iana Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 I have stripped the front suspension on the vitesse - the PO had used grease in the trunnion and I want it back to oil, however, 2 issues to sort. The trunnion bolt is siezed in the tube, currently soaking in penetrating oil but will remove with a saw. Now removed after a generous spray of penetrating oil and a robust tap with a hammer. The more difficult issue is a snapped bolt (the bolt that holds the back plate to the steering arm) Is it a case of drilling the bolt out or is there a threaded section on the link that I need to be wary of? Also is this a special grade bolt? Ive got a pair of replacement trunnions (stanpart stamped) but want to put a bead of glue round the plate - whats recommended? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 there is no thread in the upright for the 4 main thro' bolts just nuts on the stg arm end , so a sheared should punch through cap /plug sealing Araldite or solder seem the most used Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 That’s not quite right Pete...... it’s true that there are no threads in the vertical link, but the end hole in the steering arm is tapped and this is the one that tends to give trouble. Can be drilled and re-tapped with care..... Standard high tensile bolts (S, US grade 5). Don’t use stainless. Nick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 2 hours ago, iana said: The more difficult issue is a snapped bolt (the bolt that holds the back plate to the steering arm) Is it a case of drilling the bolt out or is there a threaded section on the link that I need to be wary of? Also is this a special grade bolt? If it's a Vitesse and it's the bolt I'm thinking of, that holds a backplate like the one in the illustration then there are four, same as the GT6, that screw into the vertical link unless Pete and I are thinking of entirely different bolts? It's threaded so drill out very carefully and retap, but you can replace with anything including good stainless - they're not structural; remember to use a lock-washer on each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted December 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 Its the bolt in the centre of the blue (the head snapped off when I was removing the back plate) I’m guessing it’s seized in the arm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 That one is a through bolt. No tapping. Heat and (controlled) violence required...... Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 That was my thinking , as it needs a nut Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 Plenty of those round here... If that's just a bolt seized in the arm, not into threads, then plenty of heat and try to drive it out. Is there much left to play with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 Will need some heat I think..... takes a fair amount of force to twist a 3/8” bolt off so clearly well stuck! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted December 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 OK I need to go and buy a heat source, will a standard blow torch be sufficient? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 Colin when you say it’s non structural it takes the full force of the steering being transmitted to the vertical link to turn the car and on full lock could be substantial. I’m with Nick I wouldn’t use stainless could get brittle with stress’s transmitted if the head of the bolt is off could a grip wrench mole or similar be applied to the threaded end and heave. Alternatively a tap! on the arm might clear it from the vertical link and maybe the arm would clear and pull out from the arm I f it won’t pull through/out saw the bolt at the link to arm interface once the bond Between the link and arm is broken and loose. at worst replacement steering arms aren’t hard to get second hand peter T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 I use this blow torch from Aldi My technique is to heat up and then apply WD40 , A small fire might occur but nothing serious . You might need to complete this process a few times . Then use a copper hammer . Works for me especially if a screw thread is involved . I used this technique to remove the the drain bolt with the appropriate socket on my Vitesse petrol tank . All petrol removed and thoroughly clean Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 Yes. a little heat, can often/sometimes, go a long way. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted December 15, 2019 Report Share Posted December 15, 2019 16 hours ago, Peter Truman said: Colin when you say it’s non structural it takes the full force of the steering being transmitted to the vertical link to turn the car and on full lock could be substantial. I’m with Nick I wouldn’t use stainless could get brittle with stress’s transmitted THAT'S because it's NOT the bolt I was thinking of - when the OP stated it held the back plate on, then I assumed it was one of the four small bolts that held the brake backplate to the vertical link, as in early Heralds (and indeed I the TR7 I'm currently working on). This was cleared up in later posts (when Ian posted a photo), that it's a through-bolt to the steering arm. So you're correct that I wouldn't use stainless in this application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted December 15, 2019 Report Share Posted December 15, 2019 Thanks Colin it’s always better when there’s a picture. There’s a tremendous force due to the tight turning circle of the Herald/Vitesse steering. we put a sacrificial seats on a 900 mm dia double jaw alligator valve (like a mouth and jaw) we bolted the seat on with S/S bolts they fatigued in 3months and the seats fell off. Peter T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iana Posted December 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2019 Thanks all a good soaking with pentrating oil and the spacer washers freed up, left to soak overnight and a gentle heat with a borrowed blow torch and a robust tap and it started to move. It now needs a good clean and paint before re-assembly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 15, 2019 Report Share Posted December 15, 2019 Aha, a birmingham screwdriver always seems to work Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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