Engine noise spitfire 1500

[Nick Jones]

Errr….. I mostly do 6 pots….. no. 5 is the favourite there, though they can also get problems with the front two due to being furthest from the pump.  Dunno why 5 really.

On the 4 pot it’s not surprising that the the middle two cylinders are most prone to problems as both are fed from the centre main and that tends to wear fastest due to taking the most thump.  Why 3 fails more than two, I really don’t know…. Though when I blew up the 1500 in Herald many years ago it was indeed #3 that kicked its way out (with very little warning) and dumped the fuel pump on the chassis rail.

Looking at the movement in that “bearing” I’d say the shells are completely gone. Possibly the crank will clean up, but the rod will definitely be scrap. I can probably find you a stray rod (or even a set) if needed but whatever you end up using, get the machine shop to check the rods are straight and the BE bearing holes are round.

Nick

 

[rozentas]

Here’s my crank removed. I live near Aylesbury, any advice as to where to take it for a regrinding gratefully received. Apart from that do I need to tear down the rest of the engine or just clean everything then reassemble?

[Steve P]

Bit of a blurry photo but no 3 BE looks toast to me,not sure what the biggest oversize is -30?.

The engine shop will have to measure it and asses the damage.

Not familiar with your area so can`t recommend a machine shop.

Steve

[johny]

As Nick says the pistons and conrods will have to come out after being marked up and then sent off for checking so head has definitely got to come off. Is there much debris to be seen in the sump and oil?

[rozentas]

No debris in the sump or oil. Thanks for the feedback, will strip it all down

[Steve P]

Did the one that was flapping about have any bearings left?,what did they look like?.

S

[Clive]

31 minutes ago, rozentas said:

Here’s my crank removed. I live near Aylesbury, any advice as to where to take it for a regrinding gratefully received. Apart from that do I need to tear down the rest of the engine or just clean everything then reassemble?

Bracknell? http://cmesuk.com/ are VERY good.

You may well need that conrod replacing or machining back to round.

As you need to remove pistons, you really should get the bores honed and new rings. On the plus side the engine should be great for 10's of thousands of miles after.

[Steve P]

CMES,i used them for a 2.5 rebuild,i won`t say why on here but i cannot recommend them.

S

[Pete Lewis]

just searched yell.com  there are some looking fair to chat to 

Engine Reconditioning near Aylesbury | Reviews - Yell

Club engines are all done by Ivor seales   but thats not local 

Contact | Ivor Searle  an amazing place 

 

and if it helps   canley classics have exchange cranks in stock

Crankshaft : Canley Classics

Pete

[johny]

40 minutes ago, rozentas said:

No debris in the sump or oil. Thanks for the feedback, will strip it all down

Wonder where it all went😬 Good to have a look on the back of the main and BE bearing shells to confirm theyre standard size and its not already been reground...

[Nick Jones]

Were there any shells left in no 3 and had they spun in the Con-rod?

If there were still shells in there and not spun, which seems improbable given the movement in your original video, you could just stick some new shells in there and pry. I’d advise against though it as the rod is quite likely battered out of round. If shells gone or spun the rod should be considered scrap.

I struggle to see how you can have that much movement and no debris in the sump…..

Nick