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Thread Drift to main topic 😋

Use a Herald / Vitesse windscreen wiper to clean the shower . Great for curved panels . Modern wiper blades wont open enough to take on the curve 

Paul 

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22 minutes ago, Paul H said:

Thread Drift to main topic 😋

Use a Herald / Vitesse windscreen wiper to clean the shower . Great for curved panels . Modern wiper blades wont open enough to take on the curve 

Paul 

Must be the forum equivalent of that strange new thingy on cars that senses drift and pulls you back again. Is there an override? 

Wiper blades to clean the shower indeed. Where do you mount the motor?

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3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Must be the forum equivalent of that strange new thingy on cars that senses drift and pulls you back again. Is there an override? 

Wiper blades to clean the shower indeed. Where do you mount the motor?

You take the car in with you and clean the car at the same time :) 

Tony,

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8 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

It's 'being hit on the head' lessons in here.

...by a slice of lemon, wrapped around a large gold brick......and yes, it has been a very strange day here in my parallel universe.

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We've just got a new Mazda 3 because it has ALL the Bell's n Whistles on it, but the noise/vibration when you  cross the roadside white line and the lane departure wheel tug directing you back annoy's the hell out of me!! You'll never be lonely it's always talking to you, Oh it doesn't like left foot braking, it's a No No to touch the brake and accelerator together, Beep Beep Beep, what the hell have I done now! 

One things great tho the fuel consumption 6.8l/100klm, vs our old Jags 12 to 14, running around town.

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had the left foot braking  cock up when i worked after retiring  (2003) at my local citroen garage as a quality gremlin    just bedding in some new pads which were a bit soggy 

and the ECU program  went into dying mode  and only just got it home , had to re boot the whole ecu progam    .....makes you popular 

that was nearly 20 years ago so   dont apply brakes after fording  it wont like it 

bloody daft idea bit like electric handbrakes  apply when you wish it didnt and doesnt apply when you think it should    

wheres  the May sunshine 

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Left foot braking confuses modern cars especially when you try use the accelerator as well. I am on my third turbo dieseled vehicle  and when you try spool the turbo up and apply a bit of brake the ECU’s disagree with each other and leave you floundering. 
This can be disadvantageous when attempting to exit an intersection briskly.

Adrian

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Daughter in laws VW Polo definitely doesn’t like brake and acc applied together at traffic lights it just bogs down and takes a few secs to clear the confusion at get up and go!

How can you do wheelies that’s why I keep a Dolly Sprint! Brake on build revs up to 4500 and then drop the clutch, Whoopie! ESP on 5 year old tyres.

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Have an electric handbrake in my manual car, hill starts are interesting as the handbrake is on or off, the steeper the hill the more interesting.

Fortunately I live in Norfolk to quote "very flat Norfolk" but then he had probably never been on a  bike in Norfolk.

Regards

Paul

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Our last 3 Renaults have had that. One time though it got confused and all the bells and lights went off and it kept blinking "STOP THE CAR! DAMAGE WILL ENSUE!" and it would no longer engage... the manual said contact a dealer... I was over 300 km away from home and had no clue whom to contact.

Then I noticed that the lever you pull up to engage the brake also goes down. So after trying a combination having the car running or not running, in gear/out of gear, foot on brake pedal or not etc. I discovered simply holding the button down cause the brake to "reset" and then it acts normally again.

This is not documented ANYWAY and google didn't even know about it...

Granted, part of my job is to test things are work because if someone can get something that can only happen one a thousand times it's me!

We also had a problem with the seats that move automatically back in forth to make entry easier not moving far enough forward so shifting meant pushing with your tippy toes.

I had taken the car in at least 3 times because of this but our local garage was not allowed to service the car anymore (long story) and it was a Sunday (Germany grinds to a complete halt on Sunday, I hated it when I moved here but now I I kinda like it)....

So I crawl under and take a look and after eliminating the usual suspects I noticed 3 electric motors. Only one was perpendicular to the seat rails so I did the only thing I could do: Pulled its plug, waited 10 seconds and plugged it back in.

Voilà seats work fine!

Since I don't have to pay for repairs I can#t be upset that my company got shafted for it but that might explain why we're not allowed to use their services anymore...

 

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I had a Citroen XM  bit of a space craft in its day these had a foot operated "park brake"

which doing a hill stop/ start involved needed extra feet to stop apply foot brake then with left foot lock on the park brake it was  fly off so restarts  was ok till you needed a re stop 

did get like playing the organ 

with too many pedals and not enough feet 

Pete

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the mazda has an electric handbrake & I hate it every time you stop the engine you can hear the cable being tensioned up & streeetched the wife's X Type that we had 16 years had a conventional manual handbrake & I reckon I used it maybe a dozen times a year if parking on a slope, otherwise in the garage or angle parking P was quite adequate.  

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  • 1 month later...

I know the Club Shop sells a Coil Over Spring Compressor SC001 cost 60quid, & it weighs 3Kg which could cost 80quid to send to Aus, plus our GST/Import tax so all up say 160quid or $300A, 

So I decided to make my own (DIY), 2 pieces of 175mm by 100mm by 13mm thick bar/plate steel cost $11.5, it took me 2 hrs with the drill press to drill the 7 holes, except the two big 38mm and 45 mm holes, one in each end plate, the 10mm metric threaded bar I had, but the 6 nuts cost $2. Ref the two big holes like Colin L I have access to an extensive machine shop (neighbour's gear manufacturer) cost for drilling the two big holes Nix, but I'll take a bottle of good SA red over & we'll drink it!

So all up it cost me $13.5 and 2.5hrs of my time, no its not powder coated, but I will etch paint it & as it's kept in my garage and a tool chest it won't be susceptible to rust!

As you can see I've used it to replace the perished bush's at the top & it's great and more importantly safe to use unlike the hook versions!!

One job I have to do is modify the bottom plate to accept the GAZ adjustment knob, another reason why I made my own. The nuts are = to 5/8 UNF & I don't have a ratchet spanner that size, 9/16 and 3/4 Yes, so I think I'll treat myself to one. 

Coil Over Spring Compressor - Top Plate.JPG

Coil Over Spring Compressor - Long View.JPG

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57 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

one has the nuts welded on the stud ends so a socket and impact driver run the studding in /out 

as the lower holes ar threaded 

Pete

Same as mine, bought from the Club Shop many years ago. It needs to be kept well greased otherwise it will wear the threads smooth very easily.

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At the bottom I used a heavy duty spring washer and nut on the threaded bar, for safety I think I’ll drill a hole thro the protruding bar and put a D pin (split pin) thro it so it can’t unintentionally unscrew.

After use I want to be able to strip it down to it’s seperate components for easy storage.

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Made mine as well but use the bottom eye fixing.
I just figured that is the way the shock works so the spring compressor can do the same thing.
Built it with some scrap channel and purchased threaded rod.
Welding the nuts to the top of the rod means I can use a ratchet or rattle gun and not worry about the thread protruding through the nuts, like one of Pete Lewis. 

Used it to fiot the GAZ shocks and will probably gather dust till I get onto the Mk2 CV🙄

comp.jpg

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Ahebron, the bottom eye fixing a good idea as all shocks irrespective of any shock adjustment screws can fit, no cut outs needed, might see if I can find a 50mm length of 100mm across flanges channel and bolt that onto the bottom plate, but then I'd have to buy longer threaded bar, if the channel presents itself I'll do it, bars cheap @ $5. 

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