Guest Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Hello, The pax door closes with great ease, BUT the driver door needs to be lifted slightly in order for it to close properly. I have no doubt that this a common tale of woe with separate chassis / body vehicles. Looking at the hinges, I can see that the lower hinge pin has a bit more wear / movement than the top pin - add these 2x together and I think this is probably the issue. I'm happy with the placement of the anti burst plus door lock etc. The door needs to be lifted about 1/2" to 3/4" for it to close properly - once it is shut there are no problems with it opening unexpectedly etc. I will be grateful to know what the options are and who has done what to rectify this. Additionally, am I on the right track with my diagnosis ?? Thank you in advance. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Hi, it does sound like your door has dropped but you should be able to compensate for this a certain amount by adjusting the door hinges. The fixing bolts allow movement so that you can angle the door higher but it is a bit fiddly as the door needs to be supported while loosening the hinges. One way is to get the door sitting correctly in the door way closed then undoing the hinge bolts enough to allow the hinges to be moved to take up the play in the pins. Of course it sounds like you have a lot of play and replacing the pins/hinges would be a better long term option..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 yes bulk head hinge bolts control the up down bolts hinge to door control the in , out but pin play needs addressing i have in the past drilled and fitted over size pins to reclaim a worn hinge if the base hinge has worn pin bores think i used a long shanked bolt Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Thanks folks, I will measure the door drop more accurately tomorrow, that will give an indication as to the next step. I get the feeling a set of pins may be the way forward. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 New pins alone are going to reduce the play and then by adjusting the hinges as Pete says you can get the doors sitting as true and flush as possible so that there is good seal contact all the way round. This may even require moving the quarterlight assembly but should result in better rain proofing and less wind noise👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark B Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 1/2" to 3/4" is a lot of play, so probably wear in the hinge as well as the pin. I would find a couple of better hinges, the hinges are the same on all small chassis Triumphs, some slight difference in shape on the early herald. Find a couple from a Spit, ideally passenger side, lighter doors so hinges have an easier life. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Thanks Johny & Mark. I take it the hinges are not handed then ?? Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 one thing to remember the tapped plate for the hinge bolts are a bit on the thin side and can with any gorilla effort strip out very easily spec new is 16/18lbft a good nip rather than a wraunch up is advised if they strip you can re tap 8mm or drill 8.3mm and tap out to 3/8unf to reclaim Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Hinges not handed. Replacing pins is easier said than done, having failed in the past (and in the process destroyed hinges) But with a good soak in vinegar or similar to remove as much of the rust as possible, followed by a bath if penetrating oil, then heat and patience, something I was probably lacking, it should be possible. I can have a look when I am home, see what I have got... I used to keep good hinges when I stumbled across them. Sometimes the bolt holes need opening up a little to get enough adjustment, and as Pete points out, keep the inner gorilla at bay! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Flinn Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 New complete Door Hinges are still available, part Number 607824 - TD Fitchett's at Telford show them in stock at £21 Each, Canley Classics slightly cheaper but none in stock? I replaced the bottom ones on my car both sides and used the best secondhand ones I had at the top when I rebuilt my car. If you still find you cannot get enough adjustment when you have replaced the hinges or pins, you can pack the rear front bulkhead body mounting to tilt slightly the front bulkhead. This is something I had to do to stop my Quarter lights catching the top of the 'A' Posts (Windscreen Surround) on my convertible🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Pete / Clive / Gary, Many thanks for the info - most useful and much appreciated. Contacted TD F, they have them on order form Germany at the moment and still waiting for them after 6-8 weeks to arrive - currently none in stock. Chap I spoke with has advised to check weekly. One bonus is that the new hinges are a complete unit including the pin, as such it is merely (he says !!) a case of unbolt & re-bolt; could be the best straight forward option. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: one thing to remember the tapped plate for the hinge bolts are a bit on the thin side and can with any gorilla effort strip out very easily spec new is 16/18lbft a good nip rather than a wraunch up is advised if they strip you can re tap 8mm or drill 8.3mm and tap out to 3/8unf to reclaim Pete Hi Pete I’ve found 2 bulk head door bolts that have stripped on my Vitesse . I’ve never used a tap n die set before though looking to go down this route . Is it best for me to go down the metric route ? I see plenty of tap n die sets on Fleabay at low prices . Is there a brand I should be looking at . Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Paul - Just bought this off fleabay... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-Pro-40pc-SAE-TAP-AND-DIE-SET-AF-Imperial-4-40-TO-1-8-27-B2626/382918246193?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&redirect=mobile Used it to tap out a broken bolt and clean out threads gunged up with por15 (set like concrete, couldn't get bolts to start off) and sh*t. Worked very well and has a reasonable range of imperial & metric sizes. Probably no use for prolonged heavy duty/pro use but should suffice nicely for the odd repair 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Hello Badwolf I think at that price they will carbon steel ok for cleaning out threads and Aluminium/Mild steel with care but will soon lose there edge and jam/break in Stainless Steel or good steel Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Thats the olde compromise or utopia quiz Should be fine for most infrequent diy jobs. pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 I'm currently looking at stud pullers - I broke my Frost version taking studs out of a Herald block at the weekend - and have the same problem; I can get cheap versions which may not last, but Frost appear to have stopped selling the set of four which I have (the cylinder with the internal cams) and which I broke the third largest, and want to replace it. Has anyone tried the impact stud puller? Plenty for sale but about £50 for two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Ive had onenof these for years worked last on dougs stuck studs with a 3 ft breaker bar Good with impact or monkey wrench https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/tool-connection-tc3986-impact-stud-extractor/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 21 hours ago, classiclife said: The door needs to be lifted about 1/2" to 3/4" for it to close properly - once it is shut there are no problems with it opening unexpectedly etc My initial measurement is not correct in fact I'm not sure how I came about that - too much measuring of other things hence the confusion. The door lifts by 1/4" or 5/16" max - which is a much better picture than I painted earlier. As such, a pair of new hinges should sort the issue - once I have them and they are fitted I will report back. With regards to taps and dies - if the original was Imperial then ideally you should stick with that. However and as Pete has highlighted, there are occasions when Metric will be the only option as it often sits between 2x consecutive Imperial sizes. At the end of the day you need to make the task work and of course conclude with a satisfactory result. As to which tap / die "material" you require it really is down to what you are cutting - the best is carbide, then HSS and lastly carbon steel. Roger is spot-on with his advice, if you are looking to either cut new or a harder material then you really should be looking at HSS at the very least. Ironically the least prone to snapping is the reverse order of the above !! As with all these tasks, just take your time and ensure you only tap a little at any one stage before removing the tap and cleaning. It is the swarf that builds the pressure up and by clearing it on a regular basis ensures your tap / die cuts effectively, lasts longer and is not encountering undue pressure. Squirting WD40, if you do not have cutting fluid, as you progress helps to keep the cutting area clean and lubricates the cutting edge of the tap & die. The essential point is that when you start cutting or recovering a thread you must ensure the tap is absolutely square on - if not you will damage either the thread or cut an off the line thread........................ you do not want that 😭 !! Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 yes please let us know how you get on with the replacement hinges as its always good to know about the quality of repro parts👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 11 minutes ago, johny said: yes please let us know how you get on with the replacement hinges as its always good to know about the quality of repro parts👍 Certainly will and thank you for your assistance. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark powell Posted October 11, 2019 Report Share Posted October 11, 2019 I also bought the US Pro tap and die set, bad move, the SAE national fine thread does not match my UNF fittings. Bought this instead, much better. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soba-22pc-UNF-Tap-Die-Set-for-Model-Engineers-Classic-Cars-Thread/331583755156?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 11, 2019 Report Share Posted October 11, 2019 Thanks for the info. I got my cheap set to, as mentioned, remove some broken bolt remains, never having used such a kit before. They were intended as a disposible, one job set, but are still in one piece (so to speak) with no damage. Your advice as to how to use them may prolong the life of the kit for some time.. thanks. I may replace on a one to one basis with better steel,as each piece breaks/blunts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 11, 2019 Report Share Posted October 11, 2019 9 minutes ago, mark powell said: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soba-22pc-UNF-Tap-Die-Set-for-Model-Engineers-Classic-Cars-Thread/331583755156?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Yes, that's a decent enough basic set to get you started. Remember that if you need to tackle new holes on more resilient metal, then you will need to purchase specific HSS to do the job as carbon steel will wear quickly. Regards. Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted October 11, 2019 Report Share Posted October 11, 2019 I notice that the seller also carries a range of hss taps. Useful to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted October 11, 2019 Report Share Posted October 11, 2019 Hello All These people do a whole range and have been in business for years. https://www.tracytools.com/ Plus just buy the sizes and quality you need! Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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