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Engine noise spitfire 1500


rozentas

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If you would be willing to come I would of course  provide all the bacon sandwiches you could eat.  I live in Aston Clinton HP225EX.

Theres a garage about 0.5 of a mile away and he said he would be able to diagnose the problem so I have booked it in for Tuesday. Let’s see if he can do that and I will report back.

Steve

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well good luck . we have all had a good head scratch with this one

a visit is not out the window , so long as you are a member . doug and I got caught with that  scenario

drove all the way to uxbridge got his vitesse running wasn't a member and never heard of again .  

so I volunteer with caution now Ha!   Pete

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28 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

a visit is not out the window , so long as you are a member . doug and I got caught with that  scenario

drove all the way to uxbridge got his vitesse running wasn't a member and never heard of again .  

so I volunteer with caution now Ha!   Pete

Been caught that way more than once... "I'm joining the club but this is an urgent problem" or: "Would you have a wheel / starter / dynamo for a Herald? Can I pay you for it at my first club meeting? / next week's show?"

Never seen again, nor at any show I attended... but still it's another Triumph on the road I suppose.

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On 20/07/2019 at 12:35, KevinR said:

my money is now on a failed big end, as this doesn’t cause a significant drop in oil pressure 

My money has been on this since page 1.........

I also have concerns about it escaping and creating a new inspection hole in the block as this is what 1500s do in my experience......  It will certainly be adding to the damage to rod and crank journal.  I certainly would not be driving it.

It is just possible that the crank has broken, though this tends to happen to small crank 1300s rather than 1500s.  I did break the crank of my 1300 Herald (through the web between no1 big end and the front main) and it continued to run just fine apart from making a god-awful racket.  Was driven about 5 miles like this (very gently) and off a recovery truck.

Nick

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If it’s a failed big end then it’s engine out and a full strip down. Crank regrind and new big ends and mains.  Bound to be lots of other work that should be done at the same time so you have a reconditioned engine ready for the next decade or two.  It’s usually pointless just  doing the minimum, as if you do, something else will need doing in a few years Tim and you will have all the expense of the strip down all over again

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4 hours ago, rozentas said:

Sorry I meant does the engine have to come out......

The bearings can be replaced in situ but unfortunately by the time a big end makes a knocking sound there has been metal to metal contact and the crank bearing surface will have been damaged. Then only by taking out the crank (engine out of car) to regrind it to a smaller size and using new oversize bearings can you get back to the close tolerances required for a correctly running engine....

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24 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

Is this it? Aren't those Spitfire wheels!!?

trump.PNG.53b105ecd4940cc98e755676b5eb1581.PNG

db

Am I missing something here. Does the legend on the fin mean that after 3 years of the current administration the owners of the car are looking for someone to make America great again? I think they are looking in the wrong place

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Nah that's a modified early Spitfire. You can tell by the shape of the rear wing and the stack of chrome 1500 bumpers, one on top of the other, at the rear end. (although that's a TR7 spoiler at the front and an Acclaim door)

It also appears to have sagged in the middle, hence the wheel half-way along to keep it off the ground.

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14 hours ago, rozentas said:

Sorry I meant does the engine have to come out......

Most likely, yes.

It is possible to drop the sump with the engine in situ.  Messy and moderately unpleasant but not especially difficult.  This allows access to the offending parts. The big end caps can be removed for inspection and I strongly suspect that the problem will become obvious.  If caught early enough, renewing the bearing shells can be a successful repair, but the noise in your videos suggests to me you are already past this point and will likely need the crank re-grinding and a probably replacement rod.

Indeed, just draining the oil may give some interesting clues in terms of the debris carried out with it.  If you get any significant metallic lumps out with it, I'd suggest sparing yourself the pain of sump removal and just removing the engine.

Should you find you need rods, I can provide at set for the cost of postage only.  

Nick

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So I started the engine to drive the half mile to the garage.  As soon as I put her the car under load the knocking got worse and I could feel it in the gear stick.  Thought better of it and told the garage I would not be able to get there. No problem he said but now I have to decide what to do.

I have read the  Haynes manual and am confident I can get the engine out.

Ivor Seattle can sell me an exchange for £1600. 

The question is can I do it myself for less?

What would you do?

steve

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Im sure you can do it for a lot less by just repairing whats damaged. If we assume the most likely problem, big end bearing failure, is the only one then a crankshaft regrind plus new bearings and sundries will cost say 250 pounds. This will need time and patience as well as mechanical know how but I think this latter requirement can be learnt as you go along by following the workshop manual (Haynes is a bit limited).

Theres no better or satisfying way to learn although if you havent done any other engine jobs its a bit of a big first step and would be best tackled with a bit of assistance....

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unfortunately it doesnt look like a free one is available online for your car so its either ebay or somewhere like Rimmerbros to buy one. However have you read through your Haynes manual? Does the explanation of crankshaft removal seem clear? 

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Also, what's the overall condition and value of the car? What are your long term plans for it? Unless you're driving around in a minter, or are planning on restoring the car to that level, I would probably suggest that splashing out £1600 on a rebuilt engine might be overkill.

1500 engines aren't exactly rare as hen's teeth so I'm sure with a bit of asking around you'll find a fellow enthusiast willing to sell you a running unit for significantly less (i.e. maybe a couple of hundred quid, or even less if someone's got one taking up room in their garage).

If it was me I'd take the engine out (it's going to have to come out anyway), strip it down to see what the problem is (I'd be too curious not to know at this stage) and then if it's not something I wanted to tackle in terms of a rebuild I'd ask around and see what was available secondhand that I could drop straight in and forget about it.

Conversely, if you're really keen on originality and keeping the original engine (if it hasn't already been replaced at some point in the car's history) then you'd have no option other than a rebuild. Given the fact that you're considering an exchange unit I presume this isn't very high on your list of priorities.

Don't worry too much about it - engine removal on a Spit is a really simple job :)

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