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Posted

Just bought Bond Equipe mk1 fitted with 2 litre engine. Does this require a fuel additive to run on unleaded fuel? The engine was rebuilt to stage two spec but the previous owner did not know whether the head was modified to run on unleaded. I have heard that this engine could run on unleaded fuel without an additive but until I know for sure I will use an additive. Hope all you Triumph people can put me on the right path. First Triumph I have owned apart from a Mayflower.

Posted

Many simply run on unleaded and get the head rebuilt if needed. Rely on lead memory. I run two cars. A 1500 and a 1300. Neither modded. The 1500 has done 40 k since i rebuilt it in 92 with no probs. the 1500 is recent so no idea.

Posted

As Mishmosh says, most people just run on unleaded and fix the problem when (if) it occurs.

 

If the car has run tens of thousands of miles on leaded fuel and is then switched to unleaded, then the lead memory should prevent a problem for many 10's of thousands of miles.

 

If however the head has been recently fettled and the valve seats recut or simply ground back in, without fitting hardened seats, then the lead memory has been lost, so valve seat recession may become a problem quite quickly.

 

If you decide to just take a chance, then monitor the valve clearances regularly, and if they start to close up significantly then you need to look at getting the head converted.  If the clearances remain OK, then no action needed.

Posted

Hi.

 

I run a '78 Spitfire 1500 with less than 40k miles on the clock (backed by old MOT's). In the last 10-12 years its done less than 4k miles. So far I've been using the additive in the fuel, as did the previous owner. As far as I'm aware, the head as never been off. Would it be safe to discontinue using the additive?

 

Andy

Posted

This is a common topic on the old Forum. If I recall correctly, the consensus is that you can run OK with unleaded fuel on an unmodified head because of the memory effect (the valves and valve seats retain the old lead). However, it is worthwhile using premium unleaded, such as Shell V-Power, because our cars were designed to run on higher octane fuel than normal 95 unleaded.

I have run fine on V-Power for some years, but just keep an eye on the valve rocker clearances. If they start to close up it may indicate valve seat recession.

Hope this helps.

JohnM

Posted

I did inadvertently fill the car with 95 after I first bought it and it pinked, ran rough and ran on after turning the ignition off. It really didn't like it. Next fill was Vpower and it was like driving a different car! So much smoother to drive.

 

Andy

Posted

Hi Frogeyman,

 

If your cylinder head was reconditioned as part of the engine work (stage 2 can mean practically anything - but that's another subject) then I'd find it hard to believe that who ever carried out the work didn't fit hardened valve seats while they were at it. 

 

That said, I'd agree with the posts above; just stick unleaded in and see if your tappet clearances close up over time. I'm willing to bet they won’t. 

 

On the subject of pinking and brands of fuel, even when in standard form your car was designed to run on higher grade petrol than that which is available today, meaning that you should either retard the ignition to run on the modern stuff, or use the higher octane variants.

 

In my experience Shell V-Power is best and allows me to run my car at the original timing setting of 11 degrees BTDC, the 97 RON stuff makes little or no difference to running with standard modern fuel (pinking, running on) and Tesco 99 RON is ok if I can't find a Shell station.

 

Every engine is different though, especially as most have had some sort of machining work carried out by now, and it’d be worth experimenting with different types of fuel. You may well find your car runs fine on the cheap stuff! :)  

Posted

  • From the Canley Classics Website

     

    The simplest way to convert your car to run on unleaded fuel is to put it in the tank.

     

    Lead in petrol performs no function until it is burnt, when it then acts as a protector for the exhaust valves and seats. Good quality exhaust valves and seat inserts make sure that the valves cannot receed into the head, but with most old engines the valve seats are so hard anyway that putting unleaded fuel in will make very little difference.

     

    If a valve should wear (or receed) then replace the valves and have the seats inserted or have a reconditioned engine unit.

     

    Apart from the exhaust valves and seats, no other parts need to be changed from standard - even the timing stays the same.

     

    Some very high compression engines may require 98 octane but we run a variety of 4 cylinder engines on the 95 octane with no problems.

     

     

  • 5 months later...
Posted

The problem with that post above (from Canleys) is that it’s now ages old, probably written when leaded petrol had just been discontinued or not far off it. Many of our cars have now been run for years with no lead, and the lead memory is long gone. I’d advocate using an additive if you’re in any doubt and don’t want the expense of having to replace or fix the head.

Posted

Started using additive when I got my car back on the road. Had some problems getting the mixture right so took a plug out to see if it was biscuit, brown or black stained. None of those! PINK! So can't use that test again until I've got rid of the additive flavoured fuel.

Posted

Frogeyeman

 

If you don't want to follow the varying advice above, the safest thing to do is add an additive!  If you use V Power (which I highly reccomend) you may have trouble getting it in some areas, so why not just use 95 octane fuel and Castrol Valvemaster Plus.  This will protect your valve seats, whether, or not they need protecting and you will be able to get 95 octane fuel anywhere.  The Valvemaster Plus will also increase the fuel octane.  I have used this very successfully for years and it does what it says on the bottle.  This is also available at discount (for bulk buys) through Club Shop.

 

Safe and increased octane, if you don't mind the faff!  It worked wonders in our Triumph 2000 rally car.

 

Regards

Mike

Posted

When I was an apprentice I had a Saturday job in a record/music shop. Some of the early Floyd used to come in, from time to time, and I remember one of them buying a single guitar string and asking for a VAT receipt. :lol:

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