often ignored never replaced as a service and once its been 'boiled' never returns to any calibrated settings It well worth replacing more frequently than most manage Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Twitchen Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 If you could not see where the spray was was coming from it is worth having the engine running and up to temperature then blip the throttle by hand, standing back of course. From past experience (Lotus Europa) this caused a small pinhole/split to reveal itself that closed up on tickover. Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maff Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 Thanks for the informative replies! I will look at getting to the source of the issue on my return from our holiday. Love having a classic car to tinker with! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 Mine's in the garage to stop the sun bleaching the paint, so no overheating problems. Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 Mine is running well in the heat, but the temp gauge only ever gets up to about 25%. Everyone else talks about half way? Will this be a faulty gauge, sensor or something more serious. New t/stat and rad cap last year. It could just be normal... but nothing else on this car is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 the gauges are a indication , not rocket science,, if its consistent and shows unusual changes then thats ok by me it could be wrong sender or gauge mix , low stabiliser voltage , wonky gauge .... bent needle ...skys the limit you know whats normal run with it and watch for any radical change ...or not Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 My previous engine never went above 1/4 unless it was really hot when 1/2 was reached. I put a new sender in the new engine which was a bit longer so sits in the water passage rather than being shrouded by the thermostat housing. And now it sits 1/2 way perhaps a smige above when the ambient has been upwards of 25. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 14, 2018 Report Share Posted July 14, 2018 Thanks. May get a new sender on my next parts order. Is the sender a set temp range or can you get various ranges like thermostats. Also (slight drift here), at what pressure does the oil warning sensor normally trigger the light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted July 14, 2018 Report Share Posted July 14, 2018 Afaik the sender for the temperature gauge is standard. The oil pressure switch is I think 3-5psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 15, 2018 Report Share Posted July 15, 2018 There are two senders used depends on the gauge type Early wavy needle moving iron not stabilised use 121997 And later stabilised slow moving needle use generic GTR108 They all used to be different coloured but thats not cast in stone ie ive seen red or green but most are just black now Get them mixed and you get very odd readings , normally too hot rather than too cold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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