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Herald Radiator in a Mk4 Spitfire.


blubayou
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Anyone done this without issues?

I've just dropped one in to see, fits perfectly (after removing the two tube clips on the side) until you close the bonnet, I'd estimate it's about 1/4" too high.

I don't actually know if it's leak free yet so loathed to do any real mods if I'm wasting my time.

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That filler neck is the problem; most replacements have the filler recessed to one side, as in this eBay sale I found as an example:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-HERALD-RADIATOR-FULL-WIDTH-22-WIDE-NEW-TOP-QUALITY-UK-SWITCH/352218226673?hash=item5201d79ff1:g:iHEAAOSwcuZdEhZo

Lowering the entire radiator should be simple unless something fouls at the bottom?

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Now the bottom hose is too short, to the point I am unable to get a seal. I could extend the hose with an insert? A new flexible 30mm hose would cost a bit & almost certainly chafe on the engine mounting. Best bet is to cut the bottom radiator outlet & extend 1" or so with a bit of 28mm copper.

But for now I've refitted the original.

It's old and tatty, but does not leak. Or have clearance issues. Or overheat for that matter.......

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Some things just get bigger than Ben Hur, for a while I ran a Herald Rad in my daughters Spit Mk2 can't remember how I did it. It was obviously mounted by the bottom frame holes and top rad holes, it was close but worked. Eventually we switched to a cheap Aluminum rad & have never looked back, works even in Melbourne's very hot summers. I can get locally supplied Al Rad for a Spit from around $150, only 2 core. or if I went to a Al Rad specialist/manufacturer pay up to $600 to have a 3 core made, The cheap 2 core has been in there 15years,but  why can't they make nice radius bends in alloy rads? they all seem to all be mitered straights looks Orrible!.

Alternatively you could modify the top rad tank blanking off the rad cap hole and use a Spit 4 remote header tank with it's built in Rad cap, which could/would require an extra hole & pipe outlet in the header tank, or tap the thermostat cover where the boss is and fit it there or use the later remote saloon or Dolly type expansion tank with rad cap similarly connected into the thermostat cover.

Me mum used to say "Peter never say it can't be done, can't ain't a word!" 

Peter T

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could the rad be moved backwards slightly as I believe that will a bit more clearance at both top and bottom plus get more cooling from the fan. Of course you have to take into account any possible engine movement.....

Otherwise as Peter says a cheap aluminium version (from 80 pounds delivered?) seems to have the cap a lot lower.

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Thanks all, some good ideas there.

I like the idea of the header tank approach, it always seems weird to me that I can change the thermostat without losing any coolant.

Incidentally this idea came about due to boredom, there was nothing wrong with the existing factory set up, I just seemed to remember someone saying a herald rad was a straight swap but with superior cooling abilities, plus it had height to give a proper head of coolant..

Having now compared the two, I find the Mk1V rad has a matrix area of 144sq/in and three rows of fins (39mm thick), the herald has 199sq/in two rows (30mm thick).

Pretty comparable in cooling area I would have thought, plus with the Spitfire rad it is better placed, directly in the path of the fan airflow.

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