Mike Lester Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 I noticed something the other day, my GT6 slouches to one side (drivers side). Suspension fully rebuilt and it has settled in the months since I did it, but is very slouchy. Now I did change the front anti roll bar drop links for new ones and now people are telling me the new rubber components are a bit crap and the preload is all wrong, causing cars to sometimes slouch to one side or the other. Would these help? http://www.wolfitt.com/wolfitt_products_1.htm#Anti%20roll%20bar%20drop%20links%20-%20rod%20end%20conversion It's more of an annoyance than an actual problem. It just makes the car look a bit weird when seen front on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Disconnect the ARB at one end, drive it settle and have a look. That can eliminate it as an issue. These leans are a nightmare to track down (familiar story) and can be front or back. So next challenge is to jack the car centrally at the front, check the lean at the rear, then jack the back up. Once you have found which end is playing up, the fun begins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 the kit wont help , you could adjust them to equal up a bent/twisted bar , thats not what there are for if you lowered the suspension the orig rubbers would not articulate enough to accomodate angular changes, on a std suspn they are somewhat a waste of money. do as Clive says to find if its fron or back but following a re build its no guess, bent bars are common, if the lean is front, then any load on the joint when you detach it shows it has a twist. when jacked front /rear get tape and measure coil spring lengths , spring pads etc Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lester Posted April 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Okay, I'll check if it's front or back first, then disconnect the ARB if it's the front and see if it helps. If it is a bent ARB at least there's a silver lining; it'll nudge me into getting a swing spring conversion with thicker ARB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 If you have the early thin one they are prone to get a torsional twist you dont need a swinger , just fit the bar then see if you realy want a swinger pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 If you have the early thin one they are prone to get a torsional twist you dont need a swinger , just fit the bar then see if you realy want a swinger pete Pete, Canley website recommends not fitting the thicker anti-roll bar if not doing the swing spring conversion as it promoted understeer. http://www.canleyclassics.com/suspension-steering-and-brakes/swing-spring-conversion-kits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 I used a thickun and the courier rear spring and if the geometry is correct runs like on rails convinced that much poor handling comes from modifying the suspension and missing the vital basics of geomerty resetting after the work rimmers only sell the thicker bar as fitted to 'later car' as a upgrade !! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lester Posted April 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Well, good news and bad news. Good news; there's nothing wrong with my ARB. The front is not at fault. Bad news; the rear is at fault and it looks like the leaf spring is to blame. I rebuild the spring at the same time I did the rest of the suspension, adding new nylon thrust buttons and being careful to keep all the leaves in the same orientation. Mounted it to the diff and bolted it down firmly. But it looks like one side is higher than the other (two bolts further down than the other two) where it mounts to the diff, making one side slightly higher. Bear in mind it only sits 1cm higher on one side, it's not a lot. Tried to tighten up the other side of the diff mounting bolts after taking load off the spring but all four are as tight as they'll go. Soooo... *helpless shrug* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 both drive shafts are the same length ??? just tape measure the shaft relative quick trial rotate the spring os/ to n/s it may even up any diff mount oddities Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lester Posted April 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 After further research, I am definitely switching to a swing spring. Someone in the distant past has put the correct ratio differential for the overdrive on it, but it's a four stud differential. Then they refitted the fixed spring to it!! Yes, you heard me. Four stud fixed spring. Not six. I should find the previous owner and have a "quiet word" for making something so bloody dangerous. No wonder I couldn't get the correct clamping force on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 It isn't that much of an issue, the main one being the cast spring plates can crack. But you will appreciate the advantages of a swing spring. Just get a decent one. Easier said than done though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 when we took the swinger off the vitesse 4 hole diff to fit a courier unit it was easy to use the clamp plate as a jig to drill 8.3mm x22mm into the case with a battery drill and tap 3/8"unf it wont break through. get the plate the right way round or the holes will be offset 180deg who said that !!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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