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GT6 battery


euan douglas

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and with ECP you have a huge advantage in that (a) you can reserve/pickup locally, and (b) more importantly IF the battery fails it is easy to take back. Sending a battery back via mail order sounds incredibly difficult and likely that the seller will then say it isn't a fault covered....(he says cynically)

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In reality I bet the number of warranty claims are miniscule as the manufacturers know pretty well how long the battery is going to last (usually just outside the warranty period), then I believe its got to be complete failure as opposed to just slow engine turn over and finally the owner has to find the original receipt after up to 5 years!

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The 057 is another option. It is slightly higher and you may need slightly longer securing rods. But the terminals are the correct way around and has a slightly higher cranking current.

I have a couple and they are now both over seven years old and still going strong. Maybe not a good thing to say!

Dave

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I have claimed against a Halfords battery (it got slow, but to be fair it did get fully discharged several times so I was surprised the replaced it! I think thesedays a clever tester would say NO). Also had a Bosch one fail at 4 1/2 years, and took it back. Issued a "credit note" thing as the shop had to send it back to be checked. So I paid for a new one, and if it was faulty I got my money back. Shortly after the shop went into administration. Money lost...

But batteries do fail more often than you may think. MIL had one fail after 18 months on her Honda. Replaced by the garage with no hassle. But mail order? Whole different level of grief.

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Good recent experience with Exide, less so with Yuasa.

My GT6 now has a Hi Torque starter jobbie, so suspect this requires less juice than the original Lucas (others will confirm).

I do recall back in the late 1970s when I first had the car, that slow cranking was not battery or charging circuit related, just a poor earth connection between engine and battery. The original arrangement is engine to body and body to battery which gives multiple opportunities for a poor connection, which causes resistance and voltage drop. Adding a second strap from engine to battery was just like someone adding another battery. Problem solved so check those connections !

Ian F

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The Lucas battery type numbers given in the 1970's for most Triumph's including the small chassis cars were 015 and 038. Unipart GBA3015, this was when Unipart was part of BL so makers part number. If I remember originally the 015 was termed a heavy duty version of the 038 i.e. higher capacity.

The originals did work well but most of us now go for a higher capacity battery because these days we use more electrical power.

Dave

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50 minutes ago, clive said:

But mail order? Whole different level of grief.

Works for me and mine. We've had no problems so far, but the depot's not far away if there were a problem.

I notice Amazon sell car batteries now, I do hope they're delivered by drone, can't wait to see that.

I've had two batteries suffer internal wiring failure, joint not properly made, gas, spark, BANG! Last time was on Peugeot 306 battery under the bonnet, so just unfortunate.The first was in my old Mini Traveller, battery under the rear set, now that really did surprise my passengers!

db

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3 hours ago, Ian Foster said:

Good recent experience with Exide, less so with Yuasa.

My GT6 now has a Hi Torque starter jobbie, so suspect this requires less juice than the original Lucas (others will confirm).

I do recall back in the late 1970s when I first had the car, that slow cranking was not battery or charging circuit related, just a poor earth connection between engine and battery. The original arrangement is engine to body and body to battery which gives multiple opportunities for a poor connection, which causes resistance and voltage drop. Adding a second strap from engine to battery was just like someone adding another battery. Problem solved so check those connections !

Ian F

As I understand it car batteries internally have ~2v cells connected in parallel and series to give current and voltage respectively. Then if a connection or cell fails you can still have an overall good normal voltage but on starting it drops excessively so giving slow cranking. Of course, as said, it can also be down to poor cable connections/resistance but on modern stuff that is less likely. Many times I have detected the battery deteriorating on my everyday cars by a slowing in start up and then subsequently leave it until it fails completely giving me loads of problems!

Theres that advice about making sure youre never exposed to a battery during starting because of the risk of an internal short and explosive release of acid but Ive never known anyone whose experienced it so wonder if its another of the many urban myths......

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51 minutes ago, johny said:

Theres that advice about making sure youre never exposed to a battery during starting because of the risk of an internal short and explosive release of acid but Ive never known anyone whose experienced it so wonder if its another of the many urban myths...…

 

3 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

I've had two batteries suffer internal wiring failure, joint not properly made, gas, spark, BANG! Last time was on Peugeot 306 battery under the bonnet, so just unfortunate. The first was in my old Mini Traveller, battery under the rear set, now that really did surprise my passengers!

 

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I found that cranking the engine was getting slower. Checked the timing and adjusted it to what it should have been, and now starting is so much better.

It is ever so cold out there, so every little bit helps!

NeilF

 

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4 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

Works for me and mine. We've had no problems so far, but the depot's not far away if there were a problem.

I notice Amazon sell car batteries now, I do hope they're delivered by drone, can't wait to see that.

I've had two batteries suffer internal wiring failure, joint not properly made, gas, spark, BANG! Last time was on Peugeot 306 battery under the bonnet, so just unfortunate.The first was in my old Mini Traveller, battery under the rear set, now that really did surprise my passengers!

db

What casing ruptured and acid sprayed out? 

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Johny,

Ruptured implies a minor occurrence, in fact it was an explosion and one end of the battery was blown clean off!  Both times.  So acid everywhere, the smell was also pretty gross.  It was more difficult to clean the Mini carpet and seat underside than the 306 battery compartment. The Mini battery was a couple of weeks old and once the seller saw the damaged battery they were very keen to take it off my hands and give me a new one. 

Doug

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I have a Halfords “3 year” 063 battery date stamped mid 2004. It still works though has recently been relegated to garage spare/test battery as not quite what it was. I got it used from a scrapyard at about 2 years old and it has mostly been in the Vitesse since. Does get trickle charged from time to time which is meant to help.

Sparks around the terminals of a battery that has been working hard are bad news. Very scary and dangerous if they blow up!

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as a science monitor at school , we joined up a load od glass 2v accumalators and were berning names in tin plate to make badges

been on charge all night and the discharge gave just the right mix for disaster

kaboom!!!!!  .  terminals stuck into the ceiling panels acid all over  the floor  and the only thing to save me from serious glass ingress was the metal banded strap/carry handle 

about 6 of these  in series image.jpeg.41ebfe54f0ba9c294d23db55a090dc69.jpeg

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With regards to battery warranty, yesterday the landrover battery failed after just two year, no problem life time guarantee from halford, I purchase this expensive battery as the LR will not be sold. So I thought never need to buy another battery ever again for the LR,  no chance Halford have stop selling that battery so had to take a 5 year battery.

Never seems to work for me.

Graham

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