Jump to content

front suspension overhaul


iana
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have stripped the front suspension on the vitesse - the PO had used grease in the trunnion and I want it back to oil, however, 2 issues to sort.

The trunnion bolt is siezed in the tube, currently soaking in penetrating oil but will remove with a saw. Now removed after a generous spray of penetrating oil and a robust tap with a hammer.

The more difficult issue is a snapped bolt (the bolt that holds the back plate to the steering arm) Is it a case of drilling the bolt out or is there a threaded section on the link that I need to be wary of? Also is this a special grade bolt?

Ive got a pair of replacement trunnions (stanpart stamped) but want to put a bead of glue round the plate - whats recommended?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That’s not quite right Pete...... it’s true that there are no threads in the vertical link, but the end hole in the steering arm is tapped and this is the one that tends to give trouble. Can be drilled and re-tapped with care.....

Standard high tensile bolts (S, US grade 5). Don’t use stainless.

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, iana said:

The more difficult issue is a snapped bolt (the bolt that holds the back plate to the steering arm) Is it a case of drilling the bolt out or is there a threaded section on the link that I need to be wary of? Also is this a special grade bolt?

If it's a Vitesse and it's the bolt I'm thinking of, that holds a backplate like the one in the illustration then there are four, same as the GT6, that screw into the vertical link unless Pete and I are thinking of entirely different bolts? It's threaded so drill out very carefully and retap, but you can replace with anything including good stainless - they're not structural; remember to use a lock-washer on each.

vitesse.jpg.fc0d82dab7c5c4ace11b34af597d49e7.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Colin when you say it’s non structural it takes the full force of the steering being transmitted to the vertical link to turn the car and on full lock could be substantial. I’m with Nick I wouldn’t use stainless could get brittle with stress’s transmitted

if the head of the bolt is off could a grip wrench mole or similar be applied to the threaded end and heave. Alternatively a tap! on the arm might clear it from the vertical link and maybe the arm would clear and pull out from the arm I f it won’t pull through/out saw the bolt at the link to arm interface once the bond Between the link and arm is broken and loose.

at worst replacement steering arms aren’t hard to get second hand

peter T

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use this blow torch from Aldi 

 

My technique is to heat up and then apply WD40 ,   A small fire might occur but nothing serious . You might need to complete this process a few times . Then use a copper hammer . Works for me especially if a screw thread  is involved . I used this technique to remove the the drain bolt with the appropriate socket on my Vitesse petrol tank . All petrol removed and thoroughly clean 

Paul 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Peter Truman said:

Colin when you say it’s non structural it takes the full force of the steering being transmitted to the vertical link to turn the car and on full lock could be substantial. I’m with Nick I wouldn’t use stainless could get brittle with stress’s transmitted

THAT'S because it's NOT the bolt I was thinking of - when the OP stated it held the back plate on, then I assumed it was one of the four small bolts that held the brake backplate to the vertical link, as in early Heralds (and indeed I the TR7 I'm currently working on). This was cleared up in later posts (when Ian posted a photo), that it's a through-bolt to the steering arm. So you're correct that I wouldn't use stainless in this application.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Colin it’s always better when there’s a picture. There’s a tremendous force due to the tight turning circle of the Herald/Vitesse steering.

we put a sacrificial seats on a 900 mm dia double jaw alligator valve (like a mouth and jaw) we bolted the seat on with  S/S bolts they fatigued in 3months and the seats fell off.

Peter T

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...