Martie Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 Evening all just spent the last 2hrs cleaning the old sump gaskets and sealant off a Triumph GT6 engineit seemed like 3 or 4 layers thick. What is the general opinion regarding the gasket? Sealant and gasket or just gasket? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 I would suggest both, and while the sump is off dress the bolt distortion in the flange where the bolts pressure the joint Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 This is what you are likely to see; Raised areas of sump flange around the bolts holes, thanks to DPO's previous over tightening. This is the tool you need to correct it: a piece of 1/4" steel as a dolly, but hardwood would do as well. This how you use it: Place the flange over the dolly in the vice, gentle hammer blows to straighten the flange. This what you want to see, a straight flange. OK, they IS a slight bowing, but that doesn't matter. A mere smear of a non-hadening sealant on the sump gasket, and when tightening the sump bolts they are 16lb/ft - that is only a little more than hand tight! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 For a sealant I used Permatex 80057 Super "300" Form-A-Gasket Sealant - very good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 And make sure you have the short bolts in the alloy bridges !!! Or they bottom out and strip the bridge, Applies to metal bridge mods, long will bottom out and not clamp the sump joint Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 I believe the sump threaded holes in the alloy bridge are actually open ended so will accept longer bolts (within limits). I realised this after tapping them to M10 in situ when any swarf produced must have gone into the sump, doh! Now I have sealing washers under the heads of the new allen bolts to stop oil leaking down the threads.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 think they are capped , if open ended then bottoming wouldnt be a stripping problem and they would need a sealing washer which isnt specified, think you have drilled right through easy done if upping the thread size . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 Heres one and yes if you go mad with long bolts they will come up against the main bearing cap. Otherwise its a good idea to use as much of the threads as possible and Ive used sealing washers cos I was getting oil coming down the open threads.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martie Posted March 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 So having tested every hole, the longer bolts can go anywhere apart from on the bridges where they bottomed out. So I’ve decided to put in new bolts at the longer size and use the original shorter ones on the bridges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 When dressing the sump bolt hole flange I would suggest using a nylon of wooden hammer. The steel hammer may spread/expand the metal (distortion). I tend to use the standard gasket + a silicon sealant. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?search_group=&q=silicon+sealant Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martie Posted March 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 Cheers for the advice on this guys, hopefully it’ll be leak free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted March 15, 2019 Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 22 hours ago, RogerH said: When dressing the sump bolt hole flange I would suggest using a nylon of wooden hammer. The steel hammer may spread/expand the metal (distortion) Roger You'll notice that I use a panel-beating hammer, small, flat headed (it has a ball pein on the other end), held near the head, for a limited-power stroke. It's tap-tap, not beating the metal into submission. You are right, or course, Roger, but this allows a finer control, IMHO. JOhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 15, 2019 Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 33 minutes ago, JohnD said: You'll notice that I use a panel-beating hammer, small, flat headed (it has a ball pein on the other end), held near the head, for a limited-power stroke. I had to look again, all I saw first time was the teacake box... so after that subliminal message, on went the kettle and all else went out the window. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 15, 2019 Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 Many years ago I managed to stop with the aid of a Land crabs towball when in my Beetle 1200. My uncle was a brilliant panel beater (he hand built a hard top for the Jim bereraq car with all the clamps etc - which triumph said couldn’t be done) and I have a dolly and hammer - and I panel beat the bonnet back into shape. It was so good (even if I do say so myself) that I didn’t need any filler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted March 15, 2019 Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 After Anglefire's last, I shall be accused of using Polyfilla for make good my panelbeating (see pic with teacake box!) I cannot recall why it was there, but I refute any allegations of ... well, any allegations! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted March 15, 2019 Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 4 minutes ago, Anglefire said: My uncle was a brilliant panel beater (he hand built a hard top for the Jim bereraq car with all the clamps etc - which triumph said couldn’t be done) and I have a dolly and hammer - and I panel beat the bonnet back into shape. It was so good (even if I do say so myself) that I didn’t need any filler. Wow. Is it in the blood, you are maybe inferring?. Did he coach you?. did you practice, before the bonnet?. Something I would love to be able to do. I guess look at lot's U tube and filter the good ones and practice a lot on scrap?. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted March 15, 2019 Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 No he never taught me really. I just gave it a go! I had an idea of the theory. This was back in about 1983/4 when the Internet was barely a thing. I made my axle stands at the same sort of time - I must take a picture of them when I get a tick - currently the car is sat on them! Tested to 7tonnes at the time. I've had my old Land Rover on them many a time - but that only weighed about 3tonnes all up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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