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rocker box mayonnaise and breather


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Just found some oil/water mush on oil filler cap and on rocker box cover (GT6 Mk 3). I have trouble convincing myself that this is a head gasket problem. The rocker box  breather pipe just vents to air (the road!) and the two HS6 carbs are connected together where I would normally expect the breather to be connected to. Is it possible that this is related to my mayonnaise problem? A friend's  elan shows the same characteristics, especially in the cold weather we have at the moment. Is it just condensation?The car has minimal mileage since previous owner had the engine and head (stage 2) restored and checked for leaks, cracks and distortion - but that was several years ago, and I have only driven it 4 times , and only short distances, about 15 miles each time. Haven't yet checked if there is water in the oil, but dipstick is just oil.

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It is possible that as you admit you don't drive it often and only for short distances the mayo is just condensation.

Wipe it off and then give it a good long drive.

When I got my 13/60 it also had mayo like yours it was simply due to the car not having been used much by the previous owner.

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Thanks for that - BUT(!) also discovered that the diff is leaking too much for a long journey, and that's a job which i think is above my pay grade. Anyone know where, near Ash Green in Surrey, there might be a classic car mechanic who can fix that for me for some (probably a lot of) beer tokens?

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yes its normall just needs a good drive get all up to full temperature and gives the oil a good heat through .

as for these ideas being head gasket thats most unlikely to ever show these sort of old ideas about oil in water and such , unless its had a really catastrophic failure  you get water in the combustion  and extra steam in the exhaust , or a rapidly overfilling header tank and unknown lose of coolant 

combustion pressures are varsty higher  ( 1000psi ) than the waater jacket so gas in the coolant is the easy route , coolant in the bore overnight  when left to cool and then  

the 7/13psi in the coolant seeps into a bore 

getting mayo in the rocker zone or milky oil is rare to happen 

so give her a good blast and heat it through , if unkown a decent oil change so you have a good starting point and get the smile 

where is the diff leaking ???

 

Pete

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Don't know where the oil leak is - clean it up, drive, return, oil on diff. Too much to ignore. Doesn't leak when standing. Suspect either offside drive shaft or prop shaft. Haven't contemplated taking it off, i'm not good enough, especially when I read phrases like "special tool", "end float", "pre-load" and so on. Somewhat embarrassed to admit this in the company of grown-ups and experts!

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You don't need end float for side shafts; it's only four allen-key headed bolts that require re-tightening on reassembly. I've just finished two and they're simple enough. A spring clip holds the bearing on; it'll press off very simply then there's just an oil seal to push out. Reassembly takes minutes. I don't think (needs a second opinion!) that you even need to take the diff off. If it's the front (pinion) seal that's a bit more complicated. It might be just a blocked breather; reach up in round, just above the rear bush, and you'll find a split pin - jiggle it about and free up the hole it sits in to let pressure out as you drive and things warm up.

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agree all seals are accessible without the need to remove or upset any settings

to get at the screws colin mentions you do need to undo the drive shaft flanges as the socket capscrews are accessed thro'the flange bolt holes 

getting the shaft off its bearing is either a doddle with a vice and mallet of you may chase it all round the garage , they can be a bit tight 

front prop seal is easy to remove , drop the prop and undo the coupling nut . pull the coupling off and dig the old seal out , if the coupling nut has a split pin re fit  nut to the same place 

if its a nyloc refit to the same place , ie mark it so you now where , then refitting keeps all settings unfuddled   you cant mess up a castle nut as the bearing spacer is fixed /solid , nyloc nuts have a bearing spcer that collapses on tightening the nut so thats more important you dont ever overtighten on refit   this is all good DIY stuf you can ask on here if you run into trouble   ask away ,  a few tools and the job can save you ££££s 

go on  get to know your car this is the best way .  

Pete

 

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I visit to your local TSSC group (see the Area heading on the TSSC Home Page) will/should provide extra eyes on the diff problem and maybe even practical assistance.  As Pete and Colin have inferred this is not highly specialised classic car mechanic stuff, but do have a good read of the Workshop Manual (WSM) before you start.  Ideal week coming up to do it given the weather forecast!

Dick 

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Thanks again for all your help.

Alright, alright, nag, nag, nag!.......... I'll check the breather, and if necessary break out the halfords tool set and have a look!

Was going to Stoneleigh tomorrow, but may have wasted the £11entrance fee. Short of a Sherman tank, I think it's going to be tricky. Obviously wouldn't take the triumph - leaking diff would probably be the least of my problems.

Thanks again

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