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iana

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Should be DL on the Com plate and on the V5 for a Saloon.  I agree with the feedback.

Sounds as if it may have been a data entry problem at the DVLA. Had that in the past, a Mk2 given as having a 1596cc (1600) engine. In fact it had it's original 2 Litre engine.

Dave

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I've always thought that silver wheels came on the 13/60, earlier cars had white; but it appears that although almost every Herald I've ever had had white wheels, some books, like Mike Costigan's excellent guide claim that all had silver except for the 12/50 and a few 1200s that slipped through the net.

Hub caps look ok but those are a bit... dull... silver painted, maybe? Add a nice set of shiny ones to Santa's wishlist for next Christmas. I can't see if your car has wheel trims around the hubcaps or if it's just paint, but your car should have chrome trims with circular holes - not rectangular. sometimes period aftermarket trims were added by owners and they've a different pattern yet again.

Mike's book is an excellent guide to our cars, but shop around as you can find it a lot cheaper than this one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Herald-Vitesse-Complete-Guide-by-Mike-Costigan/352592524131?hash=item521826f363:g:oOMAAOSw~61cWFm0

 

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Still clearing a few of the faults I’ve found, now found an unconnected switch, it’s the direction control for the heater, I can’t find and detail on where the cable fixes to, I’m guessing it’s somewhere under the dash.

This is a photo of the wheel

64B8C0FB-AD7C-48A0-8719-30A2789DAC07.jpeg

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Looks good enough; those are correct Vitesse / GT6 trims and now that I can see it clearly, if the hub caps are all like that they're good for years with a bit of polish every so often.

(Ignore my earlier post about the circular-holed trims; for some reason I mistakenly remembered the car as a 13/60, and had to read the earlier posts to confirm it's a Vitesse!)

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the cables from the heater control run out to under the dash above the tunnel , under the heater is a distribution box( use that idea loosely) itsa crude box witha flap inside is operated by the cable which has the outer ina clamp and the inner passes through a solderless nipple in a lever ( drivers side )

as you push pull the control it moves the flap to go from closed , feet , demist,  

the only problem is you need head under the dash and feet up in the roof  ,not good for varifocals or blood pressure,

the box is removable held on the base of the heater with 2 nuts , might pay to take it off and renovate anu degarded rubber flaps etc. while youre under .

have fun 

Pete

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Thanks all. Heater control fixed, may need adjusting again once it’s been used.

Hoping to use the car tomorrow to check that it’s sorted - I’m sure there’s going to be lots of niggles / adjustments to make. Could do with a good clean really do that’s tomorrow’s task.

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been using the car and it need a top up of fuel, the previous owner recommended using the premium fuels either from a supermarket or a branded product, our local Morrison’s stocks a premium, I’m checking out various other outlets, however is it worth keeping a bottle of octane booster in the car in case I have to use normal unleaded.(I’m guessing the timing will need tweaking to run on standard fuel)

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Best advice I can give is to run it first, and see how it performs. You may need no adjustment at all. There is definitely a difference in performance with the Super Unleaded / 97 petrol, so I try to obtain that every fill-up, and if I could find anywhere round here stocking 99 or 100 RON I'd use that in my own 6-cylinder.

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This is a topic that has been covered numerous times and provokes a wide range of responses.

From my point of view and in bullet point:

1- you need to use a decent fuel such as a premium grade from BP, Shell or Esso; I use Esso 97 in my 2x cars. That said, they do get a treat now and again with Tesco 99 Momentum which is actually cheaper than the companies I have mentioned.

2- depending on the RON fuel rating you may need to adjust the timing a couple of degrees perhaps; that is something you will need to tinker with or have it set at a garage.

3- if worried about ethanol effects and yes there is a concern, then use Ethanolmate or Millers VSPe - the former is cheaper in the long run.

4- you do not need to keep a fuel can in the car as there are plenty of high premium fuel garages about even in Cornwall.

5- one recommendation I will make is that you ensure your fuel hoses are PROPER R9 or purchase fuel hose from TSSC HQ who are supplying the excellent Gates Barricade item.

The above should assist and I see one comment has come in already whilst typing this. 

Regards.

Richard.

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38 minutes ago, classiclife said:

This is a topic that has been covered numerous times and provokes a wide range of responses.

From my point of view and in bullet point:

1- you need to use a decent fuel such as a premium grade from BP, Shell or Esso; I use Esso 97 in my 2x cars. That said, they do get a treat now and again with Tesco 99 Momentum which is actually cheaper than the companies I have mentioned.

2- depending on the RON fuel rating you may need to adjust the timing a couple of degrees perhaps; that is something you will need to tinker with or have it set at a garage.

3- if worried about ethanol effects and yes there is a concern, then use Ethanolmate or Millers VSPe - the former is cheaper in the long run.

4- you do not need to keep a fuel can in the car as there are plenty of high premium fuel garages about even in Cornwall.

5- one recommendation I will make is that you ensure your fuel hoses are PROPER R9 or purchase fuel hose from TSSC HQ who are supplying the excellent Gates Barricade item.

The above should assist and I see one comment has come in already whilst typing this. 

Regards.

Richard.

I was intending to use Tesco momentum if it’s at our local station or Morrison’s premium fuel. 

I wasn’t thinking about carrying a can of fuel, more along the lines of an additive to add if needs be. I hadn’t given ethanol a thought to be honest.

My car maintenance skills are very rusty, I used to maintain a Spitfire and a GT6 up until about 10 years ago. Just need to get back into it!

Checking the fuel lines is on the list of jobs to do, it’s SAE J30 R6 on the car. I also want to add a fuel filter as on previous triumphs I had issues with dirty fuel.

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15 minutes ago, iana said:

I was intending to use Tesco momentum if it’s at our local station or Morrison’s premium fuel. 

I wasn’t thinking about carrying a can of fuel, more along the lines of an additive to add if needs be. I hadn’t given ethanol a thought to be honest.

My car maintenance skills are very rusty, I used to maintain a Spitfire and a GT6 up until about 10 years ago. Just need to get back into it!

Checking the fuel lines is on the list of jobs to do, it’s SAR J30 on the car. I also want to add a fuel filter as on previous triumphs I had issues with dirty fuel.

Suggest going for Gates  Barricade and leaving R9 alone as there is a lot of fake around , I know I’ve got the T Shirt 

Paul 

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If you are using Tesco 99 you are home and dry - perhaps we need to send Colin some 😊

Agree, go with Gates I have done this on the Vitesse and of course an inline fuel filter is a must. Some owners place 2x filters, one before the pump and another between that and the carbs; it's a personal choice but certainly before the carbs at least.

Yes, sorry, I read it as fuel can (not sure why !!) but something along the lines of Ethanolmate or Millers as mentioned is a good idea.

Regards.

Richard.

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Well just checked the article in the courier, the hose on the car is not to the required grade, shame really as it looks new, so now I need to work out where there’s rubber pipe on the fuel line. 

Looks like the February offer maybe a good option then!

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I have mentioned on many occasions that the Gates Barricade fuel line should be on PERMANENT offer via the Club Shop. It is the only way, IMHO, to encourage all Triumph owners running inadequate quality hose to upgrade and protect their car from the affects of ethanol related issues.

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1 hour ago, classiclife said:

If you are using Tesco 99 you are home and dry - perhaps we need to send Colin some 😊

 

Please!! I'll send you the stamps. We ain't got it in any of my locals, I've checked repeatedly, walking round the pumps like a shoplifter scouting shelves, eyeing the CCTV cameras and expecting to be nabbed at any minute for petrol-worrying....... 

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I did an article on this subject back in June 2005. Sound like I may need to re-run it. I have copied an extract from it below.

When running a Vitesse on the present fuels which are available to us, there are two factors to be considered:

1.         The octane rating of the fuel.

2.         The lack of lead in the fuel.

The fuels generally available to us at present are:

1.         Premium Unleaded Petrol, 95 Octane.

2.         Super Unleaded Petrol, 97 Octane.

Let’s consider how the octane rating affects the Vitesse;

2 Litre Mk1 – This has the same camshaft as the 1600 but has a much higher compression ratio of 9.5:1 and as a result should be run on a 97 octane fuel. If you retard the ignition to run on 95 octane there is a loss of both low-end torque and power.

There are two ways of solving the lack of lead. The first being the use of a lead substitute and the second being fitting an unleaded head. A high annual mileage and/or high speed will produce greater wear to the valve seats and in this situation an unleaded head with harden valve seats could be the answer. Conversely the owner who covers a limited annual mileage and or drives at a modest speed may well be ok on the lead substitutes.

Finally to summarise the options open to us are:

1) Carry on using your original leaded head;

    a) Use Premium Unleaded Petrol 95 Octane with an octane booster and lead  substitute.

    b) Use Super Unleaded Petrol 97 Octane with a lead substitute.

2) Fit an unleaded head;

    a) Use Premium Unleaded Petrol 95 Octane with an octane booster.

     b) Use Super Unleaded Petrol 97 Octane.

Conclusions – Logically, the fit and forget solution is to change over to an unleaded head and run on super unleaded fuel. If you are carrying out an engine rebuild then I would strongly recommend the fitting of an unleaded head. However, if your engine is in good condition and you are not carrying a rebuild then it all comes down to your personal situation and preference. In other words you should consider the annual mileage covered and your style of driving, so I will leave you to choose.

Dave

Vitesse Reg Sec

 

 

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