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  • 5 months later...

Got to agree with Pete Mathew, i would use fibreglass resin and matting. Don't use filler as it's porous. Although just seen Rob's post.... It really depends on how far you want to go, either way the looks will be the same. 

Tony.

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10 minutes ago, ahebron said:

Did you have much lead around the rear hatch?
My deceased Mk1 2.5PI Estate gave the panel beater a shock when he tried to weld and the back of the car melted.

The back had quite a few rust bubbles , luckily apart from a couple of small holes it was just surface rust. I treated the rust and filled and flattened. Unless it is structural or needs the strength I try to keep the welder away, you can damage more with the heat . Distortion and fire can happen quickly, unlike at work I don't have a fire watch.

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12 minutes ago, Bordfunker said:

Matt, is that a metallic colour?

Karl

Yes, colbolt blue. a pain to paint, very thick going on but it does level out. The clear is thin but I had to use a 1.2 needle setup to get it to go on wet!. Will be rubbing down and give it another wet clear coat before refinishing.

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4 hours ago, Bordfunker said:

Looking good!

Is the Cobalt Blue the original colour?

Karl

No, its a metallic but close to its original colour. If you put the original colour next to it this has sparkle. Being a metallic it has a clear coat where I believed originally it would have been a solid colour. The car had been resprayed before, that was slightly lighter than original. I have managed to give it a better spray than the last blow over the previous one. Also I have delt with the rust issues. Its far from perfect and have a few places to touch up, one place is the front of the windscreen bonnet grill where the buffer caught the windscreen washer and rubbed the paint away on the corner. Various other bits where the masking paper was need cleaning up and some thin strips covered to ease masking. Although due to being a close match they don't jump out. 

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