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my 2000 diff removal


Pete Lewis
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well after plucking up enthusiasm to drop the diff on my 2000 mk2 to get at the input oil seal is not  one of triumph best idea's

the genuine manual doesnt cover Mk2 saloon  Diffs.    so the idea of remove rear support , split from the quill shaft does not work  the rear support is not removable  if it was this would be easy 

Ray and I fought it for some time and removed the 4 bolts securing the quill housing to the main rear sub frame  ,this does not get the hsg  out but does give just enough drop to clear the rear posts and with a hey and ho its popped off 'just'    fun will be aligning to refit without wrecking the leather seal   .

new bearing for the quill shaft will be done with the hsg. on the car , thats just a circlip and a bit of mallet work, there is no seal in the quill shaft its just a single row   Sealed bearing 

part two to follow later ....when the creaks and groans have had a rest.

Pete

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Just a thought Pete, but is the quill shaft bearing noisy?  A pal did the same job and changed the bearing for no reason other than prevention. 12mths later quill shaft bearing so noisy you would not believe :( Fitted an old quill shaft hsg and brg that was years old because it was that bad..... Still on 4yrs later. the new brg was GKN so not poo. Just a thought.

Tony.   

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Tony,

New bearing is RHP from CW  so hope its better than the poor versions available.

Changing as matter of course as diff oil leaking through the 'once was a sealed '  bearing so expect it to be rough

 Not got hold of the quill as had enough and feet up to night trying to find something on tv, thats another challenge for saturday viewing

Pete

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Agree with Colin. on both counts.

If the old bearing is still smooth-running, pop the seals out carefully, wash out, re-grease and refit the seals.  They usually survive ok until the oil leak is fixed and then die because there is not more oil and the grease was washed out ages ago.....

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Whilst the car is very solid with no rust , there has been sill work , the orig jack pins are not.  im reluctant to support the car on sills  and remove all the rear fame to get the quill bracket out ,  but may have to ,  wait and see

the quill is leaking well so seal in the bearing presummed shot and grease long gone

the new RHP should be sound quality   

day off today to recharge the enthusiasm .

PETE

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As with all things on my cars it comes down to cost; the GT6 has poly front and rear, all suspension, diff etc but with the TR I'm finishing the front in poly (better steering / less vagueness) but may leave the rear in rubber (albeit new as the original is really shot). It's open to debate at present as the poly bushes are really fit and forget, and a good selling point, but I don't yet know if the mileage I'll be doing is worth the extra cost. One big issue is the quality of new bushes - will they last any length of time? I don't intend to have to redo the work in a year or two, when the bushes have deteriorated due to age and not mileage. I'm almost talking myself into poly all round, here....

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Put fence posts along the sills to spread the load.

you don't have to take rear subframes off, just pull them outwards one at a time to free the extension housing, 

you may also need to lever them downwards when reinserting the diff assy. A large jack with a big pad on the top helps a lot.

cheers

colin

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10 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

the quill is leaking well so seal in the bearing presumed shot and grease long gone

Sure, but the bearing survives just fine on the leaking diff oil.  It only dies if you stop the oil supply without re-greasing it.  When I did my diff seal I also fitted a new bearing, but not knowing better at the time it was only a "modern tat" one.  That only lasted 2k miles before making such a racket I thought the diff was dying and took it all to bits again.  Then noting the knackered bearing and not having a new one to hand I dug the old one out of the bin  and it was still smooth running, so popped the seals out, washed it thoroughly, greased it and refitted the seals.  Problem solved.

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thanks, when i get the quill shaft out i can decide its fate, the rate of leakage is significant so the bearing integral seals were passing oil quite well so reckon even a re grease will soon be expelled 

the rhp from CW is looking to be the first past the post ,  

needs a good degrease and de underseal to clean up, new output seals and much faffing to get the quill out or leave in place still 

on the now what list 

pete

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just .....removed the short shafts to replace the oil seals ,  its beaten my sykes hydraulic and on CW he mentions you need a 40ton press to remove the coupling

well off to find a press.   just another one of  triumph masterpeices all for a £2 oil seal    GGrrrrr!!!!   well you can buy new assy at around £300 each   Pah humbug 

pete

 

 

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well 12 tons to get the drive flange off,  nowhere does it say its on a taper hence after 45 yrs the molecules get together ,

parts company with explosive force well  bang and its gone 

 

the seals are completely shot in bit  but only a dribble , should have poured out 

nice sunny afternoon to clean up and refit,  what a carry on

makes small chassis hubs a doddle

and the supaflex kit has the 4 cones missing ...they are now in the post ....but no rush for them yet

Pete

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popped up to my friendly Citroen garage , one of my flock works there so theres a bit of triumphism under the cover of lunch break

shafts now reassembled , and torqued up to 110 lbft

had to make a simple stud fixture in the vice to lock the coupling but its done and no pinched fingers or blood blisters .  

must admit i thought i had disposed of a keyway  in the wham bang removal pressing    but had i looked one was in a shaft one was in the coupling so    phew   saved the day

must try harder

Pete

 

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Well the quill shaft has a new bearing , old is quiet but filled with oil, needed my battery impact gun to undo the coupling nut 

And the diff is slotted back in just one snag one bolt in the quill tube is misaligned and refuses to re align

Used my transmission  adaptor on the trolley jack and with its table tilter , the diff popped on the quill shaft easy.

Much easier on a mk1 /estate or stag as the tail mount detaches , not on a mk2 saloon 

Guess thats a told you so but so far not had to remove the whole suspension .

Will  have a fresh look tomorrow,   

Pete

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ok its all done , dropping back on wheels re aligned the quill shaft bracket hole, and all is button up and no need to remove  the sub  frame 

i had axle stands on the extreme of the sub frame which i guess loaded the centre to create the ms match , had this been a Mk1 . or estate  or stag  then this would be a doddle we only removed them to get a bit more angle   so mk2 is the pig of the bunch.

as the rear mount detaches  from the diff gives loads or rearward to disengage the quill drive.  The  Mk2 saloon has a solid cast back mount , and yes the angle required to disengage the rear studs from the mount holes is significant but weve done it

whilst the quill bearing seems sound the result of replacing has cured an ongoing prop  type vibration and the whole drive line is much quieter

maybe just the new oil has rejuvenated the diff ????

time for a cuppa , this job has few nuts and bolts but has proven to be a bit of a struggle for us old timers 

happy days ,, i see some drives we planned start this month ,   

Pete

 

 

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