Just picked up the Spit.

[Tanky]

Hi all again.

Well I picked up my 1500 Spitfire from Birmingham on Sunday and drove it back home to Cardiff so it had a good old run. Some things I just wanted to have you guys check out for me?

1) The windscreen wipers not working. (went through two showers on way home, it got a bit scary at times!) I figure that the WW's should be connected to the left hand stalk on the column, however that column is connected to the lights, even though there is a lights switch on the dash....

2) The horn doesn't work...

3) The clutch really judders and shakes the whole car when I accelerate from stopped, and in 2nd etc.

4) it's like an oven in the footwell....

5) I might be being stupid here but it has a brand new soft-top. If the roof is up and the seal around the door is on the outside of the window, I can't open the doors! If it's on the inside of the windows, I have huge gaps between the window and roof especially at the door handle end. What's that all about?

6) It came with a roll bar. Should I fit it?

Door/window seals need replacing as some bits are missing...Where, Club shop?

I have to say apart from these things, ( the previous owner lied about all these things working and it being without problems, and lied about the paintwork) she drove without a hiccup all the way back, so overall I am a very happy Spitfire owner! 

I can't wait to go to my first club meet... Cardiff/ Newport? Please advise as I would like someone with knowledge of Spitfires to give it the once over and let me know what else is wrong with it!

Many thanks in anticipation.

Charlie

[dougbgt6]

I think the WW are on the right on a 1500, a combined stalk. There should be instructive decals on it?

The horn, a cheap multi meter is great investment. The horn works by connecting to ground, there should be an earth strap on the steering rack which sometimes comes adrift. Can you hear the horn relay click? Just had to replace mine, it clicks but no juice coming out. 

Clutch judder, difficult to say without further diagnosis. 

The oven in the footwell, heat from the engine bay is leaking through holes in the bulk head and the gear box tunnel seal. Stop the holes and seal the tunnel.

I've heard that about soft tops and doors before! It's a design feature. 

Door/window seals, don't think the club shop sell them. Canley Classics, Rimmers and Moss are the usual suspects.

Doug

[mishmosh]

As above. Clutch. It’s not too big a job to pop the gearbox out. Sounds like the first job is check gearbox and engine mounts. The wiper switch is rubbish. Bypass it before condemning the wiper motor. Seals are tricky to get good ones these days but as mentioned plus paddocks  fitchetts.   A hard top is a good investment. Changed the car entirely.  The gear box tunnel benefits from sound and heat proofing. And it must be as airtight as possible. Roll bar. Your choice. Never a bad thing unless it’s a poor design. . 

[Badwolf]

I'm with Doug and Mishmosh. Just to add clean up the bullet connectors near the wiper motor and the earth. Usually full of crud. Simple check, may just be them.

[Pete Lewis]

wiper and horn ...has the sounds of the dreaded fuse box. to check the blades in the fuse box conduct circuits by using the fuse cap  any corrosion or weak springy fuse terminal clips is a constant feature on here ,

door seals  should be a flip lip not a tubular balloon seal thats good at making for door slamming 

good site for cheap seals https://coh-baines.co.uk/  its picking the right one 

most suppliers sell the wrong section 

clutch judder could be its down to rivets or oiled up.  italian tune up  might work or kill completely 

in 4th gear at 40 mph slip the clutch and apply full power  to realy heat it up  20 seconds max .dont get it to smoke thats too violent ,  

a couple of attempts will clear off the friction surface .. if its due to being worn out expect a walk home .  so do this with some care 

engine and gearbox  and diff   mounts are also critical items in chasing judder

Pete

[daverclasper]

5 hours ago, mishmosh said:

Seals are tricky to get good ones these days

Hi Tanky. Usually at least a few issues to work through when you buy a "classic". Good luck.

Regarding seals. If buying new, would this be more like, impossible?.

Dave

[Tanky]

Good morning everyone and thanks. The clutch seems to be clearing itself as I drive it. i drove it to work this morning. The car had hardly been used and it had been stood for a long time. I'll keep an eye on oy and let you know. I think I have the wrong stalks on my car. They don't look like a 70's bit of kit, but I'll have a look around for some photos to see if they are right or not.

I'll lift the carpets again and have a look to see if there are any holes. Should there be heat shields or something under the carpet?

I think I might just do away with the stalk/wiper issue and like Mishmosh said, I'll fit a period switch in the dash...

I'll have a tinker this Sunday and I'm sure I will have more questions, until then, thanks you guys...

Charlie

[Pete Lewis]

Easy seal for the tunnel , dont bother with the pretty awfull ones sold, they dont suit a 40 yr wonky tunnel and body

 Buy  a slab of cushion foam from places like dunelm get 25mm thick  cut in long strips about 25mm square 

Can of carpet spray adhesive and  this will be cheap  and seal the variations  in body tunnel poor fits 

There should be some packaged wadding under the tunnel ,  more  for sound than heat this is normally old and dregraded or missing

Pleanty of self adhesive heat reflective and noise  deadening stuff around to line the underside , and the  outside  

Thick felt under the carpet  for noise  can help 

And  under the floor mats (unless the cars getting water logged.)  Then its drain holes not padding !!

The hood is designed to  fit inside the window glass or you cant open the door, some hoods have a better gutter stitched on than others 

Convertibles of the day were never designed to be water tight , not like a modern expectation.

Pete

 

 

 

 

[Paul H]

For the gearbox cover or areas that need sound deadening eg bulkhead,  check out Silentcoat https://www.google.com/search?q=silentcoat&rlz=1CDGOYI_enGB820GB820&oq=silentcoat&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l3.11815j0j4&hl=en-GB&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8. 

Paul 

[Clive]

A picture of the steering column/stalks would help. Or....is the ignition key on the black binnacle by the steering wheel,or do you have to rummage by your knees? 1500 spits had 2 types of switch arrangements, early is pre 77ish, but some (like me) have fitted the late style to earlier cars....To prevent the rummaging issue amongst other reasons.

[dougbgt6]

I used Silentcoat, it works very well sound and heat much reduced, but be warned it is VERY heavy.

Doug

[Badwolf]

If you do decide to use Silentcoat, I found that one of those 2 inch plastic wallpaper border rollers is great for pushing the Silentcoat into valleys like those in the floor tub. It stretches well and sticks like ****!! It also doesn't disintegrate like felt when it gets wet and is a lot thinner if you are putting it under your seats. Thick felt may cause the seats to foul in the carpets if you are moving the seats backwards and forwards. It is expensive and heavy but I have found it to be excellent all round.

[Paul H]

Use a heat gun or hairdryer to heat up the silent coat . Much easier to work with getting the contours of the bodywork 

Paul