Doctor slow Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 I'm stuck getting this castellated nut undone. Am i missing something? I don't have an impact gun, but i've tried with a 3 ft extension on a socket, and it won't budge. Wheels are locked with a firm handbrake, and they're not turning, but neither is this wretched nut! Is there anything else I can try? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 I take it the split pin is out?🤣 No they are very tight and really you need the special tool that bolts on to the flange (see ebay) because otherwise your just winding up the gears/axles and then if you start bashing you could take a gear tooth off. Ive done it with a bodge where I put a couple of the flange bolts back in, tightened up, and then use a flat ring spanner on one of the bolts wedged against the other to hold the flange while undoing the castellated nut. Even then its tight so you risk distorting the flange and/or getting a hernia.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 I had the same problem with the pinion nut on my Scimitar GTE a few years ago, so I feel your pain. Have you already dosed it repeatedly with penetrating oil, Plus Gas or the like (WD40 isn't much help with stubborn nuts)? Here are three suggestions that helped me: - Trying to tighten a fraction before undoing can sometimes help. - Use the socket with a shorter extension (say about 12 inches) and hit the end of extension bar hard with a big hammer to start the nut by shocking it. - Last resort, try a bit of heat by playing a blowlamp carefully over the nut. Good luck. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted March 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 Thanks for the replies. I've tried tightening it, but that won't budge either. As Johny said, I am a bit concerned that if i bash it, I may damage the internals, and Using a blowtorch under there seems a bit risky - there's oil and release oil there, and its near enough to the petrol line and tank to be a concern. It's been soaking in release oil for a couple of days. If I can beg, steal or borrow an electric impact gun, is that likely to damage the internals, do you think? Even then, I wonder if an electric one has enough oomph to shift it. Looks like this may be a "pay someone else" jobby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 they are not highly torqued up there are two thread sizes depends on model but 9/16unf 70 /80 lbft 5/8 unf 90/100 lbft all atainable witha decent wrench i agree use two old bolts in the coupling and lock rotation with a lever or whatever, then 2 shreaded wheat will unscrew the nut once the coupling is held firm an impact gun will not damage the internals , ( ie thats what was used on production to do it up in the first place ) as it works of the reaction to the impact there is little action through the a joining mechanisms Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Flinn Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 Can you scrounge a Battery powered Impact Wrench off someone? I'm sure it will undo with one of these, if not there are lots of Battery ones now available at reasonable prices (I've seen them at Lidl/Aldi before too) I'm sure it would come in handy in the future? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 +1 to Gary, an impact wrench will take it off in seconds. Can you get it to a local tyre centre, they'll usually have an air-powered setup and may loosen it for you. I had the same problem with a crank nut on a 1500, days of using breaker bars, force, heat and oil, all overcome in 20 seconds with an air impact gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted March 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 Tomorrow i'll try Pete Lewis's and Johny's trick, if that doesn't work, i'll try scrounging an impact driver. Anyone near Ash Green in Surrey got one? But then I suppose i could splash out - nearly my birthday! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 To save money buy a 240v version plus you will get more Nm for your money . I’ve got a Milwaukee battery impact wrench 110nm and a Lidl 240v 1/2 ins impact wrench 330 nm and under £30 . Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 I never use my air impact wrench. If something is really tight, long bar, apply as much pressure as I can then a hefty whack with a big hammer always seems to work. Other than than that, I use my 1/4" impact driver for nuts/bolts but needs a proper wrench for final tightening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 Can I ask what job you are planning to do on the diff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted March 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 The prop shaft oil seal is leaking. I have been persuaded by this club to replace it myself! Don't mind doing jobs above wheel level, but rolling around on the ground covered in diff oil trying to wrench off this nut is not my idea of fun - at my age I should be watching day-time television in my slippers! I have heard of these lidl impact drivers before. Are they generally available, or was it (they) a one-off? We don't have a lidl near here, so I won't have seen them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 does your local area have any ..volunteers bit too far from me to just pop over i dont see any planned on the lidl promotions these things are ever changing and getting oily helps the wrinkles Ha ! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 I think a nut gun will do it as theyre pretty good. Ive just done my front oil seal (Vitesse) but I took the diff out to do it. I could have done it in situ but as you say it isnt nice and I took the opportunity to give it a flush out (Ive got no drain plug fitted) and install a 1/2" lowering block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted March 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2020 Well, i'm very grateful for all the grown-ups who replied on this problem. Finally did it with a long steel bar bolted across two adjacent holes in the flange, jammed against the chassis. Happiness! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 12, 2020 Report Share Posted March 12, 2020 should have said before, make sure you mark up the flange and nut position relative to shaft plus count number of turns to remove because when it goes back on you dont torque it to what the manual says (unless youre putting in new bearings) but just get the nut back to where it was. This is because you preload new bearings so that as they settle in (and wear) theres no chance of freeplay but later during the life of the bearings you dont want to load em up all over again..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted March 12, 2020 Report Share Posted March 12, 2020 I thought the "mark and return to position" was for the later, collapsible spacer type, with a nyloc nut. The castellated type is shimmed for pre-load and should be tightened to torque (but make sure you don't lose any shims). Or have I misremembered? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted March 12, 2020 Report Share Posted March 12, 2020 I believe you are indeed correct sir! Saying that Id still like to put it back together exactly the same and know where the castellated nut ends up compared with its original position but then I am a nervous type..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 12, 2020 Report Share Posted March 12, 2020 i agree with castle nut you ( should have a solid spacer) this is not affected by a release and re torque just use the same method of holding the coupling whilst re torquing the nut if the torqued up doesnt align a split pin hole turn to the next one but measure the thread dia and check out the correct torque collapsible spacer ( nylock nut) is a different kettle of fish and you must return all to exactly where they came from or fit a new spacer and follow the manual Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted March 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2020 Once again, thanks for ALL the help. Now, having established that we torque it up, let's just confirm that for the Mk 3 GT6 with the castellated nut, the torque should be 70-80 lb ft. Just making sure - belt and braces! New seal and new nut ordered. Getting there, but with help from a very good mechanic friend - ex BA engineer and Elan owner for 40 odd years. When I said that I did it, i have to give him a great deal of credit as well as you lot - if for nothing else, then just for preventing me from losing my marbles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 12, 2020 Report Share Posted March 12, 2020 as i said you need to roughly measure the thread diameter to ensure the correct torque if its 9/16 " its 70 /80 lbft if its 5/8" its 90/100lbft both diameters can use a castle nut unless its been damaged you dont need a new nut , use whats removed Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted March 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2020 oops, sorry misunderstood. Yes, the nut is damaged, and maybe I've bought the wrong nut?! Rimmer bros showed only two, 5/8 for the vitesse 1600 engine, and 9/16 for the vitesse 2 litre - I assumed the 9/16 would be the correct one for the 2 litre GT6 as well. and it was about 8 quid as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 13, 2020 Report Share Posted March 13, 2020 canley show as castleated as 5/8" at £8 you should not guess ...measure it https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-rear-axle-centre-details https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mki/ii-rear-axle easy way to gauge the diameter use a 9/16" af or 5/8"af open ended spanner pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted March 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2020 Having to reopen this topic, i'm afraid. Done everything according to the book and all your kind help, but took it for a drive after completion, and the oil leak is still there, exactly the same as before (except the oil is new!). Firstly i should say that the shaft of the flange, although not shiny and new was not pitted or scored, nor was the seating of the oil seal in the diff. Now, my question, before I start all over again, concerns the origin of this leak. There is no leak while the car is stationary, and there is no evidence of the leak where the flange fits into the diff, viewed from the front. The oil is leaking from behind the ....not sure what it's called - the cross member that the front of the diff is bolted onto. Is that where I should expect it to leak from if the oil seal or a worn flange is still the culprit, or is there some other cause? Help, please, before I torch the thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 17, 2020 Report Share Posted March 17, 2020 The front pinion oil seal should prevent leaks from here in normal use, so if you've replaced yours properly then that should have cured this problem - however - I remember replacing these before then leaving the diff on a floor prior to fitting and finding the oil had still run out past the seal, due to the slight downward angle of the front end. It did not run out when fitted level or in use, but I'm wondering that if there is still potential for leaks in this area even with a new seal, is it possible that yours has been overfilled, and will stop leaking once the oil drops down to the proper level? Is your breather pin on the top clear, so that pressure is not blowing the oil out? Just a couple of thoughts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now