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Caliper Boot seal Replacement


AidanT
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Hi Aiden

 

I did mine on the bench, and even there it was a flipping fiddle. in essence it is a case of getting the two lips of the seal located, one sits at the top of the piston, and the other inside the top of the bore. Although I could not find you a video of a 16P caliper, the trick as demonstrated on this video is pretty much the same:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t59DInB1Xio

 

 

 If you get totally frustrated to the point of chucking spanners, this lot are a good alternative: 

 

http://www.biggred.co.uk/index.php

 

Regards

 

Steve

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Thanks Steve

 

Mine seems to have a spring clip around it which does not appear on the video  -Looked at the Buckeye website and they show on where this spring clip seems to sit on the surface of the piston itself  I can't find any instruction on how this is supposed to fit - I get that the smaller lip of the seal fits in the piston groove but is it just as simple as using the clip to fit the other end of the seal to the surface of the piston??

 

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That looks like one of the later type, as shown on the Buckeye site, where the groove in the piston is wider, to take one of the wire clips, and there should be a corresponding groove on the surface of the caliper (visible on the buckeye pics) to take the other.(visible in the left hand pic of the three showing the dust seal, where the piston is covered in red rubber grease). Is this not present on yours? If not, maybe someone in the past has changed the pistons over? Just thoughts...

 

Regards

 

Steve

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What it says on the casting does NOT indicate the type. 

What you need to check is: 

The type of dust seal: 

16P use bellows seals that do NOT have a retaining ring/spring. 

16PB/M16PB have a smaller seal held by a retaining ring/spring. 

And, the retaining pins: 
16P use large (1/4") retaining pins 
16PB/M16PB use smaller (3/16") retaining pins. 

Bleed nipple heads 
If 10mm hex = inconclusive 

If 7/16"
AF hex = 99% sure not M16PB 


If 16PB/M16PB, then: 
Pads GBP144 or substitute (may need filing to clear) 

Repair Kit 519731 
Pad fitting kit (if required) GBK1002 

If 16P 
Pads GBP144 or substitute (may need drilling and/or filing) 
Repair Kit 601960 

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Hi All Thanks for the above

 

I am 100% sure they are 16P  I purchased a new 16P pin set, shims and pads from the club shop last week and they all fitted perfectly on the other side. The calipers are exchange units fitted at the last MOT purchased from Wins  

 

Steve - Thanks for the note  - Looking now at my picture on the other side I can see that there is a ridge that the clip is sitting on retaining the seal  I have purchased dome 16P boot seals so I will just fit them as a mirror to the other side - I will use the original clip as the kit I have does not contain any

 

Thx

 

Aidan

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Hi Steve

 

Did yours have this spring clip? Spent over an hour this evening and didn't get even close to refitting the new seal ! :( What a complete ********'d!!!

 

If you did have this spring clip one or if anyone else has fitted this I would be really grateful for a method to do it!!

 

Thanks 

 

Aidan

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Are you trying to do this on the car? That would be a right pain. Off the car it should be pretty simple, or at least it has been whenever I have re-sealed callipers. Sorry if that isn't helpful!

 

remember it is worthwhile smearing a bit of red rubber/brake grease around the piston under the seal, helps stop corrosion.

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I have taken the caliper off the. car but it's still really difficult. The spring clip will not stay around the seal I can fit the boot but the edge of the Galilee has no groove it's just a flat ledge and as soon as the spring is fitted it pulls off the boot I can't see a way a of doing it without some sort of special tool

 

Aidan

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Hmm, wonder if these are new callipers that may be slightly different? From memory I "think" there should be a groove of some description. Maybe the boot is not quite right?

Other suggestion would be to glue the seal down. PU adhesive would do the job I reckon....but really it shouldn't be that hard.

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Have you spoken to Winns about the early life failing of these seals ..

they should last a good few years if you compare the old seal with the replacements is the

lip to sit in the groove in the body the same moulded section

ifnit wont stay located it sounds like they are not quite the right ones

pete

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Hi Pete. Yes I sent Geoff at wins an email last night and hope to get in contact today. Hoping he will do an exchange as the seal clip has just come off as far as I can see and destroyed the boot seal. Will let you know the result.

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Hi Aiden,

 

Sorry for the late response, have just spotted your post.

 

I am sorry you are having such a pig of a job with this, it must be very frustrating. I am wondering (and perhaps "guru Pete" can advise here) if you have not got a 16P caliper that someone has fitted with the later type pistons? My train of thought is that it is usually the pistons which corrode, as they rely on a hard chrome plate for corrosion protection. This is why some after market ones are available in stainless. The cheaper route to reconditioning a caliper is to fit new pistons and a seal kit, and clean up and blow out the castings, rather than sending them off to be done or buying recon units. If yours are a "mongrel" made up of 16P castings and later pistons and dust seals, it might explain a lot. Pete - thoughts?

 

Regards

 

Steve

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Thanks all for your help on this

 

I have found a method of fitting the b*** thing that works OK, but unfortunately I don't think I have the correct seal either - I will post this tonight with some pictures so that if anyone else has this job they will have a method they can try!!

In any case my second option has come up trumps!  Geoff @ Wins International has kindly sent me a replacement exchange unit (The originals were fitted 9 months ago) I had to give him the exchange cost but I will get that back when I return the one above!! So Just the cost of postage really!  So all I need to do is fir and bleed the new unit  - Easy!  By the way has any one had an issue torqueing up the top bolt? The Flexible hos clamp that fits under my top bolt puts the copper pipe connector right in the wrong place to fit the socket!!

 

 

;) Thank you Geoff !  ;)

 

Aidan

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OK Final chapter!!

 

AS I said I think I found a way of fitting the boot if you have the same as mine with a clip holding it on to the caliper around the edges of the piston

 

1 Get together the tools in the picture - I used two largest blades from a plaster variable size hole cutter (Yes I did say that!) The larger was just big enough to sit around the caliper ledge

 

2 With the larger of the hole cutters finely grease the outside with copper / rubber grease

 

3 Stretch open the seal over the larger of the hole cutters and then fit the clip on the seal as it would normally sit

 

4 This tightened up the blade so stretching it open with pliers I then fitted it along with the seal to the right place on the caliper

 

5 Use the smaller blade on the outside of the larger one to hold down the boot  and the clip while you carefully extract the larger inner one ( again easier with pin nose or cir-clip pliers)

 

And there you go Fitted in the right place with clip!! :)

 

My only problem was it was not quite the same seal as the previous one although it did fit  !

 

Aidan

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