Jump to content

Captain
 Share

Recommended Posts

Can anyone help?

I'm in the process of a nut and bolt restoration of my Mk3 GT6 which has rotoflex drive shafts fitted.

I like the idea of the Canley Classic CV kit, but wondered if anyone has any experience of fitting and running them, which they can share with me before I commit to buy.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know a number of people who have fitted the kit, and have not had any complaints.

 

You still retain the problem of shimming the rear bearings (it uses a 1500FWD CV joint).

 

The alternative is the Nick Jones / Josh Bowler setup,

 

That uses R100 driveshafts and the vertical link is machined to suit.

 

But sourcing the parts can be a problem now.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some people have commented that the drive can be a little harsh when using a CV conversion - irrespective of who designed or manufactured it.

 

With the rotoflex, the donut puts a little bit of shock absorbtion into the drive shafts, and with the CV joint systems that is (obviously) missing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have just started driving my car (6 year build) fitted with teh Nick Jones conversion Very happy with it.

Also know a few people who have used teh canley version, all happy. Except for the shimming part (which is the same for normal rotoflex) and a noteworthy point, some rotoflex uprights need a little relieving to clear teh conversion, not much, but probably down to variations in the upright castings.

 

With the cost of proper rotoflexs being so high, a conversion is really a no-brainer for a car that gets used...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think any of the CV conversions are a worthwhile modification. There are pro's and cons to all of them. I run Jigsaws set up which I believe uses Audi CV joints. As with the Canley conversion it retains the original bearings so requires shimming (not really much of an issue once you have done it once or twice)Nick Jones' modified upright is definitely the more elegant engineering solution. Canley use a 1500FWD CV joint at one end an a propshaft joint at the other(happy to be corrected). Neither the Volvo CV that Nicks conversion uses or the 1500 cv that Canley use are overly common these days but once sourced should last a long time. My intention is at some time to machine a couple of spare uprights to take a sealed roller bearing as per Nicks conversion and fit that along with my current CV setup.

 

The jigsaw CV conversion fitted without any mods to the car and appears well engineered. I have certainly not noticed any harshness through the transmission and of course most cars have something similar these days (CV connected driveshaft's). I suspect that its more that if you are used to the unusual slightly spongy sensation of the original rotoflex the CV transmission may feel different.

 

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First post on the TSSC forum.......

 

Nothing to add to the above really.  Any of the 3 mentioned routes will give a decent result (though must confess I know very little about the details of the Jigsaw conversion) and will be a worthwhile improvement on the rotoflex shaft.  Also rather easier to assemble to the car.

 

As for the "harshness" comment, I was rather pleased to get rid of the roto "boing" effect and find the car easier to drive smoothly with CVs.

 

My Vitesse has now had CVs in place for 11 years and approximately 40k miles.  I've had no issues.  I did convert my conversion (!) at the 20k mark to change to the Rover 100 based solution (devised by Josh Bowler) from my original Ford-based prototype, but the same Volvo inner CVs have been there since the outset and they weren't new then.  Fit and forget was my aim - working so far!

 

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the comments and advice on this topic.

 

I'm convinced that a CV conversion is the way to go. I'm after a solution that I can more or less fit and forget, which will also improve the running of the car. I guess I've now got to decide which kit to go for.

 

I haven't got a lot of experience making anything up from a variety of other car parts so does anyone have any drawing, descriptions, lists or pictures ect, which I could follow.

 

Nick, I'd be interested to hear how you built your CV kits if possible.

 

Do you all think it is better to just pay for a kit which has already been assembled Ie Canleys, Jigsaw?

 

Thanks again for the help!

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I converted my MK 1 Vitesse non roto to the Jones/Bowler version ater snapping a shaft near the hub end.I didn`t have the facilities to build up a kit so asked Nick to give me it complete ready to bolt on.

 

All i had to do was weld on the chassis brackets for the lower wishbones and relocate the tie bars further in the outrigger

.

I feel much more confident in the rear end durability now(even with a 2.5 engine and 3.27 diff).

Nicks very helpful.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info Steve,

Totally agree with you about Nick.  I've researched this topic quite a lot now and Nick crops up all over the place on different forums giving help and advice.  He has also given me lots of detailed info, which I am very grateful for.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...