That was a year that was..

[JohnD]

I think BFG is working on a TR4 engine, Clive.

[thescrapman]

Left hand one looks like a 2000 or 2.5S flywheel.

I can get some measurements to match if needed

[Bfg]

9 minutes ago, thescrapman said:

Left hand one looks like a 2000 or 2.5S flywheel.

I can get some measurements to match if needed

I was thinking TR6 but I might only guess I'm wrong.   It's ring gear is 11-7/8"  tip of tooth diameter, and approximately 1-1/4" thick (excluding dowels).

Conversely the TR3's  ring gear is 11-5/8"  tip of tooth diameter.  And I'm guessing the TR3 and TR4, and therefore the TR6 are the same diameter, as the 4A and TR6 clutch are the same. 

So I'd say you're probably on the ball.     I'll take it along to the next TSSC meeting at the Sorrel Horse. I'm sure someone will confirm or otherwise. 

Thanks,  Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

3 hours ago, JohnD said:

I think BFG is working on a TR4 engine, Clive.

If that's me you're replying to, John - yes, I know that it's a TR4 but the problem is identifying the odd flywheels. The photos are for illustration purposes only to show mounting holes / PCD!

The one I reckon is saloon (might be 2000, Pete) looks very like the original flywheel that I had on my GT6, it had an ME prefix engine so 2000 saloon. It's immensely heavy but very smooth when running - the pic shows the thickness compared to the GT6 one I took off an old Mk2 and which I replaced it with.

 

[Bfg]

^ Thanks guys.

I'll assume it to be a Triumph 2000 flywheel and take it along to the next TSSC club meet, in the new year, to see if that might be confirmed. 

 

For a couple of hours this afternoon, I started into the first of many dirty jobs . .

^ second scrub

 

^ The combustion chambers of cylinders 3 and 4. The latter being the one which had been full of flaky rust.  Assuming the exhaust seats (..and the valves ?)  are replaced when going unleaded, then I think only #4 inlet valve need be swapped out for one which is not pitted with rust. Perhaps I can find a good used one to save a few quid.

And although the pitting in this combustion chamber will result in that cylinder have a very slightly different swirl,  volume and therefore compression ratio - I'm guessing it'll not make a huge difference for a standard road car.

I'll have the cylinder head pressure tested, but I wonder what will the engineering company need from me (aside from the head itself) to do this ? 

Might I also ask - should I use a chemical rust treatment inside the water jacket & thermostat housing.  And then, after the head has been pressure tested - what's best to paint it with.?  I have POR15  ..but haven't checked to see if that's suitable for this application and the temperatures involved.  The same question will apply to when I pull the cylinder sleeves out and wish to treat the block's water jacket.  

Thanks, Pete.  

[thescrapman]

POR15 not suitable as you will have no rust to paint over!

 

[Bfg]

.

This afternoon I continued cleaning ' stuff '.  One thing I was concern about was the wear in the oil pump. .

^ this is the oil pump and strainer before I took it off so that I might clean inside. 

^   And the (external) oil filter - after a first clean, while still fitted to the block. But then put aside in a work tray.

^ After a good scrub, and with the gauze strainer removed I thought it prudent to mark which way around the pump's cap was fitted.  Centre punch was hardly visible on the cast iron surface so I just opened those out with a 3mm drill, not at all very deep. 

Yeah OK., in retrospect ;  the base of the pump points which way the cap goes !  Sometimes I just can't see the obvious for all the crud. 

moving on . . .

^ four 1/2" AF hex head screws secure the cap. Inside there's just the spindle and rotor.

 

^ cleaned up sufficiently to handle and measure ..and man were they filthy !  oil pump parts and drive in the left hand tray and the oil filter housing and can in the right.

- - -

The oil pump is visually assessed to ensure there's no scoring or otherwise damaged bits, and then checked for wear with four measurements. 

The first measurement is to place a straight edge diagonally across the case (not on the screw holes but next to those on each diagonal), and then to measure from that straight edge to the top surface face of the rotor and spindle, with feeler gauges.  This should not exceed 0.004" (Haynes manual says 0.005").   Incidentally, a new pump is within tolerance with 0.0025" end float.  Mine was at 0.004" on one side and 0.005" on the other. This can be corrected by ensuring the cap is perfectly smooth and then taking the top edge of the housing down.  I recently did this on my Norton Commando's oil pump, rubbing the surface down on emery paper laid on a flat surface. I took that down to a little less than 0.001" clearance.   

The second measurement (below) is between the tip of the spindle's vane to the rotor.  I did this four times ..to check each tip.

^ the maximum acceptable clearance (wear) is 0.010". Each of mine were 8-1/2 to 10 thou. ..so not brilliant and only just within tolerance. I then turned the rotor over in the housing and this reduced by 0.001".    I would be interested to know what this tolerances were when new.?  

The third measurement, I don't see in the book but is mentioned in 'dimensions and tolerances', and that's the clearance of the spindle shaft within the body, which should be 0.001" - 0.003".   It's not easy to measure accurately in the spindle versus the pump body's hole  ..but the spindle can be rocked a little while doing the (above) spindle tip to rotor measurement.  This one rocked by a difference of about 0.0015"  as best I might measure it.  ie., plus or minus 3/4 thou at the top of the spindle vane.  I'll take that as being well within tolerance.  Again according to the specs, a new pump might have 0.003" clearance between the spindle and the bore it sits in.!

And then the fourth measurement is between the rotor and the pump housing (below) ..

^ this should not exceed 0.010" (Haynes manual says 0.008").  Mine was 0.005" so comfortably within tolerance.  Oddly a new pump is within tolerance if this is 0.0075"

I'm now faced with that contemporary chestnut of,  sticking with the O.E. but part worn pump, or to buy a replacement quality after-market part ?    I must admit.., with the tolerances possible (according to the Triumph workshop manual) within a new pump - I can't see much benefit in buying a replacement ..unless I could go to the store and measure it for size (before purchase) - and then I might buy a new spindle and rotor.  But I don't suppose that would be wholly agreeable.?

So be it.  I'm quite sure after I reduce the end float of this pump to 0.001" or less,  and then only ever used SAE40 or 50 weight engine oil and a good oil filter - this pump would give good pressure for many a year.   Also it's not difficult to remove and refurbish it ..any other time the sump is off.  

Pete.

 

p.s.  Is it just me, or does the following from one of our best known international suppliers, not instill confidence. ?

[poppyman]

I would stick with the old one Pete, it's well within tolerances.  

Tony.

[Bfg]

.

For the post-war Sunbeam motorcycles I ride - I prefer to use Morris Oils of a straight SAE40w. I have tried 20/50w but they are then discernibly noisier, and I relate rattles to not being good.  As I now do not ride when temperatures drop to very low single figures  I can't see the advantage of using a winter weight engine oil, in our now milder temperate climate. My inclination is to use that same oil in this engine.

But, might I ask what are the forum's thoughts on engine oil, for this long stroke 4-cylinder engine ..for normal road use ? 

[Bfg]

On 15/12/2019 at 20:36, Colin Lindsay said:

I've been thrown a bit of a curveball in that the engineer who was to do my block work has had a close family member taken ill - it's going to be a long term thing so they're not taking in any new work as of now. The other company I'm now looking at - Comiskey Engineering, Portadown have quoted me £200 to bore the Herald engine block BUT - when they offered to supply pistons and rings, and I mentioned that I had NOS originals, they informed me that the price would be higher if I used my own.

Colin,  I just asked a local company ;  J.D.Robertson & Co, Colchester ..who have a good reputation and are very helpful / friendly to talk to  - for a price of a rebore on a 4-cyl Herald engine.  And that is  £112 + VAT  ..and you supply the pistons.   And for my 4-cylinder TR engine they quoted £16 + VAT for each crank journal, whether for big end, mains, or oil seal.  

How much is it to send your stripped out engine block to them & get it back ?

Pete.

[Bfg]

.

Postie's arrived

Three piece clutch kit : TR4A-5-250.  GCK6004X.  £99 (inc VAT and post) was the best value I spotted this week., from Midland Sport & Classics (..and on ebay).

^ assuming I use this TR3 flywheel, it'll give the engineering company something to do - to very accurately re-drill for the diaphragm clutch cover and to balance it. 

Me mum's old bathroom scales are not very accurate, but indicate together they weigh in at about 26.5 lb (12kg).  However with a smaller clutch the rim of this flywheel might be well chamfered, to loose weight off the peripheral.  

Pete.

[Colin Lindsay]

21 hours ago, Bfg said:

Colin,  I just asked a local company ;  J.D.Robertson & Co, Colchester ..who have a good reputation and are very helpful / friendly to talk to  - for a price of a rebore on a 4-cyl Herald engine.  And that is  £112 + VAT  ..and you supply the pistons.   And for my 4-cylinder TR engine they quoted £16 + VAT for each crank journal, whether for big end, mains, or oil seal.  

How much is it to send your stripped out engine block to them & get it back ?

Pete.

Worth looking into! Am currently out of commission due to having my own trunnions repaired - you should see how long it's taken me to type this. Will check in New Year as I'll be limited in what I can do until then.

[Bfg]

56 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Worth looking into! Am currently out of commission due to having my own trunnions repaired - you should see how long it's taken me to type this. Will check in New Year as I'll be limited in what I can do until then.

oowh sounds uncomfortable.  I bid you a speedy recovery and good nights sleep in the meantime.

Pete.

[Bfg]

 

yesterday afternoon was less productive.

I see a stamp on the top of this which says 25D.  Is that correct for the 4A ?   The number stamped on the side is 40822A

Distributor is not really salvageable, and even the cap has two chips out of it.

 

From my newly acquired Moss catalogue . . .

^  cunning little catalogue can be misleading huh ! It would be easy to read TR4A in the bottom line as being the latest.. but alas that was for the rarely optioned 83mm pistons ..to take the engine capacity below 2 ltrs - which would qualify it for different race class and/or in some countries for different insurance and tax class.

I'll have to watch out for that

So,  I have no idea what the distributor I was sold with this engine was from ..with its Lucas number 40822A !?

Pete.

[thescrapman]

Austin A60 originally 

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/pdf/lucas_distributor_specs.pdf

 

[Bfg]

 

Good Afternoon Europe ..and all other former colonies

..and today's first special request is from Mr. Peter W.  of Pinner ..down there in an overcast Middlesex, who writes in for us to play a piece by that classic composer ; Distributor Shimming  . . .  It seems that Peter has been practicing this little ditty himself on his bass size hole punch

We are of course very glad to oblige. .  So, from the sheet music by Haynes, we will begin with the chorus .  . .

 

darn.. determine this, calculate that  - it's really not very clear is it. 

In the Standard-Triumph workshop manual, their examples confused me more., and the description makes no mention of (nor allowance for ) the gasket between the pedestal and block. This is in the parts book, but is described as a 'washer, joint, between pedestal and block'  ..so I assume it should be there (..I know never assume !)   But surely, unless this gasket is allowed for, its thickness would add to the end-float being set, and then the total end float would be quite massive and non-sensible.  This manual instead talks of  "requires packing"  ..but doesn't explain further. 

And there-in lies the confusion - the language.  To a simple-minded engineering type, like me ; a "gasket" is is a compressible membrane used to help seal between joint surfaces. And "packing" is either carrying a weapon, or rather more frequently with my lifestyle ; something a parcel has internally to prevent the contents from moving about &/or is wrapped around the outside to protect the item from getting bashed.  Whereas a "shim" is a flat, non-compressible spacer with a thickness made to a tight tolerance. 

To lil 'ol me they are very different things.  Moss catalogue describe it as a gasket/shim ..which is like saying to a pilot "over and out"  

And as someone who bought a scrapper engine and then ancillary 'bits' to go on it ..three of which (..so far) have proven to be the incorrect part,  and otherwise expecting there to be a gasket between any ancillary and the block  ..I was kinda lost

I ventured on nevertheless

..for this engine ;

^ Haynes paragraph 4.  A washer with a 1/2" (13mm) inside hole, to fit over the oil pump / distributor drive shaft.  I measured this one's thickness to be 0.0415 ( 41-1/2 thou " ). Its outside diameter isn't important but the washer does need to be clean and flat ( I deburred this one on emery paper).  

^ 5. Note the machine face on the engine block has been thoroughly cleaned. Likewise the machine face on the underside of the distributor pedestal which clamps to it.

^ 6 & 7.  Fit the distributor pedestal in place (without a gasket) and with those two nuts lightly pinched up - the temporary washer holds the pedestal away from the gasket face of the cylinder block. This is the gap to be measured. On this engine that gap measured  0.033".  

8. compare the thickness of the temporary washer with the measured gap. The difference represents the end float,  so ;  0.0415 --  0.033" = 0.0085" end float

It should be between 0.003 - 0.007"

"measure the thickness of a new gasket"    but, but, but  I don't have one !  ..I'm here trying to determine what thickness I'll need to buy.

 

Hey ho,  I'll do things my way ..and disregard all of the above !

^  With the pedestal bolted in place, with no ; gasket / shim / spacer / fag packet / toilet paper / nor anything else - I simply measured down the hole - the end-float of the distributor / oil pump shaft. ie., the amount of movement of that shaft between the brass bush it sits in and the underside face of the pedestal.  

Although the digital vernier may not be nearly as easy to use as a depth gauge in this sort of situation - it's what I have ..and with care is accurate enough. I used a spring between the vernier's jaws ..to keep its bottom end prod pushed against the top face of the shaft's gear, zeroed the digital read-out, and held the instrument steadily in place while pushing* upwards on the bottom end of that same shaft ..to see / measure how much free-play there was. The extent of up and down movement, pushing against the spring on the vernier, is the end float. (full stop !). 

This measured 0.005 - 0.006", so within the 0.003 - 007" permissible tolerance.  It's good. No shim is require.  And no gasket will be fitted, I'll just use a decent jointing compound.

* the oil pump is not fitted at the moment.

Now why couldn't Haynes or the Standard-Triumph manual just say  " measure the end-float movement with a depth gauge, and if tighter than 0.003"  add a shim under the pedestal to increase it.  And if the end-float is greater than 0.007"  then shim between the engine block and the underside of the flange on the shaft's brass bush ..to decrease it."   It's just one sentence ...and there's no piddling around with finding or making a 1/2" ID washer, feeler gauges in the gap, nor any calculations.

Btw ; inserting shims to between the block and the brass bush is best practice, because if they were placed on top - very thin shims could possibly buckle in the rotating shaft, , whereas underneath there is no rotation - It is more work but much safer.  

Hope that's of interest,  whatever your car ..or taste in music.!

Pete

[JohnD]

I keep a  washer in the 'rarely used tools' drawer, that I've carefully filed flat and which I've measured with a micrometer.

It's better and easier than scrabbling something out of the ofcuts bin.

John

[Bfg]

 

Finishing up from last week, and just because I want to shelve them for the time being - so need to know they work and are the right part before doing that ; I cleaned up the fuel pump and starter motor.

Apart from AC cast into the top I see no part number.   Moss catalogue state the same part for all the 4-cylinder model TR's so I'm hoping it is the right item.

^ it scrubbed up pretty well but there's still a fair amount of petrol staining, particularly in the top corners which is reluctant to come off.  It would probably shift easy enough if I got the de-carb out, but I'm not too worried about that as I don't want a pristine car.

The important thing is that it appears to work well, although by now I guess the rubberised parts inside might be due for replacement. 

So that, and the starter motor - which works when a battery is connected, and I've subsequently cleaned of the gritty grease in & around the bendix, can be boxed and put away.  I also removed the surface rust off the casing and squirted some zinc.    

^ The Lucas M418G part number checks out as being correct starter for the TR3A - 4A. 

I guess that's it for a few days now, as I've just had a couple of molars extracted, and it's very soon to be Christmas Eve.  So for tonight I'll bid you all

Wonderful Seasons Greetings

..and I'll catch up with you soon.

Pete.

 

[poppyman]

Best wishes and a happy christmas to you as well Pete.

Tony.

[Bfg]

.

Seasonal Greetings All. 

I survived the dentist 'experience'  and now it's time to prepare for the machining and subsequent rebuild.  I haven't removed the timing chest yet nor have I touched main bearing or camshaft, but I'd like to get at least some of the following parts ordered asap, to avoid holdups as n' when I need them, not least because they will be needed by the machine shop.  This is where I'm at so far ..and still trying to work through catalogues

Already Bought :

• TR3 flywheel                                                       (approx 20 lb in weight before machining)
• Borg & Beck Diaphragm Clutch                  (drilling of TR3 flywheel necessary to fit)

Ordering :

• Flywheel Ring Gear - bolt-on 4A                 (machining & drilling of TR3 flywheel necessary to fit)
• Flywheel Bolts  x4                                             I freed the engine by turning the originals with a long lever.  I'll not use those in the rebuild. 

• Gasket set - Head                                             Any advice ?  Moss catalogue is misleading in its inset showing head & cover gaskets. Is the upgraded cyl head gasket required? 
• Gasket set - Block                                             Any advice ?
• Seal - Rr lip oil seal kit       (scroll removal necessary)      A decision had to be made ;  scroll,  scroll + lip seal,  or lip seal on a freshly reground journal.  Pros & cons with each. 
• Seal - Fr.Crank
• Core Plug Set                                                    I only see two core plugs in the 4A block and one rear of the cylinder head 

• Piston + Liner set (87mm)
• Big Ends +010 (Glacier / Glyco)                 Is it worth paying the extra for OE spec big end shells, or should I use Tri-metal ?
• Big Ends Bolts - x8 Stretch TR4A type    The motorcycle engines I rebuild use split pins. I'm not used to stretch bolts and I guess they're OK, but for their price why risk it ?
• Mains +10 Trimetal                                         Can I use Tri-metal or is it worth paying the extra for Glacier / Glyco main bearings ?
• Crank Thrust - Set of 4 - Std                        Until i remove them and compare dimensions I don't know what thickness I need, but I guess these wear rather than the crank.? 

• Timing Chain                                                     Not pulled yet but I expect it to be well worn.
• Camchain - Tensioner                                    Not pulled yet but for £5 it's got to be worth replacing ?
• Cam followers - Tuftrided                            Not pulled yet, don't know if I'll need them if I keep the original camshaft ?
• Cam Wheel Lock Tab

• Oil Pump - spindle & rotor                            I'll go for a spindle and rotor from a reputable supplier as recommended by Mickey, and we'll see how the tolerances are then.
• Oil pressure relief valve - spring                 I tend to change these as a matter of course, but at almost £5 it's surprisingly expensive for what it is. 

• Washer - Head washers                               I know those outside the rocker cover are chewed up. I need to recheck the others. 

• starter motor brush set                                Not yet pulled but I assume they'll be needed
• starter motor bearing / bush set             - ditto -

• Front engine mounts - standard              I can't see the need for the rectangular type ..what Moss 'failsafe' design.
• Front engine mounts - side                         I'm unfamiliar with this (p.16 item 64 in the Moss catalogue) nor with the torque reaction buffer - anyone help with a photo ?
• Lifting Bracket - engine - rear                     the scruffy used one on ebay is the same price, so I might as well buy new ?

 

I expect to be buying most of these from either the  TR shop  or  Revington TR. 

But I'd be glad for any advice, note of where there's an omission, or any other recommendation you might like to suggest.

Thanks,

Pete.  

[Bfg]

.

Afternoon all,

Getting parts in didn't quite go to plan..  I was keen to get some of the machining started, which I cannot do without having the parts for the engineering shop to dimensionally match to.  So I'd hoped to get an order in to the TR Shop just before Christmas, for some of the bigger items like the piston and liners, for courier delivery inbetween Christmas and New year.   Unfortunately they were closed when I called on the Monday.  I sent them an email with what I wanted but nobody replied for a card payment.

Hey ho., I proceeded with trying to pull together a parts list of smaller items I'd also need. My friend Rich called one day, and in conversation advised me that said shop was open between Christmas and now, so I called them again to discuss a few bit and get prices. I got answers to my questions but they asked me to send them an email list for the prices. I did that but haven't yet got a reply.   Then another friend, Chris suddenly decided to visit me for a couple of days, giving 24 hours notice, so although it was great to see him - I lost four days of getting this engine stripped and into the machine shop. Now we wait until after the holidays, as the order for parts has still not been taken.  All in all that's a little frustrating.

While not being able to do much, I did do a quick drain down test. . 

^ Aside from turning the engine over, when I freed it from being seized, I haven't touched these valves. But just out of interest I wanted to see how well (or not) the valves were seating after years of standing / rusting.  Here I've simply filled the inlet and exhaust ports with parts cleaner.  Gravity does the rest.The above was after 45 minutes and #1 cylinder exhaust port is already an inch or two emptier than the others.

 

^ two hours later the fluid level in #1 cylinder exhaust port has dropped / drained a few inches. The others have seeped a little but not a lot, which is pleasantly surprising considering the pile of rust found inside #4 cylinder.  

Each of the exhaust valve seats will be replaced as they are converted for unleaded petrol ..and so will be re-cut and lapped in.  But unless the valve guides also need replacing, this little test tells me - the inlet valves just need a little hand re-bedding in. That's nice.

- - -

While my buddy Chris was here we inverted the engine on the motorcycle lift so I might remove the big end cap and thrust washers..   So here you go.  Father Christmas when not on duty, with beard trimmed again and out of his long red coat  . . . 

  ^ I know.. I'm not a photogenic person .. and then look even dumber in real life ! 

TR engine block inverted on the motorcycle lift / work bench (with its conveniently adjustable height, and narrow width - so I might work from either side). The wire is just there for safety / to prevent the engine from toppling when undoing things like the main bearing bolts.

Why not have it on the engine stand ?  Well, when I removed the cyl.head  I lost use of two of the mounting bolts (where the manifold studs go) for the engine stand to be mounted from the side.  And I couldn't mount the stand from the bell housing flange and still access to the bolts to the crankshaft scroll seal.  So this work bench works better all round. 

 

Back to the tasks in hand..

^ Removal of the middle main bearing cap is needed to get the thrust washers out. The lower (underside) halves of these thrust bearings have tabs on them (arrowed) which locate in the slot machined into either side of the middle main bearing cap.. They are there to prevent the thrust bearings / shims from turning with the crank.

The other (upper) half of these bearings / shims have no tab - so, with just the one cap off - they can be pushed / rotated around the main bear journal and easily removed / replaced ..with the crankshaft still in place.

Thrust bearings limit the amount end-float of the crankshaft, which generally isn't going anywhere ..until the clutch is disengaged. The clutch release bearing is pushing against the clutch spring(s) ..either conventional or diaphragm,  and that force is transferred via the pivots to the clutch cover ..which is bolted to the flywheel ..which in turn is bolted to the end of the crankshaft.   The clutch release mechanism is within the gearbox bell-housing, and so it is the force applied through this that pushes the whole floating / rotating assembly, including the crankshaft, forwards.  And that wears the rear thrust bearing ..because the oil (normally in this bearing) is squeezed out by the crankshaft pushing forward against the main bearing's seat & cap.

The significance of crankshaft end float ?  Well, an important factor here is in the alignment of the timing chain sprockets, especially as the two are relatively closely spaced and using a duplex chain. Logically,  because the crankshaft moves forward, and the rear thrust bearing wears soonest - the crankshaft sprocket might be statically aligned (perhaps 0.002 - 0.004") rearwards than the sprocket on the camshaft. 

 

So, the thrust bearings / shims are consumables which wear.  Replacements are available in different thicknesses, to accurately set the crankshaft end-float. The books say the end float needs to be 0.004 - 0.006"  (Haynes manual). The Standard-Triumph workshop manual gives a little more information insomuch as this end float ; 0.004 - 0.006" (desirable), but the wear limit,  ie. end float, is within tolerance with anything upto ; 0.015"   ..and that manufacturing tolerance may be anything between 0.0048" - 0.0117".    The sods..  so four to six thou-of-an-inch is correct but Triumphs might have been made with almost twelve thou end float ..and that was fine.!  

Way back when < here >  I measured this engine's crankshaft end float to be 0.011",  so it is within tolerance.   

However as the engine is already stripped down and it's now easy to do - I'd like it correct.  So my next question was ; what thickness replacement thrust bearings do I need to buy ?    I couldn't find the answer in Haynes nor the Triumph workshop manual, but thankfully Moss catalogue helps us out.  p.19 item 85  tells us that the thickness of these bearings / shims  (standard) are 0.0925" thick.   With this information I could measure and determine the difference / wear of mine as ; 0.001" of the forward thrust bearings, and 0.0025" wear of the rear ones.  So if i were to replace these with new standard thickness bearings the end float would be 0.011 - 0.001 - 0.0025 = 0.0075"  ..that's still too much (but probably as this engine was originally assembled).

And if I were to replace these with the next thickness  which is 0.005" additional thickness (for the pair) then I'd have ;  0.011 - 0.001 - 0.0025 = 0.0075" - 0.005" = 0.0025"  ..which is too tight. 

So what I'll need to do is to re-use the lesser worn of the old ones, and just one new thrust bearing (which is 0.0025" thicker than standard)  ie. 0.011 - 0.001 -(0.0025 - 0.0025) = 0.005" end float.   That'll work.

Next job is to inspect the main bearings..

Pete.

 

[Bfg]

.

Yesterday afternoon I pulled the bottom end apart,  but had already had a quick look at the middle main bearing journal. .

^ just a quick rub over with a piece of soft scouring pad cleaned off the caked-on oil residue from around the middle of this bearing. The ridge / wear of the journal is just about discernible by feel but we're probably talking of 0.001" or less. I'm happy to reuse that with new bearings but not reground.

Now to check the others, so quickly running through the task ..in comic strip fashion . .

^ fastenings removed for the rear oil-scroll caps.  Where there's a number of the same size fastenings I break their lock with a 3/8" socket, and then zip around removing them with a cordless drill. 

^ with the main bearing cap bolts removed (..again I like to check the torque of these as I undo them) its cap may be tapped upwards (via a hardwood block) and the oil-scroll plate is lifted out. This then makes room for a wooden lever to get in to lift the main bearing cap vertically out.

 

Main bearing cap as lifted, with the bearing shell still on the journal.

^ shell removed and a quick wipe reveals this journal looks and feels similarly barely worn. 

^ this was the worst of the three, but imo there's not enough wear here to need a regrind. Subsequently I tried to measure what the wear was, between the centre 'ridge' where the oil way is compared to where the bearing actually runs, but my vernier gauge (or my own skills in using it) is not accurate enough to even measure half a thousands-of-an-inch wear. And yet I feel it ?

Moving on . .

^ the engine mount's plate is bolted to a gasket block ..which provides a bridge / a level surface for the sump pan to seal against.

And the front main bearing bolts are tucked away under that gasket block.

^ when undoing the timing cover fastenings, don't forget the one in the middle.

^ I expected a puddle of filthy black oil to dribble out, but there was not a drip.

^ the wooden block stops the crankshaft from turning as I undo the cam chain sprocket bolts.

^ Cam chain sprocket lifts off easily and I note there's a punch mark (finger is pointing to it) on the sprocket which corresponds to that on the end of the camshaft.

^ Camshaft bearing carrier has two bolts and then pulls out.  The other bolt alongside this is for the engine mounting's plate.

^ with the last bolts removed - the engine mount plate pulls off, but for the fact that the gasket glues it to the engine block ..so it's peeled away.  

^ looking a little naked now.  Seen just under the water pump is the screw thread of a stud, and a positioning dowel. A second dowel can be seen next to the crankshaft sprocket.

^ the sump gasket infill block has the cork in either end face but is easily tapped out with a wooden block. Its underside is scalloped to clear the main bearing bolts.

 

^ With its two bolts removed - the forward main bearing cap may also be tapped free.

^ That's it.. the crankshaft is free to lift out.  I used the winch to lift it out, not so much because of its weight as it awkwardness in reaching to both ends - so as to lift it out squarely.  Don't ask how I know that reaching and at the same time lifting is not good for my back.!

 

^ having already removed the front bearing carrier the camshaft itself just pulls out of the hole through the front face of the engine block. 

After a good clean up I will inspect and measure the camshaft to see if it actually needs replacing. First impressions is that it does not.   I would however be glad to hear feedback regarding what the difference in engine characteristics between the standard versus a high-torque camshaft (..when nothing else is changed ).   If this camshaft is still good, is it worth my spending another £100 - 200 in replacing it or having it re-profiled ?

That's it for today.

I wish you a happy New Year's Eve.

Pete.   

[Bfg]

.

just 1 hr 35 minutes in the garage this afternoon

^ I made a bit of a hole  ..and quite a bit of mess all over the floor  !

^ oh ?

^ ah !

^  ah ha !

^ that was last winter-months project  ..a micro coal-burning stove with oven, for my boat. 

^ cooler weather is due ..and then motivation to go out to the garage wilts. 

But I were a boy scout.

[Bfg]

^ after breakfast, I lit the fire (first time after nine months) to warm the garage  ..and then went back into the house to drink my morning coffee and write this.

Last winter I designed & made this tiny stove, shaped to fit into my old boat.  I then trialed it in the lounge of my home ..with the flue pipe poking out of the window. I'm not sure that was quite  in compliance with building reg's ..saying the flue should be above the pitched roof height. But it's efficiency is far in excess of the multi-fuel stove in the room. 

It now being in the garage is a temporary arrangement only and not in living accommodation, but still I'll be careful. 

^ twenty minutes later, and there's not much to see but a glimpse of the glowing coals in the tiny fire box. However the fan on top is buzzing away very quickly ..I use that as a visual indicator (like a rev counter) of how hot the stove is.

^ that's up to full temperature (575 degrees) and stable, so I then completely shut its starter valve.

 

[Colin Lindsay]

4 hours ago, Bfg said:

. However the fan on top is buzzing away very quickly ..I use that as a visual indicator (like a rev counter) of how hot the stove is.

A Vaillant 2-blade - my present from Santa! It spins quite easily in our house - the stove is red hot when 'er indoors is in, and the cat pants for breath - but I've no idea if it improves heat dispersion or not.