Dave the tram Posted February 6, 2019 Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 While refurbing steering column etc, should I bite the bullet and do the dreaded tunnel removal while the column, parcel shelf, heater pipes etc are out of the way. Several issues, but question is how likely am I to solve them. Probably improve the fit and insulation while I'm at it. 1. Jumps out of reverse unless i really hold lever in (tricky if needing to steer, backwards and uphill). Had a recon box about 10 years ago and more recently renewed bushes etc in linkage. I'm told its likely to be the spring and plunger that keeps it engaged. Can I get to these and renew with just the tunnel and extension off? If not I'll live with it for now. 2. Sloppy lever and goes beyond reverse block, so have to feel for 1st and 2nd. When i reconditioned the extension linkages some years ago, I replaced and adjusted the screw for the reverse block and got it working, but only just because it was the main extension alloy casing that was worn where the screw strikes it. Is it possible to get a replacement top, or is there another solution? 3. Reverse lights not working - probably be obvious once I get in there. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted February 6, 2019 Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 Dave, Getting the tunnel out is a pain, It's tedious but not difficult. I've never had to remove anything else to get it out, but it should be even easier with everything removed. Sounds like you've got a linkage problem, it's easy to do with the tunnel off. Rimmers have a refurb kit, £15, unusually cheap for Rimmers! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 6, 2019 Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 Is this 3 rail or single rail gearbox ??? I echo Dougs idea about the remote bush kit is needed, the jump out may be just lack of full engagement, especially as you have to fiddle to find where the H pattern is 3 rail The in gear detents are in the top cover , and can be re sprung if removed and stripped out , Single rail,is bit more involved , and will possibly need the rear extension and remote removing Do the simples first, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted February 7, 2019 Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 I suspect you may have the wrong top housing on the gearbox, a 3-synchro one on a 4-synchro box? they have different throws for the reverse. loads of top covers about. Also 10 years is plenty for the replacement bushes to go soggy. So that may be the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted February 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 Thanks, that gives me something to ponder. I think I got the recon gearbox from T D Fitchetts and would be surprised if it was a mis- match as it all worked fine for several years, then the lever went completely floppy a few years ago. Re bushed it then and it was fine again, but that's when I noticed the wear on the gear lever extension cover where the block screw strikes it. I'll lift the tunnel and remote extension, take some photos and see if sloppy bushes is preventing full engagement. Yes I see that Rimmers does an extension cover for £60 and Mick Dolphin has a used one (part no. 306152). Once things are apart I might contact him to make sure its the right one and in good condition. I'm no expert on gearboxes, how do you tell the difference between single and three rail. Its a late mk 3 with O/D and I'm sure I will have bought the appropriate replacement for the car back then, although I got someone else to fit it. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 7, 2019 Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 26 minutes ago, Dave the tram said: I'm no expert on gearboxes, how do you tell the difference between single and three rail. Single rail looks like the one in the photo; your gearlever goes into a short housing and then there's one long single rail coming out of the front. 3-rail has, as it says, three rails, but they're all internal, and the gearstick goes into the more familiar long extension cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 7, 2019 Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 it should be 3 rail on a GT6 , you mention wear on the reverse blocker,, that should be a harden plate screwed onto the remote casing , they can suffer some wear and with a little work can be turned over to start a fresh pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6M Posted February 7, 2019 Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 also, there ne syncro on rev, so ift rev idler is worn, an the gear too, then it,ll jump oota reverse some { most gears an hubs } are so worn, there nee teeth as such left so check yer gears an hub. rev hubs are hard t,get, rev gear aint so bad, though M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted February 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2019 So, opened it all up and: - the dished plastic washer on the bas of the lever is thin and damaged, but the big plastic bush looks ok. The rubber bush in the centre coupling was in bits giving about 5mm of play in this joint. I'm guessing a Rimmers repair kit will have all these bits. The hardened contact plate in the alloy casing is worn through - this is why I have to feel for the H. E.g. if changing down to 2nd, the lever will go too far left so that it can't be pushed down into second, you have to come back a bit and feel for it. Not sure if you can remove this plate and get a new one or need to get whole replacement extension casing. I'll aim to fix all this then road test it with the cover off and hopefully find nothing wrong with the gears or the spring and plunger on the selectors. It's a 3 rail box so if I do need to, do we think I can remedy the latter issue with the gearbox in the car? Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Foster Posted February 8, 2019 Report Share Posted February 8, 2019 Dave The plate should be replaceable (Canley show Pt No. 12307 - but currently unavailable). Someone may be able to find you one from spares stash or have remotes complete. Be careful with re-bush kits, quality can vary !!!!!!!!!!!! If your spherical bearing is in good condition and is the original nylon material, I would be very tempted to hang onto it. I have had one of the grey injection moulded plastic ones break up after about 4 years and a black (slightly soft) one break up after only 150 miles (and on the eve of the 2106 RBRR). These are stupidly cheap parts but failure can really spoil your day and the effort involved in changing them considerable. PS- make sure you fit the bolt at the base of the gear lever the right way round and use a new nyloc. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 8, 2019 Report Share Posted February 8, 2019 (edited) The kits often have the cup washer cut with a razor edges so it mullers the plastic cup very soon Dont use it or file it nice and smooth Then O rings in the kit are to seal the front shaft in the housing, that needs the square dowel bolt out and you wreck the new rings refitting the shaft best left alone unless there is a serious leak here The kit is universal and not all parts are used depends on age of remote. Having rebuilt gearboxes for years I have seen the plate worn but never punched through completely , It is removable I have turned them around to help selection. Pete Edited February 8, 2019 by Pete Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 8, 2019 Report Share Posted February 8, 2019 That one is amazingly well beyond saving; I've never seen one that chewed before. Chic Doig has replacement ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 8, 2019 Report Share Posted February 8, 2019 I wondered if that level of destruction was engineered by some previous misguided work to widen the gate ?? Its a heck of a hole , good bit larger than the adjustable stop post Just pondering Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted February 8, 2019 Report Share Posted February 8, 2019 Could a stop bolt (doesnt seem to be the one in the photo) have been in constant hard contact with the plate either through being too long or held hard over by the driver so that its gradually destroyed the plate through vibration? Maybe the plate isnt original but something made out of mild steel.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 8, 2019 Report Share Posted February 8, 2019 Just looked at spare and its riveted on early were screwed on, Make a new plate any metal will be better than the worn version even fill with weld and face off.its only a stop it shoudnt do a lot of work And doesnt have to last another 50,years Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 Yes I have to say the damage is strange. Am looking to get whole replacement extension casting from Mick Dolphin, once we are sure its the same type, as I don't fancy removing the old plate with it all being so mangled and fitting a new one. He may also have the bushes etc I need. Once back together I'll have a good look at how everything lines up with the pin and block plate. Also interesting is the wear on the dished plastic washer. It's not caused by sharp edges on the metal bits (although I will carefully smooth these) but is chewed from below by the end of the spring - pity there isn't a metal washer between them. The job that started with a new steering rack, then led to rebuilding the whole column, then the gear links while I could get at them - is developing a life of its own. While the tunnel and parcel shelves are out, I'm improving insulation and sound proofing, rewiring the radio, refitting heater vents that had fallen off......not sure where this will end, probably as soon as the weather picks up and I miss driving it. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 13 minutes ago, Dave the tram said: Also interesting is the wear on the dished plastic washer. It's not caused by sharp edges on the metal bits (although I will carefully smooth these) but is chewed from below by the end of the spring - pity there isn't a metal washer between them. Dave There should be a top hat washer over the top of the Spring. It's not in the repair kits, but if you look at the parts diagram on Canleys site you can buy them separately. Their dished washers are metal too when bought by themselves. Gully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 Excellent - will be these. Thanks Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted March 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2019 I'd drifted into anothrer thread on gear lever linkages, so will switch back to the one I started. Progressing well. Got a new extension casting, got the bits off the old one ok. The square headed locking bolt that holds the selector wasn't impossibly tight as expected, but couldn't shift the pin from the central fork coupling. Then found that I could knock through the smaller pin that holds the cam on the other end in stead, (for the reversing light switch I think). Got new O rings from Canleys and various other individual bits, new nyloc nuts etc and put it all back ok, including the O seals. Found the errant metal cup washer for the top of the spring on the gear lever in a box of bits that came with the car 12 years ago! I think the damage to the reverse block plate might have been a combination of several things. The bolt that connects the bottom of the gear lever to the extension rod was the wrong way round (as shown on some of my photos before dismantling) so that a section of the bolt threads protruded adjacent to the block pin. Once various things got worn, especially the plastic dished washer (and the metal cup washer was missing) the lever would start to sit high and the threads rub the plate. Things might have been exacerbated by my holding the lever in reverse with all my might while reversing up my steep drive from the garage, until I started doing it the other way round and reversing in, trickier to aim to fit over the pit, but I can just let it roll. Time to put everything back. Just hope that box of left over bits isn't fuller when I've done. The dog pays great attention and I'm certain he remembers where everything goes - if only he could speak. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 2, 2019 Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 sounds a good plan most things are easier the second time round .. and you have worn the Tee shirt out glad its heading for a successful reverse Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 2, 2019 Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 58 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: most things are easier the second time round Nope! I divorced that one as well. Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted March 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 Success, all back together and road tested before putting tunnel back. Nice neat H for gearchanges with all sloppyness gone, reverse block perfect and doesn't jump out of reverse - so as suggested, it simply wasn't fully engaged due to wear in extension linkages. The reversing lights not working was a red herring, one bulb gone, other poor earth - need to check them more often! Decided to do thorough check before fitting tunnel and found intermitent loss of connection in the O/D inhibit switch that I can't cure (loose and wiggly connector pin) so ordered one from Canleys - only 6 quid. Even fitted new accelerator cable and made a small side- extension plate for the pedal so that I can heel/toe (well sidefoot) to match revs on down changes when braking into corners. Never understood why a sports car wouldn't have pedals that allowed this. Thanks to all those who gave advice Cheers - Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 Well done Dave! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 Good when what seems expensive is down to simple wear and tear and good DIY fix Keep at it Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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