Tom Posted April 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 Hello again Fellas, been distracted for a few days as my daughter wanted a new chicken coop and run building!! Back on the Herald tomorrow, I going to put the flywheel, new clutch ( managed to get a 9 spring one Canley ) gearbox and starter motor in tomorrow. I've deglazed the flywheel, I'll turn a clutch centering tool tonight to line up the friction plate. I have two new rear gearbox mounts. My flywheel bolts did not have any locking tabs so I will make those too. Any tips with reassembly apart from care full alignment to avoid bending/stressing anything Tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 12, 2020 Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 Flywheel bolt locking tabs are listed by Canleys as NLA, which may be why they didn't come with any... Last time I checked suppliers were recommending a superseded bolt which appears to be fitted with no locking tab, part number 138526. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted April 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 I did see Rimmers were selling stretch bolts but I figured reusing the old ones with some remade locking tabs would be fine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 12, 2020 Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 i would just reuse the exiting bolts adding some loctite to hold them, tab washers are not the best and in many applications not now used having a softish tab washer on a hard face of a flywheel , means the tab can deform and torque is lost . if the bolts were torqued to yield then they must not be reused but that not the design criteria of Herald engineering Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted April 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 OK Pete, I did wonder if the material used should deform only slightly at the bolt face friction would be lost, loctite it is!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted April 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2020 Looks like I missed something...... I turned up a tool to line up the friction plate. The end of the spigot is pretty much bang on 12mm, when I put this in the spigot support bush in the end of the crank it was like chucking a sausage up Oxford street! Seems my spigot bush is extremely worn out, measures at around 13.5mm, I'm presuming it should be a snug fit on the end of the gearbox input spigot. I wonder if this was one of the causes of the judder and broken spring in the friction plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 13, 2020 Report Share Posted April 13, 2020 yes it will contribute if the old bush is tight in the crank make a punch to fit the worn bore (or close) ( even timber ) fill cavity with grease , fit punch and give it a whack witha club hammer and the bush pops out , with grease all over you best shirt Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted April 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2020 Hydraulic punch, like it! Bush was also a loose fit in the crank contributing to slop! Annoying as nothing can be fitted until it arrives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 14, 2020 Report Share Posted April 14, 2020 they dont do a lot of work .. makes you wonder if it ever had the correct one fitted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted April 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 Yes, much like the inner needle bearing on the drive shafts it's more of a support. One more question, is it normal for the splined input shaft to have a little bit of up/down play in it? ie. It can be waggled slightly. Tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 15, 2020 Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 yes quite normal its only a single ball race so has some waggle even with the mainshaft spigot they both have some side wiggle till all ends are supported then the locations are confined in flywheel spigot/ ball race, / mainshaft spigot/ ball race / tail shaft bearing / once all together no real slop detectable and if box is off its not wise to stand it up ended on the clutch hsg, as any debris stuck in the residual oil will sink into the input shaft race and wreck it Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 15, 2020 Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 Yes there's always some waggle as it's supported by a ball race bearing and, very close to it, a loose fit needle roller. However there definitely shouldn't be any actual radial movement in the main brg... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 15, 2020 Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 I love it when answers match! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 15, 2020 Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 we must stop meeting like this Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted April 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 Thanks fellas, puts my mind at rest. I can't detect any radial/bearing play just a little bit of waggle. The box was always quiet and shifted smoothly so hopefully it's a goodie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Well chaps the chassis paint should be dry so the plan tomorrow is to fit the following, 1. Clutch ( I have an alignment tool ) 2. Diff ( new seals fitted ) 3. Propshaft ( New uj's and has been balanced ) 4. Spring ( really done anything to it, would it be a good idea to clean and oil it? ) 5. Driveshafts/trunnions ( new bearings, seals and uj's fitted ) Think I could muddle my way through, I have haynes and factory manuals but any pearls of wisdom from you fellas would be great. Rear tub is off so no access issues. Also I need to order some gear and diff oil, I presume regular EP90 GL4 is fine for both the box and diff, I haven't bought any straight EP90 for ages as the car has been off the road for so long! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 i was of the thought oiling springs just attracts road dirt and the pads and leaves get ground away, , if you oil it , wrap it ep90 GL4 is right some are EP80/90 never a GL5 others have recommended a 140 see the posts on diff drain plugs for more idea's Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: i was of the thought oiling springs just attracts road dirt and the pads and leaves get ground away, , if you oil it , wrap it Plumbers grease-impregnated tape is good stuff; wrap it tightly and it will stiffen the spring too. Just fasten the ends with cable ties or, even better, wire twists. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 The water authorities use a product called Denso Tape to protect buried fittings a Denso putty is used to fill gaps and sharp corners so the tape doesn’t tear. In air I think it might dry out, I used it in joining the front and rear body tubs, bit messy but better than that originally used, after 10 years still soft. I have a few yards left around 14in wide, gawd it’s messy. Pete T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 55 minutes ago, Peter Truman said: The water authorities use a product called Denso Tape That's the stuff! I bought a few rolls a while back, coated the springs in grease then wound the tape over it tightly round the springs starting at the edge of the diff mount right out to the eyes. Squishy stuff but it keeps the springs taut and rust-free where it covers. The alternative was rather expensive leather gaiters which more or less do the same job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 if springs were supposed to be lubricated there would be some means of achieving , they work well in dry rusty mode , after 50 yrs its a bit late to feel they need an oil and a wrap pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted April 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 OK chaps, to be fair it actually in not bad condition think I'll just clean it up, it's got a greasy film on it, maybe waxoil but it's clean enough and was being a perfectly good spring when last used. I just wondered if there was any maintenance I could do whilst it's off and accessible. I'll go down the if it ain't broke don't fix it route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 Why is the word 'front' always at the back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 I had the same problem with my Vitesse spring Front was behind the vertical bolt/robot so do I put the spring in with Front at the rear but but reading the correct way. very confusing. Peter T 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 24, 2020 Report Share Posted April 24, 2020 I feel we decided that the word front was marked on the spring as it stopped anyone asking which way round , when its a straight spring and in the end front or back was of no significance other than if marked up ............it saved a question back to the days of unskilled operators on the assy line Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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