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Posted

Hi all 

Got all the carpets out in my 2500.  I was wondering if is worth putting sound deadening material on the floor, nothing too thick as the carpets won't fit very well. 

Any recommendations?

thanks in advance

 

 

Posted

Ha!

I also used Silent Coat on my gearbox tunnel, bulk head and footwell. Not very thick, less than 1/4", very heavy, but sound and heat reduced. Big difference on a GT6 maybe less so on a salon. 

Doug

Posted
58 minutes ago, Mad4classics said:

I always use standard sound proofing felt (the stuff that's black on one side), I like being able to remove all the floor trim - and it works well enough.

David

Same here. Bought three huge rolls of it at Stoneleigh back in the 1990s for £15 and have kept using it ever since (including on the roof of my estate!) . If you require anything especially waterproof for the floor (I find the felt very good for soundproofing and while my cars are all dry inside I'm not 100% sure just how waterproof the felt is when placed on floors) go to your local scrappie and get modern-day soundproofing from under the carpets of any scrapped modern; they usually throw it away so will sell it for pennies and it's completely waterproof.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Did the Spitfire 1500 originally have any sound deadening material under the carpet over the gearbox tunnel?  It's been so long since I threw all that stuff away that I cannot remember.  Trying to put it all back together now...

Posted

The sound deadening on the GT6/Spitfire is two plastic bags of loft insulation (?) stapled to the underside of the tunnel. Insulation on top of the tunnel with carpet on top will make the H piece difficult to refit, although I've seen it done. I used Silent Coat on the inside of the tunnel.

Doug

Posted

Ok Doug. Thanks for that.  I have all the plastic bag stuff on the inside so will leave the topsides for just the carpet although I may experiment with some strategically placed bits of silentcoat or underly. This interior refitting business is taking longer than I expected and the moulded carpet set is quite unwieldy especially for those bits on the inner sills. Maybe a bit of self moulding with a heat gun will help

Posted

cggs,

My new carpet is loose, trying to get it over the top of the tunnel, but under the air intake hose is a pain! And the inner sills! Oh dear. 

Doug

Posted

The big saloons should have quite a lot of sound deadening already fitted from the factory and (I think from the fun time I had stripping out and cleaning my car after a soil pipe in the ceiling of my underground car park broke and filled it with 'water') applied before the shell was painted.  Of course if floorpans have been replaced there's a good chance the sound deadening won't have been.

Posted
20 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

cggs,

My new carpet is loose, trying to get it over the top of the tunnel, but under the air intake hose is a pain! And the inner sills! Oh dear. 

Doug

This morning I have found that the trick with the stiff inner sill carpet is to play a heat gun over the back side where it is plasticised - it softens nicely and you can induce (mould ) a permanent bend in it, checking the fit as you go.   Working along the length for each bend at a time takes a lot of patience but eventually you have something that fits ok. 

Posted
32 minutes ago, cggs said:

This morning I have found that the trick with the stiff inner sill carpet is to play a heat gun over the back side where it is plasticised - it softens nicely and you can induce (mould ) a permanent bend in it, checking the fit as you go.   Working along the length for each bend at a time takes a lot of patience but eventually you have something that fits ok. 

Don't have that problem with loose carpets, it's soft enough, you just need loads of glue. My problem was the side piece was too short along the top of the sill, I had to cut the curve back on the door frame by about an inch. Poorly made.  Got the tunnel carpet in by poking it with  my new walking stick.  :(

Doug

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