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GT6 rear rotoflex vertical links


wayne Rollinson
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If you just want the vertical links (eg for CV conversion basis) then it might be worth speaking to Canleys/Rimmers/Paddocks etc.  Although relatively pricey, you should at least end up with decent usable parts, whereas buying used sets from ebay or wherever that have been freed from a rusty wreck is a bit of a lottery as they are prone to damage in a variety of difficult and expensive to fix ways and it can sometimes take a couple of days to get them far enough apart to even see they are damaged.  I have too many of those T-shirts.

For roto shafts (inner and outer), hubs and wishbones I have various kicking about, though I am at the opposite end of the country.

Nick

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As a curveball, and as you are good with a welder/fabrication....and I think you are thinking CV conversion....

Consider the MGF rear uprights. Instant access to a far better bearing setup plus discbrakes. Chop the top balljoint off and drill/tap the upright to add a U bracket to attach the rear spring.

At the bottom you could fill the boltholes with weld or similar, redrill and either use the std lower wishbone and radius arm, or fabricate your own lower wishbone that wouldn't need a radius arm (no bump steer) Marcus did this, and I believe others have dabbled too. The actual driveshaft would be a Rover 100 (can't remember which one) and is effectively Mr Jones Cv conversion setup. A few bits hard to find but probably still out there if you are patient. Or you could always use a scooby diff.....Now I am being very naughty. (but it is rather good)

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Thanks clive I will check that out, I had indeed been thinking on the cv conversion, initially was just going to leave as is but after going the whole hog I might as well do it at this stage as wish i had done later, everyone seems to rate the conversions although I hadnt looked at the MGF one so will see what that entails, Regards wayne

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If I had the equipment/ability I would use the MGF upright, but would prefer a single long bolt rather than the offset. Not sure why, but would make geometry more simple to understand. And marcus's lower wishbone arrangement seems a very good idea. 

The normal rotoflex rear wheel bearing is not a great design and a faff to set up. (that will upset the purists!) 

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John I have just found a post with your pictures on this looks a good set up, I will look at Marcus's post as well for more ideas, I liked Nicks cv conversion but the price of the links and might be harder to find, I need to do some reading and make a plan thanks again, ps John did you do any documentation or drawings for your set up, many regards wayne

 

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Thanks John, I now have questions lol. looking at the cv conversion that nicks done with the gt6 uprights with two adjustable arms to the chassis, if I did the same thing to the MGF upright by machining a base block and shock mount above and setting lower arms up on rose joints similar to nicks and marcus's would this be ok or is the way you set up your arm a better or stronger way? I don't really want to go full space frame style like some others have done I want to keep the spit chassis, many regards wayne, ps I got a set of rover 100 short drive shafts bizarrely. 

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Point to watch with the MGF vertical link is that there is no natural attachment point for the damper. This is why John has engineered his wishbone assembly to include it.

Should be pointed out, if you are not already aware, that it's possible to have CV shafts without machining the Triumph vertical links or using MGF links as shafts are available from Rimmers, TSSC, Classic Driving Developments & Jigsaw that retain the original rotoflex hubs and bearings. There is also a way using a mixture of OEM Ford and Volvo parts (the way I did my first conversion) though the parts will be quite hard to find now.

Quite a few ways to skin this particular cat, all with pros and cons.....

Nick

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