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GT6 Stromberg - but which one?


Sandgroper
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Just trying to improve the starting on my 1972 GT6 Mk3 Rotoflex. Had a look at the workshop manual but this doesn't show the same carb ! The brass tag on the front carb has the numbers '2245' and '3432R' impressed on it.

 

The carbs work fine once the engine is going but starting is poor. I feel that the problem is in the choke activation area. 

 

The choke cable operates on the front carb only. This is connected to the rear carb by a fuel line - seeming to indicated that the choke supplies extra juice to the rear carb. for starting. The rear carb looks to be exactly the same type of carb, but there are no interconnecting options.

 

My hunch is that it isn't giving a rich enough mixture.

 

Has anyone any ideas? Is this arrangement common? How do you set it up?

 

 

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the tag with 3432  is correct  these are CDSE150    

 

the front one has the starting valve, this has a bridge  n the valve connected to a outlet which is tubed to the rear unit its normal

 

 make sure the cable pulls the choke fully open, 

 

its also worth taking the stating valve off the carb and make sure all the metering hole in the discs inside are clear an not full of corrosion

 

if the discs are scored you can re face them with a oiled wet and dry fine paper, on a glass or flat sheet and sand away the scoring

 

dont drill the metering holes , use some soft wire or similar to clear the small holes.

 

both carbs should open up some throttle when the choke is used the cam bolt is adjustable 

 

make sure no gaskets or filters are obstructing the front face ports an use engine oil in the dampers

 

as thes are cdse they will have the temperature compensator on the side 

 

take it off there are 2    0 rings one at the outer case and one at the base of the small boss 

these fail and air leaks in

 

also check the small plastic plunger is closed, this is loaded by a small bimetal strip the plunger has special settings but ignore all that and make sure the little sod is actually closed up to normal running temperature  the idea is on over heating the plunger opens and allows air to bleed and bypass the throttle plates, ups the idle and weaken the idle mixture

 

if this is open when it needs to be closed you never set the idle mixture correctly

 

it is much more important that the  plunger is closed  when setting the mixture ,     if it never opens so what.

to close it tighten the small nut inside 

 

Pete

 

Pete

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I have the same carbs with the same choke arrangement. Quite easy to duff up with a refurb kit and, Pete's advice!. Surprised Pete didn't put you onto Buckeye Triumphs site but he's getting on a bit and things slip his mind! :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

 

Although Strombergs for a TR6 Buckeye will tell you EVERYTHING you want to know about including the pesky temperature compensators.

 

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm

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Dough you should copy this link to the brakes section  

 

we took water content samples from trucks in storeage , this was done every 3 month, the results were pretty alarming , the amount of water that absorbed

in the fluid by atmospheric changes allows the moist air to enter via the breather in the cap , the more air gap the worst volume changes due to temperature 

could end up with up to 50% water in the reservoir in less than a year 

 

that why its recomended to change stuff like dot4 every 2 years 

 

Pete

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 Sorry Dough , told you a    tablet thingy and fat fingers typo's all sorts of expletives quite easily

 

Ill stick to my laptop,  

 

                     3000 letters a minute ,,,,,if you want  it in  words ................................................its a lot slower 

                        how about a section of selfies in the kack  

                           Peeet

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