Mathew Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 I have fitted new rear springs to both of my spitfires, they no longer sag but both stand too upright tucking in slightly. I can't see them when driving! Will they settle down with use? I did tighten up when everything on the ground under pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 Springs can settle a few bags of sand in the boot can help but if made correctly should not sag , have you reset the toe on the rear wheels?? excess toe in will make the rears climb as you travel fwds. what spitfire is this ??? so we can look up camber specs,?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 Profile says he has a mk4 and a 1500, odd that they both have the same problem. Has he done the same thing wrong on both installations? What could it be number 10? Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 When I fitted a new spring (from a reputable supplier) to my Spitfire, even with settling it was nowhere near the right camber or ride height. Sadly (lack of alternative quality parts) the only solution was to add a lowering block to the rear for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 aha so both are swingers !!! doesnt help number 10 though . there is the drive shaft lengths on the 1500 that affect camber being 1/2" longer its got to be down to spring manufacture and geometry lowering blocks .......... wonderfull things thought...... is the spring base leaf fitted under the swinger box and the plate through above the bottom leaf ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 We had someone with a misassembled spring a couple of months ago? Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted August 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 43 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: aha so both are swingers !!! doesnt help number 10 though . there is the drive shaft lengths on the 1500 that affect camber being 1/2" longer its got to be down to spring manufacture and geometry lowering blocks .......... wonderfull things thought...... is the spring base leaf fitted under the swinger box and the plate through above the bottom leaf ?? Pete Hi, they were hd springs from rimmers. And assembled as they had come off. Thought about lowering blocks, it may come to it. Theres always a good use of a sandbag though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 depends what they mean by HD but were they fitted right in the first place we have had some disasters on the forum for swinger box oddities Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 3 hours ago, dougbgt6 said: We had someone with a misassembled spring a couple of months ago? Doug I think that that may have been me. https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/2623-totally-destructural-adhesive-on-test-nose-to-tail-1972-spitfire-mkiv-restoration-upgrades/?page=28 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted August 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 57 minutes ago, Badwolf said: I think that that may have been me. https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/2623-totally-destructural-adhesive-on-test-nose-to-tail-1972-spitfire-mkiv-restoration-upgrades/?page=28 Interesting, been a few months since I fitted them. Will take a look tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 24, 2019 Report Share Posted August 24, 2019 If you read my posts on the subject, my spring was fitted by a professional garage who had both the wsm and haynes to refer to a they totally scr*wed it up. Good job it wasn't the cause of an accident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted August 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 Is this correct? Found a pic of it before I changed the shocks and wheel studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 25, 2019 Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 Mathew - Yes that looks to be ok from what I can see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted August 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 Looks like lowering blocks then. Will take a photo of how they both sit when I get home. Both have only done a few miles since fitting (10). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted August 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 A pic of both my rear ends ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 25, 2019 Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 Have you measured the toe in / parallel ofnthe rear wheels Two straight timbers and tape measure will give a good idea. The spec is loaded so 150 on each seat to set to Measure the visible length of your drive shafts let us know hope some previous has not fitted short shafts???? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted August 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2019 I will get my son to drive forward in them with my other son in the passenger seat, to see if they sit right then. The blue one was heavy sag on drivers side before changing and I know the lengths are correct on the red one. The red one does require properly setting up though as just done on the lengths of wood method. Can anyone recommend a place near downham market who could do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 26, 2019 Report Share Posted August 26, 2019 Its controlled by adding removing shims from the chassis bracket for the tie rod They should be slotted so just slacken the bracket bolts available from most suppliers, add to reduce toe in remove to increase toe Aim for parallel to a max 2mm toe in at the tyre , excess toe will cause the wheels to atempt to converge and increase the camber driving it forwards Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlubikey Posted August 26, 2019 Report Share Posted August 26, 2019 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: Aim for parallel to a max 2mm toe in at the tyre Toe out at the rear, isn't it Pete??? Cheers, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted August 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2019 34 minutes ago, rlubikey said: Toe out at the rear, isn't it Pete??? Cheers, Richard Arr, have plenty of shims but which way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 26, 2019 Report Share Posted August 26, 2019 I think it depends on laden or unladen however I know more toe out increases oversteer which our cars do not need.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted September 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 All day to install a lifting block! One stud did not want to come out. Had to cut the grove and make a tool to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathew Posted September 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 The result 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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