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Compression springs


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Hi everyone, I’ve just started to install new springs on the front and wondered how tight are they supposed to be done up. At the top you have a cap then bush then the top cap with another bush and cap. This is followed by 2 nuts, how far down the thread do you take the nuts is it right down so they can’t be screwed on any further? 

Thank you 

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As I recall, the top "bolt" of the shock absorber has a small shoulder, so that you can tighten the top cap onto that without crushing the rubber too far. By implication, the two caps must have different hole sizes, unless it's actually the nut that hits the shoulder. It's a good while since I last did one so my memory is shaky. If that's right, you can tighten until it won't go further. If I'm misremembering, then you'd need a spec for how far to crush it, which I don't remember ever seeing, although it's quite possibly given as a tightening torque, probably quite low, with the second nut being tightened more to provide sufficient lock.

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I've not been able to find any torque setting or other instructions in any of my manuals so far, even the workshop manual just states the reassembly with no further details on refitting the top plate other that it's the reverse of dismantling eg keep the components in the correct order. I've always just tightened them until the rubber bush starts to distort, then locked it with the second nut; I don't think I've ever gone down as far as the shoulder. I'm going to have to run out and check now.

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Hand tight  its not a safety critical part when on the car just takes the load used by the shocker working

Yes it is a shoulder on the shocker shaft , important to hold the square head on the shaft when nipping up the first nut

Always check the cup washers lip locates in the turret plate  

If you must use a torque with no appreciation of good hand tight then at 5/16unf  use 18/21lbft      3/8"unf   28/31lbft

As good for general standard hard face fittings

Pete

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I'm with Colin on just tightening the nuts down until the rubber bush starts to distort. One lesson I learned when fitting new springs was not to tighten down the top nuts until the shocker is back on the car or else the distorted bushes stop the top of the unit passing through the top hole in the turret. There's a thread of mine on here from 25 Oct 2016 which has  a picture and a couple of other learning points on this job.

Wayne

Edited by Waynebaby
Addition of earlier thread date
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 No  it may just be the design  of the spring  do you have a part number ?? Or where purchased ??  

Hope both are same way up  ??  Most std springs have equi spaced coils when at  their assembled length.

Dont think you have anything to be concerned about  ,  just an observation ,  be interesting to see it when loaded 

Pete

 

 

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Is the apparent change in spacing a result of the geometry? The spring top plate is angled so that it's perpendicular to the shocker when compressed to normal road load. At full stretch, as in the photos, it's "wonky", which will make the outer side of the top few coils open up but will have very little effect near the bottom.

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I'm sure the vendor would have made a big thing of it if they were dual rate. Dual rate have some coils at one end closer together and bind (i.e. touch) when there's enough compression, shortening the spring hence raising the rate (poundage). It just looked a bit like that from the photo and I was curious.

Cheers, Richard

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On 24/01/2019 at 09:01, NonMember said:

Is the apparent change in spacing a result of the geometry? The spring top plate is angled so that it's perpendicular to the shocker when compressed to normal road load. At full stretch, as in the photos, it's "wonky", which will make the outer side of the top few coils open up but will have very little effect near the bottom.

Spot on! 

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