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Home-made Tools and those you've adapted or modified. And also "tips and tricks".


Bfg
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Pipecleaners are a very versatile tool in my garage.

Often used instead of a small paint brush when painting holes drilled in bodywork. After it has been used just cut the used end off and you have a perfectly good shorter pipecleaner for future use. Same with getting grease and oil into small places. And you can clean pipes with them

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  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone come up with neat home made sheet metal working tools ?

I've seen cheapo manual folding devices on auction websites - are they any good for chassis-weight steel (like for making up new chassis U sections) ?  

and aside from a disc on an angle grinder is there an easier way to cut long lengths of sheet metal ..that's too thick for hand shears.? 

Cheers, Pete

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24 minutes ago, Bfg said:

Has anyone come up with neat home made sheet metal working tools ?

I've seen cheapo manual folding devices on auction websites - are they any good for chassis-weight steel (like for making up new chassis U sections) ?  

and aside from a disc on an angle grinder is there an easier way to cut long lengths of sheet metal ..that's too thick for hand shears.? 

Cheers, Pete

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Saxton-5pcs-Double-Head-Cutter-Sheet-Metal-Nibbler-Cutter-Power-Drill-Attachment/372465652038?hash=item56b8aed146:g:OMsAAOSwsXNeqVnx  These things do the job Pete, so long as you take it steady and don't rush it. Good for going round corners as well.

Tony.

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I bought an Evolution circular saw which will cut up to 6mm plate.
https://shop.evolutionpowertools.com/collections/metal-working-range
I was sceptical but at the price for a brand new saw I couldnt pass it by.
And it does everything I wanted it to do, I have cut 4mm thick box with it and 2mm sheet with ease.
Obviously being what it is cutting bends is not its forte.

For curves the plasma cutter set correctly is the bollocks but best not free hand.

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Only 1 small "home made" element to this lot... it's my kit of tools for getting the head studs out on a Dolomite 1850 engine...

DSC_1187.thumb.JPG.5e1f6f9481931fedc399442e0eb8c5c9.JPG

The important bit is the 7/16" UNC nuts, one of them has the head ground down from 11/16" AF to 5/8" AF. That allows the 11/16" deep socket to go over it when "double nutting" apply torque to JUST the lower nut. This is important because on the 1850 Dolomite there isn't enough room around the head studs to get spanners in to double nut in the usual way.

nuts.jpg

The ground down nut is a bit sacrificial, they only tend to last 3 or 4 studs, but they get the job done!

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10 minutes ago, ahebron said:

Hi YS

Is that because you have to remove the head studs to remove the head?

 

Yes, not enough clearance around the inner wing to get the head off with the studs in place. (Even with the exhaust manifold removed)

Pictures:

DSC_1911.thumb.JPG.ab91fce89b9f5d3c5c5d1d2ea731af11.JPGDSC_1912.thumb.JPG.faab3a89cc88c52547b46601b3b6e10d.JPG

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DSCF8552.jpg.a7533b7d05cdc7137c5ee59ae19d2f06.jpg

One for freeing up seized brake adjusters - might even work to adjust the brakes in situ.

The adjuster is 1/4 inch so any 1/4 inch-drive socket fits on; I've used 1/2 inch, with a 1/2 inch bolt in the socket and two nuts to lock it up. Put the adjuster in a vice, plenty of penetrating oil, and work it gently back and forth. If it's really stuck, use a bigger socket and therefore a bigger bolt, nuts and spanner. Easier to grip and work with than the square brake-adjusting spanner which usually cuts into your fingers, or distorts.

 

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6 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

One for freeing up seized brake adjusters - might even work to adjust the brakes in situ.

The adjuster is 1/4 inch so any 1/4 inch-drive socket fits on; I've used 1/2 inch, with a 1/2 inch bolt in the socket and two nuts to lock it up. Put the adjuster in a vice, plenty of penetrating oil, and work it gently back and forth. If it's really stuck, use a bigger socket and therefore a bigger bolt, nuts and spanner. Easier to grip and work with than the square brake-adjusting spanner which usually cuts into your fingers, or distorts.

That's brill Colin. I have a 1/4" square "ring" spanner for the adjusters, but it never gives me confidence on the fit like your arrangement would! I'm nicking that idea!

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21 minutes ago, yorkshire_spam said:

That's brill Colin. I have a 1/4" square "ring" spanner for the adjusters, but it never gives me confidence on the fit like your arrangement would! I'm nicking that idea!

I have a cheap brake adjuster spanner and it cuts the fingers off me every time I use it! One of the last adjusters I worked on was so seized the entire vice was moving round. As we say over here: that idea with the socket soon put manners in it.

24809BBA-3F98-475A-9827-956C1A16D55A_1_105_c.jpg.976fab149f8624e5f764810b1a7ac00f.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I have a cheap brake adjuster spanner and it cuts the fingers off me every time I use it! One of the last adjusters I worked on was so seized the entire vice was moving round. As we say over here: that idea with the socket soon put manners in it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Adjuster-1-4-x-11-32-Sq-FITS-Classic-MG-1100-1300-Magnette-MGB-GT-etc/143591310901?hash=item216eb58635:g:6r0AAOSwrgFep-q6 I use a Girling one similar to this colin and never had a problem. I have another that i have ground down at one end to fit the old style mini front drum brakes.

Tony.

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2 minutes ago, poppyman said:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Adjuster-1-4-x-11-32-Sq-FITS-Classic-MG-1100-1300-Magnette-MGB-GT-etc/143591310901?hash=item216eb58635:g:6r0AAOSwrgFep-q6 I use a Girling one similar to this colin and never had a problem. I have another that i have ground down at one end to fit the old style mini front drum brakes.

Tony.

I was watching one of those last month, but didn't bid. I'll get one eventually, they look kinder to the fingers than the meat-slicer version I use, which distorted considerably when introduced to a hammer and a seized adjuster.

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1 hour ago, JohnD said:

That's better!   Thnak you, Sam and Colin!   

But poppyman, you're letting the side down!    "HOME MADE TOOLS" is the subject of this thread!!   Nothing that you can buy, on ebay or anywhere!

John

I was simply trying to help someone, as they asked a question not me.....but your not really into that nojh are you.?? And according to above Pete and Colin it has helped...... And it is listed as "tips and tricks" So i have given a couple of tips to help people..... Nothing wrong in that as far as i can see.........

Tony

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6 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I have a cheap brake adjuster spanner and it cuts the fingers off me every time I use it! One of the last adjusters I worked on was so seized the entire vice was moving round. As we say over here: that idea with the socket soon put manners in it.

24809BBA-3F98-475A-9827-956C1A16D55A_1_105_c.jpg.976fab149f8624e5f764810b1a7ac00f.jpg

I did it the opposite way round, gripped the adjusting screw in the vice and put a BIG open-ended spanner on the Brake fitting!. That worked. The 1/4sq Brake spanners have been around for a long time. I think I may have a couple somewhere. I once welded a Nut over the top of the square, the combination of heat and the better grip soon shifted it. Saved stripping down the brake system!.

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11 hours ago, poppyman said:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Adjuster-1-4-x-11-32-Sq-FITS-Classic-MG-1100-1300-Magnette-MGB-GT-etc/143591310901?hash=item216eb58635:g:6r0AAOSwrgFep-q6 I use a Girling one similar to this colin and never had a problem. I have another that i have ground down at one end to fit the old style mini front drum brakes.

Tony.

^ I was misusing one of those on Friday . .

P1340602s.jpg.b10fee6562a997f57e9555014399f734.jpg.

^ when I'm cleaning the thread of nuts - I use my brake adjuster as a convenient handle for the thread's tap - then I have the other end free to turn the nut.  In this instance I was re-using very old but specifically shaped BSF nuts on a vintage motorcycle ..and then need to accurately but low torque them down for even tightness on aluminium cases - so their threads had to be clean and run free.  

11 hours ago, JohnD said:

 

But poppyman, you're letting the side down!    "HOME MADE TOOLS" is the subject of this thread!!   Nothing that you can buy, on ebay or anywhere!

John 

Perhaps the misuse of bought (or otherwise acquired) tools satisfies the criteria ?

Pete.

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These are mostly homemade so should be ok for inclusion, can't make my own pins.😉

tools.JPGB

 

But this is partialy home made so its sitting on the fence😉

Hydraulic.JPGs

Some of you might have seen these on another forum that decided to delete photos.

 

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8 hours ago, Bfg said:

^ I was misusing one of those on Friday . .

P1340602s.jpg.b10fee6562a997f57e9555014399f734.jpg.

^ when I'm cleaning the thread of nuts - I use my brake adjuster as a convenient handle for the thread's tap - then I have the other end free to turn the nut.  In this instance I was re-using very old but specifically shaped BSF nuts on a vintage motorcycle ..and then need to accurately but low torque them down for even tightness on aluminium cases - so their threads had to be clean and run free.  

Perhaps the misuse of bought (or otherwise acquired) tools satisfies the criteria ?

Pete.

Absolutely!

John

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3 hours ago, ahebron said:

These are mostly homemade so should be ok for inclusion, can't make my own pins.😉

tools.JPGB

OK! Puzzle pictures too!     The right hand one might be for removing the bezel on dash switches, but it's a bit big, I think, and has holes for a tommy bar, hardly needed for a switch bezel.        But the one on the left???

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