Car Lifts

[Clive]

On 15/04/2019 at 08:04, Bfg said:

Following various suggestions re. CJ Auto's  I looked that their website and was impressed with their 3-in-1 Tilting car lift. < https://www.cjautos.eu/NEW_3_IN_1_TILTING_CAR_LIFT_p/cl01.htm >  It would seem to be handy for lifting under backbone chassis, rather than under crusty cills (or in British English should that be sill ?).  True with VAT it's close to £500 but.. in the big / long term picture and seeing how it might ease and quicken so many tasks of restoration, and maintenance - it seems a reasonable price when, like some have said, their stuff is well engineered.   Has anyone here used one ?  ..and can give feedback.

Thanks, Bfg

 

If you look back I bought one. Well, this one (identical I think)

https://www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/09013-adjustable-mobile-tilting-lift/

Despite adjustable width, I couldn't get it is go under the sill seam, it was either a tad too narrow or wide. Soplution was to use 2  timber lengths across the car. These support under the sill, and also in contact with the chassis rails.

Once elevated and tilted, the front or rear were about 1.5M off the ground. It can be stored against a wall, unlike any of the other powered lifts. 

Am I happy, yes, but the ideal lift is difficult. You do not really want cross bars at all, as they interfere with exhaust/prop/diff. And ideally sills are not a great place to lift the car, as the chassis will be hanging off the body. (though on a sound car that won't be an issue)

If you are local to Brighton, you are welcome to have a look. Things are clearer when seen in the flesh.

[Colin Lindsay]

On 06/05/2019 at 11:06, clive said:

Am I happy, yes, but the ideal lift is difficult. You do not really want cross bars at all, as they interfere with exhaust/prop/diff.

Cross bars with rubber blocks to match the spacing of the main chassis rails do the job, or wooden blocks wrapped in non-slip rubber coating, as I've used here. Like the rubber blocks on Herald front seats you can rotate them to give different degrees of lift.

[Bfg]

Thanks Clive and Colin -  I appreciate the feedback.

Yes I can see what you mean about the cross bars being in the way,  both for fitting an exhaust &/or for when under the car yourself.

I would only want to lift under a main chassis longitudinal, as I don't believe the car's open-top body tub, nor its floor mountings were designed for that purpose. And in any case the  lift would most likely be used when I replace the sills.  I wonder if just 800 mm long is sufficient to prevent hogging of a old TR4A's chassis ?  ..perhaps when engine and diff are out and the panels, bumpers and wheels are removed.  Of course with acro's at each end then things ought to be suitably adjustable.

A two poster is the ideal but for one restoration, and my living in a rented house - that's not a realistic option.  If anyone has seen something more practical and cost effective then I'd be glad to hear of it.    or otherwise if one hears of a second-hand one up for sale.

Re-reading the earlier posts I was wondering about the mobile axle stands, as discussed by Richard.  I'll have to look into those, and then there's the scissor lift  but that comes out at  £1200 inc Vat and delivery.

Pete

[ahebron]

And make sure it will fit under your car.

Height isnt so much of a bother as you can drive up on wee ramps but width can be a problem as our Triumphs have a narrow track compared to the modern cars these hoists are designed for.

Adrian

 

[Bfg]

Thanks Adrian,

I do look forward to the day the car can 'drive up on the wee ramps' under its own steam.  In the meantime however ..

[Adrian]

Hi Pete

I've been considering a lifting solution for the GT6 as it's a lot of faffing to get it high enough to work underneath, especially if the wheels are off. Just wondering what feedback you have on your choice?

I have limited space so no pillar lift.

Thanks

 

Adrian

[ahebron]

As an aside to this I have been using my scissor lift a lot during the last 3 months and it has been invaluable.
But due to our wee Triumphs being narrower than most modern cars I have had to use it sideways under the Vitesse as the hoist is wider than the track.
Fortunately this has been of benefit as when not being worked on the car sits on 4 wheel jacks and slides against the wall and the hoist slides back to the same wall under the car. The bit that sticks out is covered by a motorbike parking over it so no one trips.
Mechanically there is nothing I cannot reach when it is on the hoist and the car sits on rubber lifting pads at the junction of the front outriggers and the main rails and at the rear side outriggers and the main rails.
Just being able to lift the car makes working on, in and under it a lot easier as bending over is reduced. Plus if need be it can lift it over 1m so it is easy to sit under the car to work on it.

Adrian

[Bfg]

Hi Adrian,

The TR4A  I was trying to buy fell through after a year of being inadvertently mucked around. And then just two weeks ago I was given notice by the landlady to move out of my home (16 years here and bike and car hobbies so a lot of stuff to clear) ..bottom line :: my owning a Triumph cannot now happen ..at least any time soon.

However, given the single garage space I have and the reality that I could really have done with something flexible (ie. lifting all the car, or from one end, or from one side) without framework or bridges being in the way (for example best access for when welding / painting the chassis, replacing the exhaust, etc.)..  I figured the best thing I might do is to invest in a pair of decent low-profile but high-lift trolley jacks (race-crew lightweight aluminium ones would have been great but they are very expensive !)  and then as n' where required to make myself a selection of beams..  specific to lift under different parts of that car. 

The obvious one would be a channel section to lift along the whole length of the sill, and then another to lift the chassis members under the front of that car,  ie. purpose made with location blocks that fit the chassis and clear its engine / ancillaries.  These 'beams' would follow the general principle of those used with a garage ramp.  ie. a beam with various interlocking blocks to fit where the underside of the car is not flat.  The various beams would be in steel and compact in dimension to lessen their obstruction, and then the custom designed (interlocking) blocks could easily be made out of timber (perhaps with ribbed rubber mat glued and stapled onto them).  The 'combination jacking and tilt set '  would be purpose made to fit that TR4A  and be as flexible to lift or tilt as I need ..even when parts of the body tub or chassis weren't there (eg. as the sills were being replaced), but then also convenient to hang on the wall or in the roof beams when not in use. 

Naturally I would take inspiration of how and where to lift from those who design & sell scissor and other car lift, tilt and rotisseries like Eastwood and CJ autos.   But I convinced myself that from the basis of just two low-profile high-lift trolley jacks I could make and evolve a set of lifting beams & pads which actually fitted this Triumph, and in practice was less obtrusive and perhaps more useful for all sorts of restoration tasks when the car was less than whole &/or needed turning to a more accessible angle. Just-perhaps it might also work out less expensive than an off the shelf lift / rotisserie and the trolley jacks too.  

oh yes, I'd also make jack-stands from interlocking timber blocks too.  

Pete.