Mjit Posted March 18, 2020 Report Share Posted March 18, 2020 I take it the theory is you snip the locking wire, unscrew the pin bolt, then the clutch leave cross shaft slided out of the gearbox, with the clutch release fork dropping in to the bell housing as it goes? And not that you snip the locking wire to discover the pin bolt has sheared at a point where it's still interfearing between the shaft and fork? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 18, 2020 Report Share Posted March 18, 2020 You are correct about the theory. Practice quite often matches your experience though. You’ll find a fair bit about this on the forums as it afflicts saloons, TRs and manual Stags. Can’t remember if there is enough swing available to be able to drill through from behind and punch the remains out. Sacrificing the shaft and cutting it into sections is the quick and dirty method. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 18, 2020 Report Share Posted March 18, 2020 most have a small hole drilled in ready to insert a pin punch to drift out the sheared stuck in end bit https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7/t/5d01953336ef080001779c4b/1560384820196/Removing+Broken+Clutch+Fork+Pins.pdf https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7/t/5d0194e7dd6f4f0001b1f36e/1560384744912/Clutch+Shaft.pdf Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted March 19, 2020 Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 The best you can hope for is persistant wiggling and tapping and the stub drops out. I usually give up after an hour or so. Assess whether the shaft or fork is the more worn and cut the worst one with a grinder. if you cut the shaft you can the drill the hole in back of fork and punch stub out. If you cut fork then you can rotatbshaft 180 degrees and drill hole in situ and save shaft. fit new cross shaft bushes whilst you are in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 19, 2020 Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 have a careful look for the hole before you attack anything mines a 74 2000 and its got the hole rimmers and others sell a supposed uprated dowel bolt Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted March 19, 2020 Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 For the TR clutch fork it is always recommended to fit an extra bolt/roll pin etc at 90 degrees to the taper pin in the middle of the fork body. On my 4A I purchased a fork from the TRShop back in the 2000's that had a snu fitting hole up inside the for to receive the end of the taper pin. I have not seen a new one like it since. The taper pin lasts forever as it is in double shear. On my TR4 the internal hole (clearance drill size for the taper pin thread) was too big for the end of the of the taper pin so I bushed the hole and turned the end of the taper pin down into a parallel nose that fitted the bush nicely - this put the pin in double shear. But it really is easier to fit the extra bolt/roll pin. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 19, 2020 Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 35 minutes ago, thescrapman said: fit new cross shaft bushes whilst you are in there. I discovered James Paddocks (probably others) sell a double width bush. Handy as my sprint box was suffering, the case was being eaten by the shaft, but the double width bush has saved it. In the depths of my iffy memory, somebody posted about teh need for the tapered pin to be a good fit on the fork and the shaft, and some are not, leading to quick failure. It was quite in-depth, but not sure which forum it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerH Posted March 19, 2020 Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 Hi Clive, Indeed. Any slack in the taper fit will convert the shear force into a tensile force = snap. The pins are more than strong enough when in shear. The structure is a single shear mechanism - supported only at the bottom of the pin. If it was in double shear then any slack becomes less important. As the pins, the fork and the shaft are all made in different countries then it is not surprising they are slack (slack = measured by foot/pedal pressure not by hand) Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 19, 2020 Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 the buckeye i listed good pics of alternative additional pins and bolt ideas you can follow ive repaired 3 big boxes recently all 3 had sheared dowel bolts and the hole to punch it out , takes a good few whacks but it works pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mjit Posted March 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 Meh! No hole in my fork - and looks like drilling one through from the threaded side before fitting would be easy...but from the back after fitting a real bugger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted March 19, 2020 Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 Not that bad from the back save a shaft after cutting forks, done it twice recently. unlike Pete I have not seen any predrilled with a hole, had over a dozen boxes through my hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 19, 2020 Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 its the virus holes are on shortage pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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