AidanT Posted July 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2018 Update Timing is set just less than 8 degrees BTDC so with today's petrol this is what I had already set it to On short latest test just now once things got up to temperature the problem started to re-occur in 4th at 30mph it started to get lumpy when pulling away but was still ok taking off from start. I guess this is just the initial stages Will change the plugs and swap out the coil next when the coil arrives ! Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 14, 2018 Report Share Posted July 14, 2018 maybe this does have the ring of a plug playing up pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2018 Another Update A new Bosch coil arrived during the week, now fitted and after an initial road test the problem seems to have gone Will run down to Grantham later and see if it has finally gotten rid of the gremlin Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 21, 2018 Report Share Posted July 21, 2018 Dont mention Gremlins to classic cars they listen you know Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted July 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2018 Add on to the above, I managed to suck out just over half a litre of oil from the rear diff ( by gum that hasn't been changed in a while!) using an oil syringe and an old oil gauge pipe duely fettled together and replaced with 140. Ready to do a longer test run tomorrow along the A1 So will it whine and or judder.... We will see in tomorrow's exiting episode .... Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 So a good (hot) test today and the problem is still present. Not the coil then. In fact it's now probably worse with a lack of power as well as stumbling on acceleration Next is to swap out the plugs. New set been waiting so hopefully not take as long this time ? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 plugs, points, condenser ...the heart of all that matters leads and coils are lesser of a culprit then we start onfueling again dont you just love em Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 It's the fuel that worries me a little, although the symptoms are very odd I don't think I have got them down totally yet - they seem to be changing If it is the plugs I'm going to fall out of love with NGK as this won't be my first set this year! Any one advice on other brand options and their code? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 My favourite plugs are the Bosch multi-electrode ones. Used to be triple, now I think the quad ones are easier to find. I'm guessing that being a mk 1 you have the short reach plugs? Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 Hi Nick, Nope I'm running a mk2 2000 engine at the moment Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 All my 6s have 3/4" reach thought only early 4 pots had the 1/2" short reach ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 So. Another test in the heat with new plugs and that issue has now gone. However it would seem my twiddling has now made the car run very hot! I can only think it was the leaning off of the mixture, would that be a cause? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 Cant see that has any connection , if its running better then theres more power to use so by product is more heat But its been very hot and humid today, Running sick cammmake them hot ,, not runnning better Told you not to mention gremlins Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 Have you set the timing by ear? Far more reliable than using a figure at idle. Also does the mechanical and vacuum advance work OK (just use a strobe to check) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 Clive. Can you provide a step by step please. I will so this as well. I did set it to 8 degrees BTDC but that was not necessarily what it was before the twiddle start Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 Undo the clamp on the dizzy base Raise the idle to about 1200 ish Rotate the dizzy body to find the best fastest idle as you turn is anticlcock you retard and it slows turn it clockwise will advance and the idle will speed up At its best point go anticlock a bit so its less than best about 1/4" Nip the clamp slow the idle to normal do a test run If it pinks ...sounds like marbles in a tin can back it till it doesnt pink , pull hard in top gear at 40mph Running at 8 deg is maybe retarded too much raised the combustion temp and you have cooked the plugs that gave the missfires Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 Thanks Pete you may well have solved the puzzle then! I will try and follow the steps above. I assume the engine should be fully warm before doing this. I will drop it back to tdc and work from there. I have a twiddle device on my dizzy to adjust the timing so will use that. When you say a 1/4" how many degrees would that be? Each click on mine seems to adjust by 1 degree in timing Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 Forget about any settings just move the dizzy the results are obvious , you will soon get the hang of better or worse The 1/4is the outer body but its only a vague guide , you jyst dont want it set to the best always a amount of less than So if the revs rise to 1400 at best rotate to drop it back to 1200 this may seem a bit hit and miss but its what many of us do Stick with the 97+ ron fuel No strobe no bulbs just use the ears !!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 Sorry. But with or without vacuum advance? Pinking too advanced or retarded? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 Aiden, You mean the vacuum tube? I makes little difference at tick over. Turn the dizzy for maximum revs, you can turn it further, but the revs don't change. Go back to the first point of max revs, then back a gnats. Take it for a run, if it pinks back a gnats more,. Repeat until it doesn't pink, and there you have it, perfection! It's easy, it ain't rocket science! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 Doesnt realy matter , with the vac off you may go to far and reconnecting advances more than is needed It will only pink if its is advanced too far and the combustion tries to fire the piston backwards as the burn tales place before the piston can do its downward power stroke The vac unit is sucked by a small port next to the throttle plate so at 1200 1500 ot will be generating some advance This is not far away from whats happening on the road , dont worry about the vac unot, just nudge the dizzy anti clockwose in small Increments till you cant hear any pinking when driving Retarding at best reduces performance increases the burn temperature, overheats plugs etc lowers economy need more throttle to perform ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 Ooooo Pete! I love it when you talk scientific. db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 Beam him up Scottie Imcant spel scientifik P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted August 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 Just a thought - how important is the the compression washer on the spark plugs? I ask this because thinking back, I only seem to have problems when I have taken out cleaned and put the same plugs back in to the engine? Could this be something to do with seating? or could I be damaging the plug somehow just removing them? Aidan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted August 20, 2018 Report Share Posted August 20, 2018 The washer does not make a lot of difference as you would hear it if it was'nt seating right. If you have dropped a plug when cleaning them? Then you could have damaged the porcelain or simply shut the gap if not checked before fitting. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now