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GT6 Rear Hubnut Torque Figure


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From memory - it's 110lb ft, IIRC. I would unscrew the hub nut completley first and check the condition of the threads on the outer shaft. They tend to get stripped through successive bearing changes. After all they're 45 years old now. I would also use a new nyloc nut - make sure you obtain the correct spec item - it's quite a shallow nut, that allows the nylon insert to bite on the fully formed threads of the shaft - they're not fully formed to the tip. If your not experiencing rumbling from that side I would want to investigate the hub end float spacer and shims before re-torqueing.

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we did Gully's hub bearing a few weeks ago   littl bit of trial and error pre load to free play ,some measuring of shims and spacer and its done , 

longest job was pulling the old  race off  but paul bought a nice thin puller and ive still got it in the cupboard as area spares if you need it 

its still going 


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This is simple ,  if you can do the nut up its either been left undertorqured or loose 

I would just check its tight , the torque is not overly critical, if tightening reduces the play , then its 

Was it left loose

Has the bearing deteriorated

Keep the new nut for a potential rebuild 

This depends on is it a solid spacer and shims or has a collapsible spacer between the races

You cant crush the solid tube you can retighten a collapsible to reduce float

If you get windy about the state of the races then its a strip down to examine 

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