andrewr Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Morning all, I'm a relative newcomer to the world of classics and have spent the past few months reading up and speaking to some local clubs and decided a Spitfire 1500 is probably the cheapest and best way to cut my teeth. I've been to see a couple of cars locally that were all total rot boxes with shiny paint jobs, I've spotted one but it's a 300 mile round trip to view, car is in Southampton and I'm in Cambridge. Would anyone be able to quickly peruse this ad and let me know if it's worth the trip? http://www.mandmautomotive.co.uk/used/TRIUMPH/SPITFIRE1500/AETV91469833 I've spoken to the seller and they seem to have a lot of history for the car (old MOTs, service history, tax discs etc) but the only thing that worries me is the rust on the front suspension parts and firewall. Thanks Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Not really a problem. Most people do not seem to take as much care under the bonnet. The suspension arms etc never suffer from serious rust, a clean up and paint is all that is required. Likewise the bulkhead. brake fluid often gets spilt and strips paint, stonechips to the vertical area are inevitable. The answer is again a clean up, and for a car that gets used, a coat of stonechip paint followed by colour. That car looks like it has been looked after, a few extra gauges, light rocker switch carefully relocated and so on, plus wood door cappings. Whether or not it is a 4K car would require careful inspection. I guess you know the shortcomings of the 1500? as in can suffer from crank/bearing wear if driven too hard too long. (I have much personal experience!!) but if looked after are perfectly fine. So check oil pressure carefully when hot at idle, any funny knocking etc. That car also has overdrive, check it works etc. Otherwise it looks to be OK, and fairly unmolested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Oh, just read the thing about £2300 in 2010 on body/paint. Check for bodges carefully, and ask for a copy of the receipt. It may detail replacement panels or welded repairs. what you do not want is a car that has a load of fibreglass and filler. I trust you have read up on the usual rot spots? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Just checked it out on the dvla web site https://www.vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/ It looks OK, the colour's right however the MOT runs out on 5/3/15. I notice the battery has no restraining strap which is an MOT fail. I think those are SU carbs rather than Strombergs. Road springs look bit corroded/tatty, I got an advisory for that on my last MOT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewr Posted March 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Thanks for the quick replies! Just checked it out on the dvla web site https://www.vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/ It looks OK, the colour's right however the MOT runs out on 5/3/15. I notice the battery has no restraining strap which is an MOT fail. I think those are SU carbs rather than Strombergs. Road springs look bit corroded/tatty, I got an advisory for that on my last MOT! I assume it's ment to have SU rather than Stromberg, thought Stromberg were on US cars? I've made it clear to the seller I won't be buying without a full MOT Oh, just read the thing about £2300 in 2010 on body/paint. Check for bodges carefully, and ask for a copy of the receipt. It may detail replacement panels or welded repairs. what you do not want is a car that has a load of fibreglass and filler. I trust you have read up on the usual rot spots? So the "work" was both sills and rear 3/4s, plus a bit of paint tidy up, they do have a detailed invoice for it. I've got my magnet with me to check what is filler (or fibreglass/newspaper/sawdust) and what is metal. The areas I know to check are outriggers, sills, rear 3/4, floorplan, rear bulkhead. Anything major I've missed?! Not really a problem. Most people do not seem to take as much care under the bonnet. The suspension arms etc never suffer from serious rust, a clean up and paint is all that is required. Likewise the bulkhead. brake fluid often gets spilt and strips paint, stonechips to the vertical area are inevitable. The answer is again a clean up, and for a car that gets used, a coat of stonechip paint followed by colour. That car looks like it has been looked after, a few extra gauges, light rocker switch carefully relocated and so on, plus wood door cappings. Whether or not it is a 4K car would require careful inspection. I guess you know the shortcomings of the 1500? as in can suffer from crank/bearing wear if driven too hard too long. (I have much personal experience!!) but if looked after are perfectly fine. So check oil pressure carefully when hot at idle, any funny knocking etc. That car also has overdrive, check it works etc. Otherwise it looks to be OK, and fairly unmolested. I know the usual check for crank wear and knocking noises, what should pressure be? I have been told cold idle 40-50, cold rev 100, hot idle 20-30 and hot rev 50-70 I also *think* from the bay pic it might have been upgraded to electronic ignition as well. Agree on the price, I am happy to travel the distance to view as it looks to be a genuine car that will require a little work to get it back to glory, but I would rather pay a little less than advertised. Of course if it's full of filler I'll be walking away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 hot oil pressure 40-60 at 2000+rpm. At hot idle I reckon over 20 is OK, but watch idle speed is correct at about 800rpm. Cold pressure is irrelevent. Have a look at the oil too. Some people add thickeners to the oil to hide wear problems. Sills are a big concern, they are a 3 piece construction and the middle sill is difficult to check. However, if you pull away the carpet on the inner sill at the back, you should be able to see in if you use a torch. Likewise up through the sill drain holes. Also floor edge. Chassis give few issues except the bonnet hinge boxes. heck windscreen frame carefully. £2300 for sill replacement and respray is cheap......but you may get lucky. For a second opinion, southern Triumph are near there (or used to be!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewr Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Thanks for all your help so far, I've got a check list, magnet and torch so should hopefully be able to figure the car out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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