Jump to content

Clutch stuck disengaged


VixenPPP
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi..I have a 1970 Vitesse convertible. She has not been run for three years or so. Pleased with my progress so far I've hit a hurdle. The old slave cylinder was completely siezed in the extended position. Having removed this the operating lever has no spring resistance and can be easily moved manually.It appears to be stuck in the disengaged position. Any advice would be appreciated.....Neil

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the withdrawl lever is free to travel between a fully off to up against the diaphragm fingers with no real resistance if the slave is operational it does have a weak 

return spring inside , but with slave 'off' the lever is a rattle around .

its unlikely the diaphragm has also stuck in the disengaged position  have you tried to give any drive , ie even just with the starter ??

then  the  disc may be stuck /rusted to the flywheel due to lack of use .  and you get drive regardless of what the pressure plate is doing 

Pete

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its strange that the slave is stuck fully out, do you know if the pedal was left wedged in the operated position? It can also happen when bleeding the system or if something fails in the clutch mechanism - in either case the slave piston travels further than its normal range of movement and so enters a part of the bore that isnt normally used. This area may well have suffered some corrosion (being the lowest point its where any moisture in the oil will collect) and the piston gets stuck....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks to you both for your replies. Yes I think it's strange. Looked again this morning and the piston in the old slave is fully out. It has siezed, lots of white corrosive stuff in the area. I can only think at some point I've half forced an already defective clutch/slave and its seized when extended. I've cranked it round on the starter, in first gear and there is no drive to the rear wheels. There is 1 1/2 to 2 inch free movement on the operating lever. 

Thanks again..Neil

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its looking more and more like the pedal was wedged down for a long period (not unusual as this hopefully stops the clutch from sticking on) and now not only the slave corroded in the operated position but also the thrust bearing carrier in the bell housing.....

I think youre really going to have to get the gearbox out to be sure everythings ok. This isnt as bad a job as on many cars because the box is small and pretty light (heavier with OD) and comes out through the inside of the car. The seats have to be removed and it can be done solo but better with a helper, certainly for putting it back in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

free movement doesnt make any real clues as it will go backwards toward the gearbox with no resistance as its all free to go back and forth on thefront cover tube 

from fully back to up against the fingers with no more than finger effort , thats not what happens when operated by the slave 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When helping a friend with an odd noise, were were able to see into the bellhousing and (carefully) move the release bearing carrier with a long screwdriver. So it may be worth doing similar to hopefully see exactly what is going on? a mirror on stick gizmo may help too, but if the fingers are all seized "in" then it will be a new clutch kit...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All your replies are much appreciated. Looks like a new clutch. On the face of it seems the most difficult bit is mating the box back up to the bell housing. I'm wondering if it's worth hiring a foldable engine hoist. It has the overdrive unit.

Regards..Neil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never used a hoist for a gearbox change. Jack under the sump (with a plank of wood to spread the load!!) and passenger seat out, the gearbox can be manoeuvred out and back in by hand. Two people makes it a lot easier but it's just possible for one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a hoist but then I've always had a big girder in all of my garages over the years from which to hang one. The only exception was my GT6 and I took an awful lot of paint off the gearbox tunnel and the floors manhandling it out. As Rob says, take the seat out - preferably both - but get a large, heavy cardboard box, open it out to a flat sheet and spread it out over the floors; it'll help slide the box across the floors without paint damage. With the alloy bellhousing it's lighter than some but still quite a heavy object to move about, especially for one person. Be careful with the sharp edges of the metal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I use a hoist but then I've always had a big girder in all of my garages

Hmmm.... now I think about it, I can't remember the last time I took a gearbox out of a convertible. The GT6 I've done, and my old Vitesse saloon a few times, but the Spitfire's drivetrain was fitted before the body went back on and I've yet to have to remove Tessa's box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it doesnt need a hoist or jack 

seats out and stg wheel off gives better people access

remove tunnel , remove tin plate cover to expose prop shaft coupling , undo prop bolts

remove air distribution box from under the heater , two nuts and a cable clamp.

poke decent bit of timber ontop of  chassis under g box. , 

disconnect battery  and remover starter motor 

remove slave cyl. and speedo cable    leave gear lever in place as a hand hold 

undo all bolts/studs /nuts around bell hsg.

lift rear of g box to clear mounts and couplings  etc  , support sump on wood and jack .

pull box rearwards and may be rotate to get through the aperture.

a long bit of timer to use ans a lever under the box can help with the wiggle weight 

refit is reverse of  but fit some long studs in the top back of the block to assist alignment

lift g box and engine   to get a nice parallel gap  between hsg  and rear plate, eye it up  use any thing , bit of wood to act as a gauge to sight all is II  not  I/

you must align with dummy shaft or home made dowel the disc and flywheel spigot .on the  fitting the new clutch

get a genuine workshop  manual  on your wish list  from club shop or elsewhwere

well something like that 

Pete

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And when you go to put the gearbox back in, check that the pushrod for the release bearing carrier hasn't fallen inside the bellhousing. I only spotted this after I had done up all the bolts and had to take it all off again.

And, and, while you have it all apart why not check the condition of the stupid pin that acts as the hinge between the carrier arm and the bellhousing. This little blighter can fall out and stop the clutch working. That's another gearbox out job.

Adrian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Adrian Cooper said:

And when you go to put the gearbox back in, check that the pushrod for the release bearing carrier hasn't fallen inside the bellhousing. I only spotted this after I had done up all the bolts and had to take it all off again.

And, and, while you have it all apart why not check the condition of the stupid pin that acts as the hinge between the carrier arm and the bellhousing. This little blighter can fall out and stop the clutch working. That's another gearbox out job.

Adrian

I did have one years ago on a Vitesse where that stupid pivot pin had worn its way right through the carrier operating arm! It gave similar symptoms in that the slave extended, the arm moved but no clutch operation, however of course the clutch was permanently engaged rather than disengaged as in this case.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi all...Here's a progress report on my 1970 vitesse convertible. Your ' hunch was right Pete Lewis. Stuck the new slave on and it worked ! I'm sure you know there's a lot more travel on the pedal than the arm. I remember if  I booted it the clutch slips a little. That can wait. I have reasonable confidence about tackling that having learnt quite a bit on here...thanks ! I've replaced master cylinders and calipers and have ' 'good pedal 'on the brakes. Never done that before. She's on axle stands. Tried to start her without success. The fuel pressure seems good. I need to service the carbs and I've ordered an in-line spark tester. She last ran two years ago

Thanks again..Neil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...