DrKai Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 I can see a number of places with the longer studs required to fit the lowering block for mk1, and non-rotoflex mk3. However only standard studs for a rotoflex mark 3. Is there any difference between them? If so does anyone know where to source the longer studs for a rotoflex mk3? Thanks Kai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 Usually, Rotoflex GT6s sit low already, sometimes too low in my experience. I would question the reason for wanting a lowering block on a Rotoflex GT6. Maybe it's just me but the back of my car was always low, never needed lowering. Perhaps I need to diet?! Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qu1ckn1ck Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 With a new rear spring my rotoflex Mk3 was too high at the back so we fitted longer studs with a lowering block. The studs came from Canley but we had to use a die nut to extend the threads further down the studs as otherwise they would not clamp on the Mk3 spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 I used some head studs from a spitfire engine on a car..... On my herald I bought bolts, which required careful measurement. They were needed as there was inadequate clearance above the spring to get studs in (courier spring plus 1" lowering block -awesome handling) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 1 hour ago, clive said: I used some head studs from a spitfire engine on a car..... On my herald I bought bolts, which required careful measurement. They were needed as there was inadequate clearance above the spring to get studs in (courier spring plus 1" lowering block -awesome handling) I've got lowering block+longer studs on my Spitfire and have to remember to roll the spring top forwards after sliding it across the car and before seating it so I can drop the studs through the spring box. There's then (just about) enough room to giggle everything in to position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 like Clive i had long studs with a courier spring and 1" block but made a rubber cover for the tunnel as the studs fouled the orig tin cover plate which does made a good racket you dont need . pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKai Posted November 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 Thanks. I'll get on to Canleys. Yes looking at it I expect some modification to the cover plate will be required Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 Bill at rarebits4classics made some from abs deeper to accommodate the long studs he sells some part on FB but not seen these i used a piece of truck mud flap screwed down to seal the aperture on my Vit6. pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted November 6, 2019 Report Share Posted November 6, 2019 I managed to keep the standard cover with a (I think 3/4") lowering block but did need some creativity. Fit longer studs. Fit nylock. Hacksaw studs flush with top of nylocks. ...run around on a Saturday trying to find somewhere to buy pair of 3/8" UNF half nuts so you can remove the studs the next time you need to remove the spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now