daverclasper Posted January 29, 2019 Report Share Posted January 29, 2019 Hi. I don't think mine are seized as such, though this seems to be a common problem (Vitesse, etc) and difficult to take apart, due to corrosion?. Worth looking at next time I the rear up (no jokes), for preventative maintenance, as in, seeing if bolts can be freed and then copper lube. Or anything else to look for please?. Thanks, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 30, 2019 Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 Hello Dave, You are along the correct lines and partial disassembly to check such is a good idea, along with lubricating with Copperease. There is another thread going where another contributor checks his rear trunnion bolts every year to ensure free movement - I have also added to that. If the bolt can turn in situ then all is good, if it can move with persuasion all is good; but if it appears "dead with no movement" then not so good and you really do need to take action to free it up or else the situation will worsen and may worse case scenario require drilling out which Mike on the other thread may be looking at. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 30, 2019 Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 yes you must be able to move the bolt along its length not just rotate it to prove that its not rusted into the trunnion sleeve (I believe they now come in SS to prevent this). I dont think I would take the bolt out completely as it'll be hassle to reassemble so instead just tap it through a bit and try to get some lube in. While your there, if not done recently, you could grease the wheel bearings but best done with the drums off to check that excess grease isnt making its way into the brakes.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 30, 2019 Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 The way around to remove the trunnion bolt in full and to ease reassembly without disturbance to the set-up, is to tap it out using a bolt of similar length and diameter - that keeps the integrity of all the parts in situ. Then Copperease the removed bolt and tap the temporary bolt out as the original goes in. With the old nut removed, I would replace that with a NyLoc. As johny says, any amount of lube going in has to help keep the bolt free moving. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 30, 2019 Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 Yes complete bolt removal is the best way to ensure 100% lubrication but note on my MK1 Vitesse the radius arm has to be dropped out of its vertical link bracket to be able to tap the bolt all the way out.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted January 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2019 Thanks a lot. Mines a Mk1, so may look at changing the radius arm to Poly Bush (I already have them) at the same time, when weathers warmer, as car lives/is fixed on the street. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted April 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2019 (edited) Hi. Aside from radius arm drop, is it just jack up rear end, so suspension is at droop (to take load off) and remove wheels, to access the bolts please?. Cheers, Dave Edited April 29, 2019 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Hi. Had one side and rear of car in the air to change radius arm bushes recently and tried to tap the trunnion bolt out. It was stuck though I didn't go mad. Is this a siezed trunnion as such. Both axles drop to droop position when jacked up. Thanks, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Yes that sounds like the bolt is seizing in the trunnion steel sleeve and if really stuck can only be dismantled by hacksawing the bolt either side of the trunnion.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Thanks. Is that a problem as far as using the car, or is it like front wishbone bushes, that still work ok with siezed bolts, as the the bush tube is clamped tight anyway?. Would rather wait until I have remove drive shafts anyway, for some reason if I can. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Not really a problem necessarily. The bolt can be rusted solid into the sleeve but the bush still free to rotate, in which case it won't affect the function of the thing at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Yes as NM says no problem but if you could free off that bolt before it becomes well an truly stuck in place you'd be saving yourself a real #@%*! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 (edited) Thanks. Is it more difficult (if it comes to that). than carefully sawing through the front suspension bolts/tubes ?. Dave Edited June 19, 2019 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 No, not if you've got a good hacksaw. You might have to slide the blade through the link then reattach the handle, as I remember doing before. I spent ages sawing this one out recently, in order to make up a good sized job lot for sandblasting, only to find that for some reason the entire housing was distorted and bent beyond use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Thanks. Good to know. I did 6 of the front ones that way. Decent blades a must. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 Dave did you have to unseize the bolt through the rear trunnion - Ive just done the drivers side and it was really easy and have started the passenger side and its proving to be a nightmare - the bolts all seem in very poor condition and badly chewed, Ive managed to free the shock absorber and remove, the spring bolt is now free, however the tie bars bolts and the rear trunnion are another matter so any tips gratefully received. Im busy dousing the bolts and nuts with penetrating oil but Im not hopeful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 its generally cut through between the trunion and the upright you can cut the head and nut off but will then have to spread the upright to get the remaining stud out of its hole if you go down this idea make a spreader from studding and two nuts through the eye bolt holes to open the legs ( !!) pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 I will give it another good dose of penetrating oil and then think about cutting the bolt out, I need to go and buy a new hacksaw and some blades as my current one has had its day - can anyone recommend a quality blade as the ones I have are carp and blunt too quickly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 Irwin make decent blades and easily accessible - eg Screwfix. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 1 hour ago, iana said: I will give it another good dose of penetrating oil and then think about cutting the bolt out, I need to go and buy a new hacksaw and some blades as my current one has had its day - can anyone recommend a quality blade as the ones I have are carp and blunt too quickly Avoid carbon steel or even HSS. Best bet are the Bimetal blades. Irwin (now owned by Stanley) sandvik or eclipse are all decent brands. And the bimetal is worth the high price, they last! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 Ok after another good dose of plus gas, the bolt is still solid - I will remove the tie bar and see if i can get a socket on the bolt. Then its the cutting option - I guess thats the drive shaft off for that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 yes then you can really give the remains a good whack with a club hammer and punch on a vice or similar solid etc to drive it all out , Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 Assuming this is non-rotoflex... Rotoflex trunnion bolt seized in the upright is a horrendous issue if seized. Often means a trip to an engineering company to drill it out, hopefully straight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 Its a non-rotoflex, but its putting up a fight, Ive resorted to the 1/2 socket set and a breaker bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 1 hour ago, clive said: Rotoflex trunnion bolt seized in the upright is a horrendous issue if seized. Often means a trip to an engineering company to drill it out, hopefully straight! I can vouch for that Clive !! Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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