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Brake fluid moisture content tester


Pete Lewis

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My point is that silicone fluid is hydophobic, so won't absorb water/moisture even from moist air in the mater cylinder. Not so with hydrophilic conventional fluid.

 

Re fully synthetic oils, Kipping used to offer the advice that mobil1 was THE biggest factor in 1500 longevity, and they rarely changed the oil. Mind you, his fleet of cars were exceptionally well set up, and conversely driven like they were stolen by the assorted people who worked there. Poor combustion down mainly to poor setup, and short journeys on choke. Again a common symptom of  cars that are not used enough.

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25 minutes ago, johny said:

I believe moisture can get into our systems via the breather hole on the master cylinder. This allows air (and any moisture it holds) in as the fluid level goes down due to operation of the pedal or even liquid volume change due to temperature.

Yes, but there it stops unless...

The point is, silicon fluid doesn't absorb water, so the airborne moisture (which, being a vapour, is lighter than the fluid) stays in the air, where it's harmless. Conventional fluid can, and absolutely does, absorb that moisture straight out of the air and sucks it into the brake system.

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as we all know moisture can and does regularly precipitate out of the atmosphere without being near anything hydroscopic but yes we're talking about miniscule amounts in a brake system. However Ive never understood why the main car manufacturers have never supplied their vehicles with silicone from new.... 

With non synthetic engine oil my engine, which runs pretty well, comes out black n smelly so I wouldnt want to leave a synthetic in there any longer.

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6 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

...which wouldn't be either a cost or production issue, so they must know something...

Which is......

You must NOT use silicone in a an ABS system. It's all in the Buckeye Triumphs document, it's there, waiting to be read, all you need to do is, read it!

Doug

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This is from Opie's site. It implies silicone fluid is not a great lubricant for the ABS pumps. They also state not suitable for motorsport...

But I assumed it was on the bottles that it was not suitable for modern car braking systems? Or maybe it doesn't meet the same stds? Either way, in a simple braking system it should be fine (though I maintain that if using, ALL the rubber seals should be changed as they will have absorbed mineral brake fluid, and they don't mix, and gut feeling says that is bad news)

SILICONE BRAKE FLUID (DOT 5)

Silicone based DOT 5 was originally introduced to give higher temperature performance over glycol DOT 4. Silicone fluid also has other advantages, it does not damage paintwork and it does not absorb water.

However, silicone fluid is a poor lubricant and does not lubricate ABS pumps as well as PAG fluids. It is also more compressible than PAG fluids, which can result in a sluggish or spongy pedal.

It therefore requires special design considerations in braking systems. Further, because it does not absorb water, any water remains as globules, which can pool in low spots in the system and cause corrosion. This water can vaporise when heated under heavy braking giving a disastrous effect on braking efficiency.

DOT5 fluids are not recommended for motor sport applications.

 

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2 minutes ago, clive said:

However, silicone fluid is a poor lubricant and does not lubricate ABS pumps as well as PAG fluids. It is also more compressible than PAG fluids, which can result in a sluggish or spongy pedal.

It therefore requires special design considerations in braking systems.

I'll stick to the original recommendation; silicone has not so far been sold to me as a worthy replacement.

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Clive,

Yes it does retain air, I had to bleed my clutch 3 times over a period of a week until I was happy with it. Is this a problem? No. 

Dot 4 and the rest lubricate the system and to an extent will mask failing rubber. Silicone is not a lubricant which is why rubber should be checked/replaced before installation.

Doug

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Interesting debate on modern version versus traditional item. Much in the style of points v electronic or mechanical fan v electric.

As far as this debate goes on the brake issue I'll carry on as normal - not using brakes. Saves all this worry. 🙈

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The point is they do not mix. At all. Like oil and water.

So seals that have absorbed mineral fluid, will not absorb silicone. Where as fresh seals will, which is what is meant to happen. That is why it seems wrong to just change the fluid.

But either works in our cars. Pro and cons to each. 

 

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Cant see a problem with them not mixing but I have seen (expensive) recommendations to flush the system with silicone fluid before the final fill so as to minimise the amount of mineral oil contamination. Not heard of seals giving problems and wonder if there isnt some vested interest from a few companies in this field.....

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I have heard that disk calipers ideally need to bled (by sqeezing the pistons in) after running new fluid through to remove water that stays there, but did not know that applies to removing wheel cylinders for the same issue. What a faf !.

I have always changed fluid every 2/3 years without doing the above, but this implies it's maybe a waste of time?.

Thanks, Dave

 

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19 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Weren't we all advised way back in the day to change rubber seals before switching to silicon?

(Anyway Dave I've no intention of changing my engine oil for silicon.)

Yes, re the seals.

Me neither re the oil, Colin. I do use silicon brake fluid but I have to draw a line somewhere!

Dave

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Johny,

I replaced my brake and clutch master cylinder rubbers a year ago, replaced the clutch slave cylinder and put in DOT5.1 . 6 months later, 200 miles, I swapped the clutch hydraulic pipe for an armoured version and upgraded the clutch fluid to silicone. No problems so far.

When the weather warms up the brakes will be changed to silicone. I replaced my rear brake cylinders about 5 years ago and I will change the rubbers. Repair kits are £8 each from Rimmers,  probably cheaper elsewhere. I shall check the master cylinder rubber but I don't think 200 miles of DOT 5.1 will matter. 

Incidentally although silicone doesn't eat paint it does make it go dull, not a problem on the bulkhead really, but don't spill it on the wings!

Doug

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4 hours ago, johny said:

I think what we need is some first hand info. Can anyone who's actually changed over to silicone without replacing all the system seals give us some feedback please?

I've lost track of when I changed the GT6 to silicone. Probably mid-1990s. It developed a leak from the master cylinder about three years ago.

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