Colin Lindsay Posted May 11, 2019 Report Share Posted May 11, 2019 Do you need to build up any gaps with washers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted May 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2019 I just use one copper washer on each to seal. The pedal seems a bit soft (firms up after 2 pumps) so I’ll try the method of wedging the pedal down for a period. adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted December 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2020 Morning Chaps I'm opening up this old conversation again after a period of inactivity with the cars because it follows on. Brake pedal spongy, firms up with pumps but does not stop the car. Trawlled the usual mini forums and general comments are air trapped in the master cylinder, compensator valve or calipers (calipers are the right way up). General guidance is to start at Master and crack seals and replace with bleed nipples and systematically bleed to try to ID air lock. Then work way down the system. So my question is do you have to detatch these components to twist to dislodge any air locks during bleeding? Because I can't see any advantage to leaving them in situ as normal bleeding (used ezibleed) would otherwise disslodge an air lock....wouldn't it? NB system was off the car for approx 6 months prior to rebuild. Cheers Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 7, 2020 Report Share Posted December 7, 2020 does the Mcyl push rod have some small fee play,with foot off, if the pedal is not fully returning then recouperation from the reservoir doesnt work you get a soft pedal and you wont bleed effectively look at the simple first Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted December 7, 2020 Report Share Posted December 7, 2020 Hi Adrian, first job is to clamp all the flexi hoses. Good pedal it's not the m/cyl. Release one clamp at a time if pedal is ok, go to the next and so on until you find which wheel/s is causing the problem. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted December 7, 2020 Report Share Posted December 7, 2020 Just now, poppyman said: Hi Adrian, first job is to clamp all the flexi hoses. Good pedal it's not the m/cyl. Release one clamp at a time if pedal is ok, go to the next and so on until you find which wheel/s is causing the problem. Tony. Pete has beat me again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted December 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2020 I put braided hoses on so can’t clamp. Will look at any play but initially I was thinking it could probably do with a new MC anyway, pretty sure it’s the original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham C Posted December 8, 2020 Report Share Posted December 8, 2020 Did you say it was a tandem system, so have you activated the safety system by over pressing the brake pedal when breeding it, with full pressure on the pedal. From having a mini with a tandem system I never press the pedalling halve way. From memory the shuttle has to be reset, this can be done by moving the fluid reservoir. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted December 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2020 I used an eazibleed but have since pumped the pedal. If I’m correct to move the fluid reservoir and check for the push rod play I’ve got to tackle that darn Clevis pin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 if you can get at the push rod (inside the car) just give it a prod it should give a rattle as the end of the P/rod floats about a little in the entry of the cylinder ie just to make sure the pedal is fully returning the pedal back stop may be adjustable by a stop or a brake switch sorry long time since i played with a mini Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 10 hours ago, Adrian said: I used an eazibleed but have since pumped the pedal. If I’m correct to move the fluid reservoir and check for the push rod play I’ve got to tackle that darn Clevis pin! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-MINI-BRAKE-AND-CLUTCH-CLEVIS-PIN-FITTING-TOOL/171557947598?hash=item27f1a688ce:g:n~MAAMXQY8JRgtSo Use one of these and replace split pin with "R" clip Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 32 minutes ago, poppyman said: Use one of these and replace split pin with "R" clip Easy enough to make a tool. I put details and photos of mine on the Mini Forum some time ago. I'll see if I've still got the photos. It certainly makes refitting the pin easier, and as Poppyman says use an 'R' clip rather than a split pin, after all it might be you that has to take it out again at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 5 minutes ago, PeterH said: I'll see if I've still got the photos. Found them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted December 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 Nice tool! never thought of that....where's the hacksaw! Fortunately I used an R clip ! Climbing on my head again - hope the physio on my shoulder allows me to lift my arm to test the pushrod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poppyman Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 I bought one 30plus years ago, surprising how often it get used. The ready made one's have a sping clip that holds the pin so it can be used inverted. The one Peter made is fine for the mini job though. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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