Distributor endfloat

[Ian Cooper]

I've been reading the official workshop and Haines manuals for the GT6 but I find the description of the process for determining and setting the endfloat is not very clear, for instance there is no real clarity regarding the gasket in the calculation, my question is:

Has anyone come across a clear, definitive account and if so where can I find it?? 

[Pete Lewis]

drop the assy in the drive, if theres a gap measure with feelers  between hsg and block face and add up to 0.010" to give up to 0.007" lift /float you want anything ... but not  pre load 

Pete

[Ian Cooper]

Hi. thanks for the reply Pete.

So no 1/2" internal diameter washer malarkey then?

Just to be absolutely clear Is that add up to 0.010" as well as the gasket, or does the gasket dimension not matter?

 

Cheers

Ian

[Pete Lewis]

you need  the pedestal to sit higher than the base face so there is some end float on the gear the spec is approx  0.003" to 0.007"  so include gasket and anything else 

eg if the pedestal sits flush adding the gasket gives you the gap or there abouts .  the pedestal must not trap the gear and hold it down , stick finger down hole and check for a small amount of gear  lift when bolted down   too much float will cause a nice rattle.

Pete

[Ian Cooper]

Thanks Pete.

Makes sense without all the mystery.

Actually I read a similar thing on an American forum but I'm afraid I find some of their ideas a little cavalier,  now you have said, more or less, the same I'm reassured .

Cheers

Ian

[Nigel Clark]

Pre-load is very bad, and can wear out the skew gear that drives the distributor from the camshaft quickly. So as Pete says, avoid pre-load at all costs.

Too much end float will allow timing to flutter, you can see this with a strobe. It will lead to rough tick over and poor performance.

If in doubt, start with too much end float and cautiously adjust down.

Nigel

[Gadgetman]

All should be made clear hear. His videos are very helpful